Supurbia

How can you tell if it's seized? obvious question I know, but is there a technique to get it moving or is the fact it wouldn't budge when hit front to back with a hammer at a medium power swing?

rotodiesel

Don't hit it hard with a hammer unless you want to turn the bolt into a rivet. The bolt is 8.8 grade and is soft, unplated and rusty.

These things are a pain. Use a 16 or 5/8" AF ring spanner on the bolt head and see if you can move it a little. Don't attempt to turn it round as it will shear off - the bolt is bent due to its being a "pinch" bolt.

If you can get it to move even slightly, rock it to and fro with the ring spanner whilst lightly tapping the threaded end - protected of course by a nut. Whatever you do, don't hit it hard. Most will break free by this method (Superbs are not as old and rusty as Passats) but if it's seized there is a plan B. There is a VAG tool for getting rusted bolts out - it's a joke and doesn't work.

As I have said on this Forum, vital annual maintenance for a B5.5 is to remove both the upper wishbone and track rod end pinch bolts annually and grease them. There's no excuse, you can do it in 10 mins per side without jacking the car up or removing the wheel. Don't move the raised toe setting when you shift the track rod end bolt.

rotodiesel.

Lummox

I never have a problem with the Klann tool, using the correct adapters in turn and it comes up no problems.

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rotodiesel

When the bolt is really stuck you can't push it out - it's soft and will burr over or bend.

With a really stuck bolt the trick is to cut the bolt in half using the slot in the knuckle nearer the bolt head. The headed portion + a small amount of shank can then be turned out. This leaves the remainder (most of the bolt) in the knuckle which can be jacked out with a nut and an increasing pile of washers on the other end.

I've never had any sucess pushing on these bolts, but pulling them out seems to work nearly every time. The last resort is a drill....

One of VAG's finest details.

rotodiesel.

Supurbia

Thx lads I got it done this afternoon, it was a garage job, it came out eventually with much back and forthing the rear end of it and chisel action to split the housing, then the stub bolt didn't want to move either, one long pole over the bar convinced it in the end, very bad design, very poor response to it, you'd think by now a more suitable bolt would be available that resists the welding action.

Stand by tomorrow, it's test time for my Superb, if it passes I will be praising it, if it fails I will be torching it, I do hope Skoda make a better effort of the new one, cos today I had my second set of tyres on the front, I last had Bridgestones fitted hoping for more than 10k from them, alsa twas not to be and the rears aren't far behind either, probably the worst suspension set up on a modern car, and to coin a phrase...If Skoda made Lager they'd be bankrupt.

Lummox

Glad you got it sorted.

Everyone who does these with any great regularity will have a method of doing it. To me a spray called Black Magic is the dogs danglies, i've not seen it fail yet. I personally try to get both ends of the bolt moving together. A really good set of molegrips on the threaded end at the front where the nut was and then a 16mm socket and bar at the other and then rock back and forward. Once they are both moving my 3.8" drive IR gun on the 16mm back end of the bolt and then spin it up working back and forwards, eventually it comes out.

I started with Audi in 1999 working on the A4's etc that has this arangement and we did a lot of arms back then (inc recalls on them) so it would be fair to say i've done a few and the above method worked well.

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numskull

Where is this bloody thing - sounds like a nightmare!

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Num

In Search Of Working Remap!

Lummox

Top of the front suspension strut, just above the top of the tyre.

Two ball joints, one on each upper arm are held in place by a bolt about 5ins long I guess.

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rotodiesel

Interesting observations, Lummox - obviously approaches differ. I wonder if it makes any difference, but the really rusty ones I had to deal with were those which lived near the sea (as I did at the time). Salt water thrown up from the front tyre makes for a really solidly rusted mess.

A Wolfsburg wonder - it just shows Skoda have no autonomy over VW otherwise they would have changed the bolt specification as an absolute minimum. As it is, the Superb has inherited all the faults of the Passat/A4.

VAG will not get any more of my hard earned cash for knowingly selling me a vehicle with fixable design faults under the guise of a low-rent badge.

rotodiesel.

