FAQ - Wash Process

Tom_vRS · 08-05-2008, 10:47

This seems to get asked quite a bit, so fingers crossed my little write up below is helpful.

On a car thats well waxed, the wash process I'd recommend is:

Pressure wash to remove the worst of the crap. Don't forget the wheel arch liners and under the sills and bumpers.
Snow foam and leave to dwell for about 10 minutes - this will depend on how well the foam adheres to the bodywork. You should physically see the foam dragging the muck off the car as it breaks it down.
Whilst the snow foam is dwelling, I go round and clean all the wheel faces with a lambswool mitt, and the insides of the wheels with my EZ brush. I also give the exhaust a wipe with a manky old microfibre cloth (MF).
Pressure wash again to rinse - this should leave the car pretty damn clean
Maybe repeat the snow foam & pressure wash if the car was heavily soiled or lacking in wax.
At this stage, if the car isn't spotless (and if its waxed and cleaned weekly it should be), do a contact wash using a good shampoo, and 2 bucket method with a lambswool mitt. Some people swear by grit guards - I like to use a nice tall, large capacity bucket, only dip the mitt in the top 1/3 of the bucket and rub my hand over the mitt to release any debris that were picked up whilst washing.
Then dry the car, I find the hose pipe, open end and turned down low run slowly over the car drags most of the water off.
Then use a quality drying towel such as a waffle weave, or plush mf to gently pat the car dry, or wipe gently. I like to use a quick detailing spray to help with the drying and lubricate the drying cloth. As a bonus this seems to rejuvenate the paint after the wash process.
Then I use a spray wax like Pinnacles (this smells divine), as it takes literally 2-3 minutes to go over the car. Ultimately this is ontop of the Colinite 476S, so the Pinnacle is just a quick top-up.
Quick tyre dressing, clean the windows, quick Autosol on the exhaust, hoover and wipe all the interior plastics with a damp MF and job done May need to clean the mats (expecially the bindings) with AG Interior Shampoo.
The whole process takes me about 1 & a 1/2 hours from start to finish, including setting up and packing away.

I guarantee if you use this process, the car will keep looking better than new, and only LIGHT paint correction/polish will be needed on a bi-annual basis. I think I will be doing a light paint correction and re-wax with the Colinite every 4 months or so, and the wheels off for a reclean and wax every 2 months or so as this gives you a chance to clean the arch liners and brake calipers etc!

For me, the expense of a pressure washer and snow foam and lance etc is a lot of outlay, but the idea imho is to avoid contact washing the car where possible to avoid the onset of swirl marks and random deeper scratches as far as I can. Ensuring you only use quality drying towels and MFs, and you will be 90% of the way there. However, imperfections will still occur, and you will still get light scratching and swirling - but such is life

MICKSVRS · 08-05-2008, 11:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom_vRS

This seems to get asked quite a bit, so fingers crossed my little write up below is helpful.

On a car thats well waxed, the wash process I'd recommend is:

Pressure wash to remove the worst of the crap. Don't forget the wheel arch liners and under the sills and bumpers.
Snow foam and leave to dwell for about 10 minutes - this will depend on how well the foam adheres to the bodywork. You should physically see the foam dragging the muck off the car as it breaks it down.
Whilst the snow foam is dwelling, I go round and clean all the wheel faces with a lambswool mitt, and the insides of the wheels with my EZ brush. I also give the exhaust a wipe with a manky old microfibre cloth (MF).
Pressure wash again to rinse - this should leave the car pretty damn clean
Maybe repeat the snow foam & pressure wash if the car was heavily soiled or lacking in wax.
At this stage, if the car isn't spotless (and if its waxed and cleaned weekly it should be), do a contact wash using a good shampoo, and 2 bucket method with a lambswool mitt. Some people swear by grit guards - I like to use a nice tall, large capacity bucket, only dip the mitt in the top 1/3 of the bucket and rub my hand over the mitt to release any debris that were picked up whilst washing.
Then dry the car, I find the hose pipe, open end and turned down low run slowly over the car drags most of the water off.
Then use a quality drying towel such as a waffle weave, or plush mf to gently pat the car dry, or wipe gently. I like to use a quick detailing spray to help with the drying and lubricate the drying cloth. As a bonus this seems to rejuvenate the paint after the wash process.
Then I use a spray wax like Pinnacles (this smells divine), as it takes literally 2-3 minutes to go over the car. Ultimately this is ontop of the Colinite 476S, so the Pinnacle is just a quick top-up.
Quick tyre dressing, clean the windows, quick Autosol on the exhaust, hoover and wipe all the interior plastics with a damp MF and job done May need to clean the mats (expecially the bindings) with AG Interior Shampoo.
The whole process takes me about 1 & a 1/2 hours from start to finish, including setting up and packing away.

