anewman

I have mentioned this problem here briefly under another topic but thought I might try provide more details on the problem now I own the car and that a more specific title will bring out responses from those with knowledge of these types of problems.

Obviously as this would mean an MOT fail if the problem were to occur during a test, nevermind the possibility of being pulled over by the police and the danger associated with not knowing what speed is being done etc, I would like to be able to sort the problem out. Apparently a skoda garage has looked at the car in relation to this problem but said they can't find anything wrong.

The problem.

When switching the sidelight switch on, if the problem is occuring, the instrument panel lights do not come on and the driver side lights are out. If the dipped headlights are switched on, both front lights are working but the rear driverside light is not. On the instrument panel, the dipped light indicator is on but the side light indicator is not.

Also when this problem is occuring one of the foglights doesn't come on too (but I can't remember which ones as have rarely had fog so just switched them on then off to test, I think it is the rear though). Also when the headlights are not working properly as I describe above, the buzzer does not come on as usual when the door is opened.

The problem often cures itself after driving around a while and the headlights just come on. When they do come on they work until they are switched off, after which sometimes the problem reoccurs. Twice, after driving for a while, I have switched the sidelight switch off, then switched it on and they have come on, although this does not always work.

Sometimes the battery charging indicator stays on on the dashboard after starting the engine, but goes out after revving the engine slightly. I do not know if this is associated with the problem or not. Also there has been some sort of LED tailgate brake light added, which appears to be wired into the passenger side lights, so not sure if that contributes.

Never had any problems with the reverse lights or brake lights.

I have not looked at things mechanically yet but was hoping for some pointers as for the number one likely candidate for the problem, so I can fix the problem rather than fiddle with everything.

In the other thread, http://www.briskoda.net/forums/other...e-parts/70336/
Dmac1969 suggested the problem could be frayed wires, or corroded connections, or posibly an intermittent bad earth. And daverapid suggested it could be a burnt headlamp bulb connector plug or a fault with the fusebox.

I may have access to a spare fusebox and a spare switch panel, so may be able to swap the relays (using the diagrams in haynes manuals), and may be able to swap the set of switches. (As far as I can tell the screw to the left of the instrument panel should release the entire panel.)

Thanks very much in advance for any further suggestions or thoughts.

Alfie 168

I'd bet its the fuse box iself, but before changing that I would double check all the earths I could find and also check for a corroded pin in any multiblock connectors. I'd pull them apart and spray them with contact cleaner and then push them back together two or three times to clean any oxidation off them. Do this on the back of the current fusebox too.

As it can cure itself when you switch off and start up again I wouldn't dismiss a faulty earth on the ignition switch either.

I'm sure a good autoelectrics firm could trace it fairly quickly, but that does mean crossing their palm with silver, or plastic or summat. Mechanics are not usually that good on electrical faults, but bloke who know his way round with a multimeter is worth his weight in gold

Let us know how you get on

Alfie 168

anewman

Is this the sort of contact cleaner I am looking for? Contact Cleaner Thanks for the input Alfie, when I get a dry day I'll start removing the fusebox etc and see if I can find anything obvious and proceed as you suggest then get back when I have taken some action to try cure the problem.

One thing I did not mention is that the light bulb on the sidelight switch itself never comes on, but my unknowledgeable uneducated guess is that's just the bulb gone inside the switch.

Alfie 168

Thats the stuff. Don't expect miracles, but its well worth a try, particularly if the car has been left standing and got a bit damp.

And I'd replace any failed bulbs you find as well.

Alfie 168

anewman

I have found an obvious wiring fault, at the bottom of the radiator on the drivers side I have found a loose yellow wire with what appears to be a crimp attached to the radiator intended for the wire. Here is a pic.

I will try to reattach this. Is this likely to be the cause of the fault or is this likely to be something simple like power supply to the radiator fan?

The yellow wire appears to come from a cable on the right hand side of the alternator. The wire is barely long enough to reach the crimp thing which probably explains why it came loose. I guess I will have to buy a small block connector and some wire.

Apparently the radiator was replaced after it started leaking a year or two ago so my guess is that is when the bad wiring job was done.

daverapid

That wire is for the radiator fan thermo-switch. Repairing that won't cure your other problems but it's an important thing to sort out, especially if you use the car where it's likely to be idling for long periods.

To locate your other faults I would have the engine running with the sidelamps on, pivot the fusebox down and wiggle the various relays/fuses/connections ect. and see if the faults appear and dissapear while you're doing it. I'd be surprised if the problems aren't caused by a dodgy fusebox or it's connections.

Needing to rev the engine to put the battery light out is normal on Favorits and isn't a reason to worry.

__________________

David McKinney
TREASURER OF SKODA OWNERS CLUB GREAT BRITAIN
www.skoda-owners-club.org.uk

Tom_vRS

It definitely sounds like an earthing problem. Check all the engine bay wiring loom, check every wire is attached to something!

__________________
97/R BMW 328i in Boston Green.

anewman

Thanks very much for the advice so far guys.

Problem update:

I have opened the fusebox and taken off all the connectors and used contact cleaner on them. I also checked for any obvious wiring problems etc. I also removed the 2 relays that Haynes manual suggests are for the headlights and used contact cleaner on them. Put it all back together and the problem is still there.

However, I have found that when switching the lights on, if they do not work, tapping the fusebox is guaranteed to bring them on every time. The lights have only ever stopped working while driving so far once, but otherwise when they come on they seem to stay on.

This leads me to believe the problem is definitely in the fusebox. I wonder if the fault is the relay. If so, are the relays interchangeable? I could swap the headlight relay for one of the less critical ones. For example fogs or rear demister.

The MOT is due in the next 2 weeks and my concern is that it will fail the MOT if they come to switch the lights on and they don't work properly.

Any thoughts?

daverapid

I'm fairly certain the relays are interchangeable, the obvious exception being the indicators flasher relay. Check the numbers on the relays 1st though just to be sure. You may even find the connections to the relays are corroded or burnt. By the way does the passengers side carpet get wet? It's very common on Favorits/Felicias for the windscreen to leak rainwater which runs straight into the fusebox!

__________________

David McKinney
TREASURER OF SKODA OWNERS CLUB GREAT BRITAIN
www.skoda-owners-club.org.uk

anewman

One of the relays that is different to the others has a circular metal bit in the centre which is rusting slightly. Other than that there is no obvious signs of corrosion or leaks. I have swapped about the relays and fear I have made the problem worse (not cured it anyway).

Looks like a fusebox/relay replacement may be in order.