Tailhappy

As per the title, I thought I would share with you a few of the lesser known Skoda facts that I have picked up in my 13 years of Skodaring. Some you may already know them, but if I can help one person, it will have been worthwhile. Perhaps you have one or two to share?

1. Skoda 136 Rapid engine mounts are not the same as the Estelle despite the parts book saying so - they are a slightly tougher grade of rubber. Use Estelle ones, and the engine will bounce over bumps (mount too flexible), and don't use the new ones with the white bit in - they will shake you to bits. Turn the original mounts around by 180 degrees to equalise the 'stretch'.

2. Don't overtighten the carburettor to manifold bolts - the carb base bends easily and then will leak air.

3. Beware the new air filter to carb ruber seals - they decompose and drop tiny rubber parts into the carb jets - use the old ones again.

4. When refitting a 105/120 brake drum/hub, ensure the woodruff key is seated properly - not too far back - or the wheel will vibrate at speed as it is not sated on the taper properly.

5. For the car's security, make sure that all the window ruber clamps are in place, or the window rubber can be lifted out easily to work the lock with a hook. The clamps snap and fall off into the door cavity.

6. Make sure that the membrane is in place and glued between the door ard and the door card. If it is torn, the card will warp (cannot be straightened).

7. When changing front wheel bearings, use only genuine Skoda ones - the pattern parts are thinner, therfore seating the wheel further back and making the brake pads apply unevenly.

8. If the indicator blinks faster going one way than the other and all the bulbs are working, the holders need renewing due to internal resistance (corrosion).

Well, that is a few for now. I will add as I remember them, but if you have any to share - please do share them.

Ian

KenONeill

(2) - The carburettor mounting block is designed to flex slightly, and stop issues with the float vibrating (more critical on heavy side-draft carbs).

(7) If you want non-Skoda bearings for any reason, take the originals to a proper bearing factor. They will use the standard part to identify the same width, taper, roller length etc.

daverapid

9: Speedos are only anywhere near accurate when cool, when it's warm they over-read, when it's hot they over-read even more!

10: There is a fourth heater control...it's to the right of the left hand footwell and it regulates the heating that goes to the rear footwells.

11: The Estelle was originally designed to be FWD which is why the radiator is at the front and the fuel tank is under the rear seat.

12: There is a small screw on the indicator flasher unit that adjusts the rate at which they flash.

13: If the brake pedal is hard and unresponsive the servo vacuum hose has probably collapsed....it runs virtually the whole length of the car!

__________________

David McKinney
TREASURER OF SKODA OWNERS CLUB GREAT BRITAIN
www.skoda-owners-club.org.uk

KenONeill

11) Rear engine, front radiator is actually a very good design for weight distribution, cooling, and minimising transmission losses.

Tailhappy

Excellent stuff - thanks for the input.

OK, a few more for you.

12. To aid installation of carb 'O' rings, soak the mixture/air screw and ring in hot water and stretch the ring over a biro pen a few times to prevent it snapping when rolled onto the screw.

13. Pay close attention to tyre pressures. If you pump them up in the cold weather and then the weather warms up, you will find that the tyres are probably over inflated. 0.1 BAR either way of correct makes a real difference to the ride quality.

14. After undoing the choke cable from the carb, when replacing it, make sure that you set the choke lever to be a little bit up when the choke on the carb is fully off. This way you will know the choke is 100% off when the choke knob is pressed down.

15. When you have drained the coolant, remove the small hose by the fuel pump (heater bypass) and check that the two metal parts either end where it pushes onto are clear of obstruction. If they are blocked, you will get overheating. I saved a friend a trip to the garage with this one.

16. When taking your car in for a new tyre, remove the wheel nut embelishers before taking it in. They will think they are the wheel nut and put the air wrench on them and *crunch* - one ruined set of covers.

17. Make sure the fuel filter nut at the back of the carb is tight. These can work loose and fuel will drip onto the exhaust manifold making a petrol smell when stopped at the lights.

18. It is not a mater of just looks to replace your darkened and cloudy header tank with a new one. You will then see at a glance whether you have coolant present when opening the engine cover.

Ian