This is a discussion on Estelle driveshafts/diff within the RWD Skodas and others forums, part of the Skoda Model Discussion Area category; I have fitted a weber carb and KandN filter to my estelle which gave me loads more power, took it ...
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| Briskodian Join Date: Mar 2007
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| I have fitted a weber carb and KandN filter to my estelle which gave me loads more power, took it for a spin round the block and didnt even make it home before I lost all drive. I pulled off a junction and lost drive with it in gear. When I got towed home there was a very loud rattling coming from the rear. The clutch is engaging fine and the speedo goes up but the car aint going anywhere! What have I done??!? ![]() |
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| | #2 |
| Hairy Yeti Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Newport Pagnell
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| Sounds like a bust CV joint.
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| | #3 |
| Briskodian Join Date: May 2006 Location: Normally somewhere in Scotland!
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| ...or the diff's gone (but the CV joint's more likely). |
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| | #4 |
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| The diff seems fine, iv take of the axel and the little connecting noddule has snapped into a number of pieces, which would be fine as I have i new one to hand but the middle of the old one is firmly wedged in place. I have tried bashing it but it aint going nowhere! ![]() |
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| | #5 | |
| Briskodian Join Date: May 2006 Location: Hayling Island, Hampshire
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| Quote:
surely if a cv joint was broke, it would still move a little does the speedo work when the car is being towed?? i would suggest that you've sheered off the rivets that hold the diff casing to the crownwheel ![]()
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| | #6 |
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| Well, if Tom's right and the speedo drive's off the crownwheel, then that's still turning. If the car's not moving then it's either a smashed CV or Hookes joint (pretty obvious), or something badly wrong with the differential gears themselves or their connection to the crownwheel. Tom, unless the Estelle came with an LSD of some form as standard, I'd expect no movement with a totally failed joint, because all the power will be directed to the side of the diff with the failed joint on it (empirical proof - I've "locked" one side of a diff (in a tech museum), and watched as the other free side spun at double speed). |
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| | #7 |
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| Its definatley the joint. I have the whole shaft, suspension, trailing arm, etc and the joint has snapped off both sides. There is a pin with block guides on either side, the guides have sheared off and left half the pin stuck in the middle. I have tried hitting it, heating it, putting it in a vice and trying to squeeze it out and various combinations of the above! ![]() |
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| | #8 |
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| Cheers mate. No idea about how to shift it I'm afraid. Good to know that my understanding of the open diff is confirmed again. |
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| | #9 |
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| lol. well im hardly the expert so all help is appreciated! |
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| | #10 |
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| I've a notion that the yolk (basic Hooke's joint) or pins (CV joint) are heat-hardened, so drilling may be hard to impossible. Quite often (from exploded diagrams) the yolk in a Hooke's is held in place by end cups, which are held in place by circlips. Does that seem any sort of familiar? |
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