Chrispy

.....So I thought I'd document it for those wanting to do the same. It's a piece of cake but still usefull for those wanting to know what job they're looking at before jacking the car up.

I'd gotten sick of the knocking every time I pressed the clutch to change from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd and so decided to do something about it.


Anyway, for this you will need the following:

1x engine rear stabilizer mount (part no: 6Q0199851N)
A 16mm socket
Torx bits
Jack & axle stands / ramps

Anyway, here is the new engine stabilizer mount. This is £35.68 inc vat from a dealer, which I think is pretty good considering its size.




Jack up the car and put it on axle stands, or get it on ramps. Then remove the undertray by undoing the torx screws that hold it on.

Once the undertray is removed you'll be able to see the old mount quite clearly. It should look like this:



As you can see, the large round end bolts into the console and the other end bolts onto the gearbox housing.

Undo the 4 x 16mm bolts holding the mount in place:



You'll then be able to maneuver the old mount out from the console by turning it towards the drivers side wheel and pulling towards you.

My old mount looked 'ok' at first.....





But upon closer inpection the large round bush that bolts into the console felt quite soft and was clearly past its prime. I imagine that it simply allowed enough play for the edge of the mount to touch the console and make a bit of noise. The bush is also only held in at 2 points. The other points seem to be there to allow a bit of movement but I think this also allows too much play in a tired mount as their gaps were wider than the new one. See the old bush below:



Anyway, before you re-fit the new mount, marvel at how much you can swing the engine without it fitted. This thing is clearly the only thing resisting the twist/ shove of the engine as you apply power and so it's no wonder they wear out considering the torque of the vRS lump. Even more so for remapped motors.

Refitting is the reversal of removal. Ensure all the bolts are tight before replacing the undertray and putting the car back on the ground.

My knocking when dipping the clutch during upward/ accelerative gearchanges has now gone and the whole process of changing gear feels much more crisp. They're less notchy and the engine does not feel like it's wiggling as much when you gently dab the throttle or take up drive to set off in traffic etc.

Cheers,

Chris.

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Silver '04 Fabia vRS. Jabba Custom Remap, Seat Surgeons Leather interior, Whiteline RARB, Cupra Console Bushes

skudmissile

Nice guide! will be using it this week sometime when my mount comes in stock.

Top bombing

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Bored of the volvo already

devonutopia

I'm first on the list when Jabbasport develop their uprated one of these. I SOOOO need one too....

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Jason - Mongrel owner! WOOOOF! Grrrrr

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Chrispy

Didn't you say Powerflex do an uprated one John? Might be worth looking into as the large round bush is quite feeble. My new one is ok but I can't see it lasting that long TBH. My old one started knocking at about 33k so I'd say that's about the norm for lifespan depending on driving style etc.

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Silver '04 Fabia vRS. Jabba Custom Remap, Seat Surgeons Leather interior, Whiteline RARB, Cupra Console Bushes

skudmissile

yer i am pretty sure they do which presses into an orginal "dogbone", i havent been to work for a few days but will double check when i next go in.

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john

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Bored of the volvo already

ric04vrs

i can agree with it making a huge difference to the smoothness of the driveline , i don't know why i didn't do it sooner

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not so bored now

gtjunior

Whens this going to come out do we know??

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EXOWNER OF:-106 Zest 3, Astra SXI,FABIA vRS ALL GONE BUT NOT FORGOTEN, Now with Focus ST