I guarantee if you use this process, the car will keep looking better than new, and only LIGHT paint correction/polish will be needed on a bi-annual basis. I think I will be doing a light paint correction and re-wax with the Colinite every 4 months or so, and the wheels off for a reclean and wax every 2 months or so as this gives you a chance to clean the arch liners and brake calipers etc!

For me, the expense of a pressure washer and snow foam and lance etc is a lot of outlay, but the idea imho is to avoid contact washing the car where possible to avoid the onset of swirl marks and random deeper scratches as far as I can. Ensuring you only use quality drying towels and MFs, and you will be 90% of the way there. However, imperfections will still occur, and you will still get light scratching and swirling - but such is life

Good write up Tom

cheezemonkhai · 08-05-2008, 11:09

Foam, walk away.

Rinse, walk away.

When dry clean windows if needed.

Works well, but I do have 2 layers of gloss guard and about 4 layers of Colli 476s on the car.

Johnny50 · 08-05-2008, 12:37

Good write up Tom.

Saves a lot of questions that does.

Baker21 · 08-05-2008, 13:26

You bored at work or something?

Good write up Tom, you want a job?

Tom_vRS · 08-05-2008, 16:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baker21

Good write up Tom, you want a job?

I don't think you could pay enough!!!

EddyH · 08-05-2008, 16:25

What's snow foam and where do I buy it?

Tom_vRS · 08-05-2008, 18:17

Snow foam is basically a concentrated detergent. For example: Clean Your Car - car care products UK do one called Super Snow foam.

It clings to the bodywork to break down muck so it can be pressure washed off, thus avoiding doing a contact wash.

Bigw2069 · 08-05-2008, 18:17

Have Stickied this tom

Bigw2069 · 08-05-2008, 18:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by EddyH

What's snow foam and where do I buy it?

Autobrite is a good place to look for snowfoam Eddy, they also sell the lance's too (IIRC they offer the two in a kind of package buy)

E-Commerce

Snowfoam is a thick lather, that lays and clings to the car, the idea is that leaving the foam to dwell till it drops off loosens some bonded contaminents.

I personally foam the car twice, once after a rinse, let it dwell and run off then a quick rinse and another coat of foam watching the colour of the foam running off.

Foam going on.

Foam Dwelling

Run off.

gillywibble · 08-05-2008, 19:56

Wouldn't disagree with anything you've said Tom. I don't pre-rinse. I reckon paint correction once a year if not less following a correct washing method.

Great write up

cheezemonkhai · 09-05-2008, 00:56

Have to say the BH foam is so good that it looked like i have washed it with a mitt when I tried it after this weekends sandy rain and a few hundred miles.

Excellent stuff.

You'll see what I mean when you try it Tom

Johnny50 · 09-05-2008, 08:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by cheezemonkhai

Have to say the BH foam is so good that it looked like i have washed it with a mitt when I tried it after this weekends sandy rain and a few hundred miles.

Excellent stuff.

You'll see what I mean when you try it Tom

So you would recommend that over AB SSF then ?

I'm running low so looking for a replacement.

cheezemonkhai · 12-05-2008, 00:57

I would have done but tried it on a mini at the weekend and after diluting it 50:50 it didn't foam up well.

I'm just talking to BH and also going to ping Karcher to make sure I didn't over dilute it.

Will report back when I know

Sonic1980 · 12-05-2008, 07:55

If you rinse with tap water it leaves drying marks. How do you all combat that?

Only way I know is to use a de-ionising water gun?

DO halfrauds sell snow foam? where can I go to get some?

ethos · 12-05-2008, 08:16

Is it this wax spray you are talking about?

Elite Car Care Pinnacle Crystal Mist Detail Spray 16oz

I normally use 915, but would like to use a softer wax after washes. Should help the 915 last a bit longer too...

cheezemonkhai · 12-05-2008, 10:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sonic1980

If you rinse with tap water it leaves drying marks. How do you all combat that?

Only way I know is to use a de-ionising water gun?

DO halfrauds sell snow foam? where can I go to get some?

A drying MF town and some Meguires last touch

As far as I'm aware halfords don't sell it.

Tom_vRS · 12-05-2008, 10:34

Ah, thats disappointing Mark.

Calculate the flow rate of the lance, then time how long it takes to empty say 500ml, then you will be able to work out the concentration from that!

With the Elite I have 100ml topped up to 1l and thats pretty much perfect for 2 washes.

