This is a discussion on Setting static timing within the RWD Skodas and others forums, part of the Skoda Model Discussion Area category; I removed the dizzy stem to user some insta-gasket on the base of it where there was a small oil ...
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| | #1 |
| Briskodian Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Manchester
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| I removed the dizzy stem to user some insta-gasket on the base of it where there was a small oil leak, looks like I've upset the timing a little and retarded it while doing it... going to set the static timing again tonight, I'm gonna have to use the voltmeter way of doing it as I don't have a strobe light, problem is I've got a felicia engine and an Estelle workshop manual, I'm guessing that static timing should be set to 3 degreeds BTDC, anyone confirm this?... |
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| | #2 |
| Briskodian Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Walsall
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| Dunno, but I'd reccomend getting a strobe and setting dynamic timing afterwards.
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| | #3 |
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| aye, will be doing, but first I need it to be running less like a badgers **** so I can drive it to my mates place where there is a strobe... |
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| | #4 |
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| If you can get it started, you could slooooowly rotate the dizzy about while it's running until it sounds better- take care though.
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| | #5 |
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| ![]() With a clockwork dissie the best way of timing in the engine is to get it going with points gap check and static timing. Now take the car for a 10 mile or so run, and here's the tricky bit:- With the engine idling, loosen the dissie lock bolt, and gently, very gently, turn the body until the revs rise to their peak. Now lock off the dissie, and adjust the throttle stop screw to get the idle speed down until the engine is only just running smoothly. This gives you the best power and economy. (based on doing it this way for years and years) |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to KenONeill For This Useful Post: | Tenman (14-05-2008)
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| | #6 |
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| will have a go at that Ken... its running OK, just that it seems to be only running on 3 at idle, backfiring badly while throttling back, it was better before I took the whole dizzy stem out to put some gasket there to cure the oil leaking out from it, there was no gasket in there at all as I found when I removed it... I didn't disturb the dizzy or turn the engine at all when I removed it, but I noticed that it didn't slot straight back in nicely, it went in OK while tightening the bolts back down though, I suspect that I've retarded the timing just a little bit... |
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| | #7 |
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| If it's only running on 3, that suggests a problem with a bad plug or HT lead, or a loose HT lead. So try pushing the HTs down at both ends first. The good news is that your timing is not a whole tooth on the dissie out, or the engine just plain wouldn't run! |
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| | #8 |
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| HT lead is definatly getting spark at the dizzy end, its cyl4 thats not firing properly... It was running a hell of a lot better before I removed the dizzy though... this is what's making me think the timings a little out... |
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| | #9 |
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| Seriously, I'd check the plug and lead before doing anything else. |
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| | #10 |
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| There is something about removing the dizzy that causes problems on these cars. I had just the same trouble - took it to Daverapid and he sorted it, but try as I could I could not get it to go right (and I have set the timing loads of times before). I would say you have too much advance - does the engine try to kick back on the started when you fire it up? If you have the Skoda workshop manual, there is a picture that shows the dizzy in a 'basic' start position - adjustment starts from there. It got me out of a jam. Ian |
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| | #11 |
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| only workshop manual I have is the heyes Estelle manual... |
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| | #12 |
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| If you can wait till later I will scan it in and post here. Ian |
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| | #13 |
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| If you mean the one photo, I think that should be ok. If you mean the manual, that is a breach of copyright, so don't do it! If I want to quote a manual, I re-write the relevant stuff! |
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| | #14 |
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| Yes, the one photo is what I was going to post. If that is a prob with copywright infringement then I will not do it. Ian |
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| | #15 |
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| As I said, one photo should be ok. Alternatively, you could take a B&W photo of the dissie on your Estelle and post that instead hint hint. |
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| | #16 |
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| Hint taken - picture will apear within an hour or so. |
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| | #17 |
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| Tenman, please see your PM. Ian |
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| | #18 |
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| Refitting the distributor can be a little fiddly because the distributor shaft turns as you push it into the engine due to the curve of the helical gear on the end of the camshaft that drives the distributor. [Gawd knows if I worded that right but I know what I meant! ] Not only that, but you have to try and align the distributor shaft with the oil pump shaft at the same time.If you like I'm happy to explain how to set up the distributor base setting from scatch as if you'd removed it randomly without marking anything...it might be a bit boring though, but if anyone wants to know I'll post it up. It requires removing the rocker cover.
__________________ David McKinney TREASURER OF SKODA OWNERS CLUB GREAT BRITAIN www.skoda-owners-club.org.uk |
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| | #19 |
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| Perfectly clear to me Dave, but then I've done it (ok on a Ford Essex, not a Skoda engine but still...). |
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| | #20 |
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| Ken's method worked a treat... car is running smoothly again ...I was pretty surprised at how far it turned though before it was right, a good 15-20 degrees... :o |
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