Supurbia

This one was the near side one, which obviously takes the brunt spending half it's life in the camber of the road kerbside, I'm with you Roto, I've no intention of buying Skoda again, a few reasons, the Insignia is going to look 2008 where the pics I've seen of the new Superb has conservative styling and the overall look of a 1994 Granada Scorpio hatch, I could've got over that, but, given I used 6 tyres in 19k including two brand new ones that used to run on a Vectra for 26k front and half worn on the back at 41k, and will soon need two more for the back, and the bolt issue, and the fact the gaiter's don't last long, and the pollen filter flood issue, and the attitude of the dealers, read up on the Sharan/Galaxy/Alhambra flooding, only Seat comes out with any real effort to resolve, what was VW's resolution, move the ecu up a few inches, how about stop the water getting in in the 1st place, na for me a nice car has been tainted and ruined by ...we got ya money now ****off attitude, ppl say VX can be poor, not in my experience, I've never had them give up on fixing something, they offer me trade prices on genuine parts *as did GSF today btw* the cars handle better, look better and imo are better, maybe I'm a bit unfair to Skoda because maybe a Skoda Skoda is a lot better than a VW skoda, but the way they've treated me this past year I'd say all things are even.

rotodiesel

The only problem for me is that the Americans can't make good diesel engines - saving fuel is not on their agenda. The Japanese are learning, but as their fuel systems are still second rate European designs built under licence, I'm far from convinced.

That leaves the French... I happen to have an old PSA diesel which has nearly done 140k miles without any problems and gives incredible economy. It's a perfect town car but won't do the job the Superb does. I just wouldn't trust the French to make a car as complicated as this without cutting corners - my French car has a 21 way electrical connector in the front LH wheel arch.

So, I think VAG are still the winners for biggish affordable diesels (BMW are fashion accessories with a price to match and MB have terrible build quality), so I'll hang on to the Superb for a bit longer until the Japanese makers have sorted out their diesel fuel systems.

rotodiesel.

Supurbia

I'm a bit happier today Roto, as you might have seen the car flew through the MOT today, so as long as it stays reliable, and I have to admit other than a couple of minor faults when I 1st got the car it has been reliable it shall remain in my employ, but I think I'm spot on with my comments on SUcK and their dealers, like you advocate, a good indy garage and GSF sourced parts and she's as competitive as my VX's were, I gave £9.31 for the boot kit yesterday, and £20 for the fitting, well I gave £25 actually because I like to look after those that look after me.

Taxi 219

Somebody i work with has a 56 plate Vectra 1.9CDTi that is on its 2nd gearbox and 2 nd driveshaft at 30K miles.Thats unreliability for you.

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Supurbia

The Vectra C isn't the greatest thing VX have produced, the CDTi engine is a joint venture with Fiat, a very potent unit but not reliable I'm afraid, I know the Vec's have had DMF trouble as well, this could be what took out the box tbh, not heard of anyone having trouble with driveshafts though.

Jenks

Regarding a pinch bolt that is jammed/stuck. Has anyone tried applying a little heat via a blow torch to the metal surroundind the bolt. I have found this method has got me out of a 'Tight spot' before. (pun intended) It might mean removing the wheel and care would have to be taken to keep the flame away from the rubber gaiters.

Jenks

sidewaze samm

Got this job lined up as one to do shortly, on a day off - if it doesn't bucket down. (Can't do it at weekends as there's always too many other 'jobs' that 'need' doing - her words not mine!)
From the comments I've read, and having had a quick look at the job, I guess removing the wheels would be a good idea for a 'pinch-bolt novice', as would doing the possibly easier offside bolt first, before the nearside. Main point though - in light of Roto's post above - is it suggested, indeed recommend, to get a couple of new bolts before the job is attempted; 'just in case'? If so, what is the precise name of the bolt I should be asking for? Presumably it must be a stock item.

cheers

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Gizmo68

This is something i need to get round to doing also, i had a bit of a go at getting them out a couple of months ago, but they are solid.
When they finally do come out i intend replacing the bolts (M10 x 100) with marine grade (A4, 316 stainless steel) ones, so i guess they don't take much of a load being just a pinch bolt (which is why the OE are only 8.8 grade)

johannapam1

I'm not an expert - but can you just change these bolts (safety) for another kind as you say?
If so it would make sense for everyone to change them to something that won't rust in over time?

Gizmo68

Providing you at least meet the OE 8.8 grade and replace it like for like (bolt with an un-threaded shank opposed to an all threaded set screw) i can see no issues.

johannapam1

Thanx