Baker21 · 12-05-2008, 13:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by cheezemonkhai

A drying MF town and some Meguires last touch

Agree with that as this is what I use.............

Tom_vRS · 12-05-2008, 13:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sonic1980

If you rinse with tap water it leaves drying marks. How do you all combat that?

As per the original post

Quote:

Originally Posted by Me

Then use a quality drying towel such as a waffle weave, or plush mf to gently pat the car dry, or wipe gently. I like to use a quick detailing spray to help with the drying and lubricate the drying cloth. As a bonus this seems to rejuvenate the paint after the wash process.

I too use Megs last touch, and normally do a final drying wipe over with a nice plush MF.

08-05-2008, 10:47	#1
Tom_vRS Briskodaholic Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Fenland, Cambridgeshire Posts: 11,034 Thanks: 585 Thanked 373 Times in 255 Posts	FAQ - Wash Process This seems to get asked quite a bit, so fingers crossed my little write up below is helpful. On a car thats well waxed, the wash process I'd recommend is: Pressure wash to remove the worst of the crap. Don't forget the wheel arch liners and under the sills and bumpers. Snow foam and leave to dwell for about 10 minutes - this will depend on how well the foam adheres to the bodywork. You should physically see the foam dragging the muck off the car as it breaks it down. Whilst the snow foam is dwelling, I go round and clean all the wheel faces with a lambswool mitt, and the insides of the wheels with my EZ brush. I also give the exhaust a wipe with a manky old microfibre cloth (MF). Pressure wash again to rinse - this should leave the car pretty damn clean Maybe repeat the snow foam & pressure wash if the car was heavily soiled or lacking in wax. At this stage, if the car isn't spotless (and if its waxed and cleaned weekly it should be), do a contact wash using a good shampoo, and 2 bucket method with a lambswool mitt. Some people swear by grit guards - I like to use a nice tall, large capacity bucket, only dip the mitt in the top 1/3 of the bucket and rub my hand over the mitt to release any debris that were picked up whilst washing. Then dry the car, I find the hose pipe, open end and turned down low run slowly over the car drags most of the water off. Then use a quality drying towel such as a waffle weave, or plush mf to gently pat the car dry, or wipe gently. I like to use a quick detailing spray to help with the drying and lubricate the drying cloth. As a bonus this seems to rejuvenate the paint after the wash process. Then I use a spray wax like Pinnacles (this smells divine), as it takes literally 2-3 minutes to go over the car. Ultimately this is ontop of the Colinite 476S, so the Pinnacle is just a quick top-up. Quick tyre dressing, clean the windows, quick Autosol on the exhaust, hoover and wipe all the interior plastics with a damp MF and job done May need to clean the mats (expecially the bindings) with AG Interior Shampoo. The whole process takes me about 1 & a 1/2 hours from start to finish, including setting up and packing away. I guarantee if you use this process, the car will keep looking better than new, and only LIGHT paint correction/polish will be needed on a bi-annual basis. I think I will be doing a light paint correction and re-wax with the Colinite every 4 months or so, and the wheels off for a reclean and wax every 2 months or so as this gives you a chance to clean the arch liners and brake calipers etc! For me, the expense of a pressure washer and snow foam and lance etc is a lot of outlay, but the idea imho is to avoid contact washing the car where possible to avoid the onset of swirl marks and random deeper scratches as far as I can. Ensuring you only use quality drying towels and MFs, and you will be 90% of the way there. However, imperfections will still occur, and you will still get light scratching and swirling - but such is life __________________ 97/R BMW 328i in Boston Green. Don't miss the new DR COLORCHIPS GROUP BUY!

08-05-2008, 11:09	#3
cheezemonkhai Briskodian Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 14,629 Thanks: 87 Thanked 398 Times in 369 Posts	Re: FAQ - Wash Process Foam, walk away. Rinse, walk away. When dry clean windows if needed. Works well, but I do have 2 layers of gloss guard and about 4 layers of Colli 476s on the car. __________________ Cars make CO2 and trees absorb CO2. By driving your car you're feeding a tree and helping the environment.

08-05-2008, 12:37	#4
Johnny50 Here's Johnny ! Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 5,028 Thanks: 192 Thanked 137 Times in 133 Posts	Re: FAQ - Wash Process Good write up Tom. Saves a lot of questions that does.

08-05-2008, 13:26	#5
Baker21 OEM+ SUPERB Join Date: May 2005 Location: Northants Posts: 3,123 Thanks: 2 Thanked 94 Times in 87 Posts	Re: FAQ - Wash Process You bored at work or something? Good write up Tom, you want a job? __________________ Best regards, Baker21 - 'OEM+' SKODA SUPERB PD TDI 130 Need you motor 'Detailing'?? Then drop me a PM...

