skalber

Anyone knows how the hood lock mechanism works in skoda favorit? Because mine doesn't work anymore and I'm trying to find out why

anewman

Hi, is it failling to stay shut, or failing to open?

If its failing to open it could be the cable has snapped or worked loose somehow.

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94 Favorit GLXIe Estate

skalber

ok with the help of a friend we managed to solve to it. The problem was both with the pole on the hood and with the locking mechanism. Everything good now (except with one engine piston, but that's another story )

skalber

Hi btw, you don't know by chance how to fix that heater in favorit? cooling works, heating not

anewman

With the bonnet open there is a big black plastic thing in the middle at the back. Where two pipes go to is the heater matrix. First check that moving the cold/hot control controls the valve (moves left to right).

How much does the temperature gauge move up and how fast? If it's slow to rise and doesn't rise much, then it could be a stuck open thermostat. This would lead to the heater tending to be cold as the engine has little opportunity to become warm. A thermostat and thermostat gasket should be around £5 altogether from a Skoda dealers. Even if you don't suspect it to be a problem if it's never been changed it could be worth changing it for the sake of it, as they're so cheap, to improve efficiency.

Another possibility is the system is not fully bled, try running the engine with the coolant tank cap removed (can drape a cloth over it to prevent splashes onto paintwork), with the heater control on full heat, and let the engine run until the radiator fan cuts in and check both pipes leading to and from the heater matrix are warm. Squeezing/massaging and tapping all coolant pipes may help. When all cooled down top-up the coolant.

Hopefully the answer is one of these.

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94 Favorit GLXIe Estate

Richard Black

If the cabin heater doesn't work it's due to either a blocked heater matrix or the control valve not operating (which would in turn be down to a broken cable or a loose cable clamp). You can easily check the latter by having someone operate the heater slide control on/off while you look from the right-hand side of the engine bay and see if anything's moving around the heater matrix.

If the matrix is so blocked that there's _no_ heating, you'll have to dismantle it. Drain the cooling system (partially will do as the matrix is high up). Disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses from the matrix and get them out of the way. Disconnect the control cable too. With a little fiddling (and maybe undoing some bolts, I can't remember precisely but I do remember it's all pretty obvious) you can get the heater matrix out of its housing. The end caps are crimped on and can be removed if you're careful. You can use a metal rod to clear the pipes, then rinse it all nice and clean and reassemble. Worked a treat in mine!

skalber

Hey, I have another question/problem: I mostly drive the car in heavy traffic jams this means 1st or 2nd gear. When in 1st the car behaves oddly as if it can't get enough moment and stutters until I shift to 2nd. Also when I see the car in front slows, I release the gas but as soon as I do that the car stutters heavily which is dangerous. If I first press the clutch, then release the gas it seems alright. So is what I described a problem with all Favorit or just mine? Or I just do something wrong?

anewman

I think a clean of the throttle body may help. You can buy something from Halfords for about £5 in a can called something like carb and fuel injection cleaner. The throttle body is the thing that moves with the acellerator cable and is visible once the top of the air filter box is removed.

I think new spark plugs could possibly help as well if the current ones are old.

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94 Favorit GLXIe Estate

skalber

Hey, thanks for the answers. Maybe you can help with this one too. What is the purpose of the rubber tube that comes from/to the distributor? Where the other end should be plugged? Looks like it brings air, I see it plugs into a something that sticks from the distributor

daverapid

From this post I reckon your car has a carburettor, rather than single point fuel injection. Am I right?

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David McKinney
TREASURER OF SKODA OWNERS CLUB GREAT BRITAIN
www.skoda-owners-club.org.uk

lewist123

vac advance for the ignition timing. there should be a suitable connection point or arround the intake manifold/carb/thottle body!

KenONeill

skalber

Maybe someone can post a picture from the inside of bonnet? couple of angles would help

lewist123

is yours the carb version?

my is a 91 and ran carb! if yours runs a carb as well, then i can take a pic of the unit and tell you where to 'stick it'

easy way to tell if its a carb is that it has a mechanical fuel pump fitted to the front of the block!

skalber

yes yes it's carburettor model

KenONeill

At that rate there should be a pipe running from the distributor (probably attached to a thing like a couple of very small saucers joined edge to edge) to the carburetor or inlet manifold. This is used to change the ignition timing according to engine revs and throttle setting.

lewist123

I will grab a photo of my carb and inlet (not on the car though) and point out the vac pipe location spigot thinggy!

skalber

<< This is used to change the ignition timing according to engine revs and throttle setting >>
Do you know what happens if the car is driven without the tube attached? That means it's only needed when I start the car?

KenONeill

Starting is one time I think it's not used.

Basically, you'll not have any vacumn advance of the ignition, so you'll only have correct ignition timing if the mechanical timing happens to be right for the revs and throttle setting.

Anyone know a site that simulates the effects of these inputs?

skalber

Just thought to it will be good to share.. I replaced the tube with a new one - the car runs as smooth as Indian silk, she even started to roar a bit I think. Thanks for the help everybody