This is a discussion on Fabia evap temp sensor - how to (with pics) within the Technical Guides forums, part of the Skoda Model Discussion Area category; Having had my stereo out, I don't remember there being anything knock-out-able down the back of the hole where it ...
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| | #21 |
| ASZ Eternal Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Leafy Chesh-shire
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| Having had my stereo out, I don't remember there being anything knock-out-able down the back of the hole where it sits? After your description, though, I'm wondering whether it's just the (not very sophisticated) thermostatic control struggling to match the temperature it's set at. For instance, yesterday morning, it was about 15degC outside, but warm inside my car 'cos of the early sunshine, it was blowing out warm air 'cos the dial was set to 18degC! Try it turned right down to 'blue', and it should blow cold air no matter what. Another thing that my wife discovered is that if you turn to to 'blue' too hard and force the dial against the stop, the A/C can be a bit funny. So if you do turn it right down to see if it's working, don't use too much force! HTH
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| | #22 |
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| i'm too big of a laddie to get 2 hands in LOL, just try One finger one thumb. ![]() or the tried and tested. BOWLING BALL |
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| | #23 |
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| Hello Echase, with regard to the 0-5v thing, it should be a 12 v supply to the compressor clutch plate to turn the air con on which engages the clutch and allows the belt to turn the vanes in the compressor. Their aint much anloge singnals involed as the compressor clutch is either on or off now air con in your home or the like will have some form of anloge system which will vary the displacment of the vanes or use a VSD drive to vary the speed of the motor driving the vanes. what i would like to know is where the 12 v is switched from as i dont realy want to cut in the wiring loom to trace the cable, its only my wifes car and this is the only problem with it apart from a rattling timing chain but i will worrie if it stops rattling!!! |
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| | #24 |
| Briskodian Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: glasgow
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| under bonnet drivers side at fuel filter two alloy pipes one with round switch for pressure of gas in system,pressure drop air con wont work as not to burn out compressor,may just need little top up of gas,doing them regular just now with wethear like this hope this helps |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to fatherted444 For This Useful Post: | magdy zaky (20-05-2008)
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| | #25 |
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| I took out the front seat ( 4 bolts 5 mins) and it made life 100% easier. However, now I am stuck with a condenser rad that the garage told me, needed replacing. With a little deduction it was clear that the sensor had gone, but it was too late I brought the rad>>>> |
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| | #26 |
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| Thanks apOgee, I have fabia mpi 1.4 which has left wheel drive and its same problem with air con I followed your picture instruction step by step put idont found the evap sensor at left side. where I lookfor it? Last edited by magdy zaky; 20-05-2008 at 22:17. |
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| | #27 |
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| I don't know for certain, but the air con may be the same way round for both left-hand drive and right-hand drive. If this is the case, the sensor will be above the glove compartment. I did a guide for removing leaves from the fan blower, which may help you in removing the necessary parts: Link Hop this helps! ![]()
__________________ Last edited by DGW; 23-08-2008 at 12:23. Reason: Redundant quote deleted. |
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| | #28 |
| Big Jas Join Date: Oct 2007
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| just did this what a pain in the a55!! Hasn't fixed my problem though ![]()
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| | #29 |
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| Hy Thanks for this great guide. I went today to a local guru for air conditioning which finded out that something is not OK with air conditioning on my left hand drive fabia 1.4. After they used diagnostic tool they founded out evaporations sensor fault. They said changing this sensor costs about 350€ becouse they have to remove dashboard. Local Skoda servicer requests 220€ for change. Now it only will take me for an hour or max two. I will report where evaporation temp sensor is located in left hand driven fabia ![]() |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to dragman For This Useful Post: | ap0gee (06-06-2008)
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| | #30 | |
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| Quote:
About an hour and half to do this today. It felt so good knowing that the Skoda garage were not getting the £160 they wanted to fit this bit. Great guide, made it easy, and I have aircon. COOL, real cool.