08-05-2008, 16:25	#7
EddyH Briskodian Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 4,897 Thanks: 40 Thanked 26 Times in 26 Posts	Re: FAQ - Wash Process What's snow foam and where do I buy it? __________________ EddyH Audi S8 Audi A3 2.0 TDI Sport

08-05-2008, 18:17	#8
Tom_vRS Briskodaholic Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Fenland, Cambridgeshire Posts: 11,034 Thanks: 585 Thanked 373 Times in 255 Posts	Re: FAQ - Wash Process Snow foam is basically a concentrated detergent. For example: Clean Your Car - car care products UK do one called Super Snow foam. It clings to the bodywork to break down muck so it can be pressure washed off, thus avoiding doing a contact wash. __________________ 97/R BMW 328i in Boston Green. Don't miss the new DR COLORCHIPS GROUP BUY!

08-05-2008, 18:17	#9
Bigw2069 Moderator Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Rosyth,Scotland Posts: 5,382 Thanks: 201 Thanked 200 Times in 164 Posts	Re: FAQ - Wash Process Have Stickied this tom __________________

08-05-2008, 19:56	#11
gillywibble Cuthbert Dibble Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Watching Tom peeping at Lady Godiva. Posts: 6,187 Thanks: 217 Thanked 206 Times in 169 Posts	Re: FAQ - Wash Process Wouldn't disagree with anything you've said Tom. I don't pre-rinse. I reckon paint correction once a year if not less following a correct washing method. Great write up __________________ I drink, therefore I spam.

09-05-2008, 00:56	#12
cheezemonkhai Briskodian Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 14,629 Thanks: 87 Thanked 398 Times in 369 Posts	Re: FAQ - Wash Process Have to say the BH foam is so good that it looked like i have washed it with a mitt when I tried it after this weekends sandy rain and a few hundred miles. Excellent stuff. You'll see what I mean when you try it Tom __________________ Cars make CO2 and trees absorb CO2. By driving your car you're feeding a tree and helping the environment.

12-05-2008, 00:57	#14
cheezemonkhai Briskodian Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 14,629 Thanks: 87 Thanked 398 Times in 369 Posts	Re: FAQ - Wash Process I would have done but tried it on a mini at the weekend and after diluting it 50:50 it didn't foam up well. I'm just talking to BH and also going to ping Karcher to make sure I didn't over dilute it. Will report back when I know __________________ Cars make CO2 and trees absorb CO2. By driving your car you're feeding a tree and helping the environment.

12-05-2008, 07:55	#15
Sonic1980 Briskodian Join Date: May 2005 Location: A hop and a skip from nowhere Posts: 1,599 Thanks: 3 Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts	Re: FAQ - Wash Process If you rinse with tap water it leaves drying marks. How do you all combat that? Only way I know is to use a de-ionising water gun? DO halfrauds sell snow foam? where can I go to get some? __________________ Fabia v/RS http://www.whf.org.uk Wildlife Heritage Foundation - The Big Cat Sanctuary in Kent. Part of the European Endangered Species Programme (EEP) Big Cat Encounter - Want an idea for a great present??

12-05-2008, 08:16	#16
ethos Briskodian Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Cornwall Posts: 1,200 Thanks: 63 Thanked 37 Times in 33 Posts	Re: FAQ - Wash Process Is it this wax spray you are talking about? Elite Car Care Pinnacle Crystal Mist Detail Spray 16oz I normally use 915, but would like to use a softer wax after washes. Should help the 915 last a bit longer too... __________________ Octy vRS mk1; APR Stage 1, Forge 007p DV, THS TIP, Honda s2000 aerial, seat cupra front splitter, MAS alloy center caps, alpine CDE-9871R, infinity 6010cs, Jbl 75.4 and 10" sub. Pug 205 gti; mi16 200bhp/tonne

12-05-2008, 10:34	#18
Tom_vRS Briskodaholic Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Fenland, Cambridgeshire Posts: 11,034 Thanks: 585 Thanked 373 Times in 255 Posts	Re: FAQ - Wash Process Ah, thats disappointing Mark. Calculate the flow rate of the lance, then time how long it takes to empty say 500ml, then you will be able to work out the concentration from that! With the Elite I have 100ml topped up to 1l and thats pretty much perfect for 2 washes. __________________ 97/R BMW 328i in Boston Green. Don't miss the new DR COLORCHIPS GROUP BUY!

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