__________________ ~~~~~ Ah was hoping to buy a new Oct II, but lost faith with the dealer world so I'm servicing me Fab and keeping her for now. One day, one day.... ~~~~~ | |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to deecee3 For This Useful Post: | ap0gee (09-06-2008),
magdy zaky (13-06-2008)
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| | #31 |
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| As I promised. Evaporator temperatur sensor in left hand driven fabia is located at same position (on driver side). Here are pictures of my procedure www.Skoda-Team.com ~ Poglej temo - Senzor temperature uparjalnika klime (kako ga zamenjam) - your are welcome for any translations into english ![]() How it looks central locking ECU bracket and its V shaped lugs (I broked one of lugs by accident). You can also see 2 slots in the car metal chassis where lugs are slided. <img> </img> |
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| | #32 | |
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| Quote:
So it's basically a mirror-image for those with left-hand drive Fabias! ![]()
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| | #33 |
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| Would this also cause the air con to only blow cold when it is set to low? Anything other than the first blue bar and it blows warm and not cool. Would swapping this sensor help solve this? Thanks
__________________ One Seat Toledo TDI 110 SE and One Furby vRS.....how come the missus gets the fast one ![]() '04 Plate Silver vRS - pretty much stock apart from the Vredestein SporTrac3s! |
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| | #34 |
| Briskodian Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: hornchurch
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| great guide lads ordered part from skoda am gonna try this . ![]() |
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| | #35 | |
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| | #36 |
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| Thanks to ap0gee's 'how to' guide I replaced the sensor on my Fabia. The text and particularly the photos were especially helpful, though there were real problems locating the sensor and withdrawing it. This last step was only possible for me by using a dental-type inspection mirror and inserting a small short screwdriver down the side of the plug and breaking the plastic retaining collar. As you suggest, if only the wires from the loom to the plug were 5cms long instead of about 1cm ...! The AC now works well, though with everything set for maximum cooling the air from the ducts measures (eventually) around 2 degrees on a thermometer placed against the vents. This seems low in view of the figures you quote in your reply to AFAIK. One last query - just to show my ignorance - what is the function of the switch operated by the clutch pedal: this is the one which has to be removed to do the sensor replacement. Very many thanks for your help - without which I would not even have dreamt of attempting the task. Allan PS How do they get to the sensor in a Skoda workshop? |
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| | #37 |
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| spent yesterday replacing sensor didnt get me air con back though. broke that bloody c/l bracket but did cable tie fix ok though ![]() fault im getting on vag com now is 00898 a/c compressor open to short to b+ . anyone got any ideas thanks in advance ![]() |
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| | #38 |
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| Thanks ap0gee!!. Thanks also to dragman, whose phtograps made clear some aspects of the process (I don't understand slovenian, it's a pity ).I finally fixed my Fabia Combi air con this morning, after three hot hot summers (Madrid, Spain, you know...). You, ap0gee, can do what Skoda service couldn't (they charged me 250 euros for what they called a "servo"). I found two small problems: the damned ECU bracket and sensor's position. It was easier than I thought, after all. Here is a picture of the place and position where you can find it, right up the accelerator pedal (my steering wheel is at left). I found easier access by arranging the seat on an horizontal position and lying upwars over it. ![]() ![]() Last edited by J_J; 11-08-2008 at 07:51. Reason: Add thanks |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to J_J For This Useful Post: | ap0gee (11-08-2008)
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| | #39 |
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| Superb guide this. Just fiited my new sensor using the instructions here. The whole job took me 1.5 hours start to finish. I managed to get the E.C.U off without doing any damage at all. I did this by, after you have removed the plastic air vent (footwell air duct in step 8), get your fingers through the hole left by the duct and slide them up and forwards until you can feel the two plastic lugs that hold the ECU bracket into the metalwork, (there are two triangle shaped punched holes). Using a finger on each of the holes push onto the plastic lugs that hold the ECU bracket into the metalwork and then push the whole ECU and bracket upwards. The whole thing should slide up and pull away fairly easily as long as you push both plastic lugs at the same time whilst shoving the ECU brkt. Good Luck and once again thanks for the guide. I will add that I had to break the sensor to get it out as the wires to the plug on the sensor are so short, anyway once the end of the plug is dangling you can then see how the plug comes off and replace onto the new sensor. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Lennyz For This Useful Post: | ap0gee (19-08-2008)
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