Fabia vRS: how to change rear discs and pads

**tfboy** · 23-09-2006, 21:32

Ok ladies and gents, although this is quite a simple job once you know how to, I consider myself reasonably mechanically minded, but still needed to resort to the Master!

So when I came round to changing the second disc / pad, I thought I'd take some photos as I went along and post a guide how to do this.

Of course, usual disclaimers apply, you can use this as a guide, but I'm not responsible for your own actions

Tools required:

socket / security lock socket adaptor to remove wheels
13mm socket
15mm open ended spanner
Medium to large crosshead screwdriver
Hammer
Caliper rewind tool is highly recommended. Can be purchased from Halfords for £20. If using the Laser one, you'll need a 24mm open ended spanner and a 19mm socket for the end (I think it's 19mm).
WD40 to aid rewinding the caliper

First, take the wheel off.

Once removed, you'll be presented with the old discs / pads.

Removing the Calipers / pads

Now, fortunately, you don't have to remove the whole brake assembly, you can just remove the calipers (thanks Ross!)

Using the 13mm socket, undo the bolt at the back, top and bottom (1). You may need the 15mm spanner in (2) to stop the whole thing turning.

With the bolts removed, you can slide the calipers away from the disc. Go gently because you don't want to stress the brake lines hoses.

Once the calipers removed, remove the brake pads by sliding them to the right, away from the disc. They are kind of spring loaded held into place by the two metal platey thingies.

With the calipers out of the way, it can be worthwhile supporting them with a cable tie or box underneath not to stress the hoses too much.

Removing the disc

Now remove the small countersunk screw holding the disc against the hub. Once that is removed, the disc should come free from the hub. However, it's highly likely that with a small amount of corrosion, it's semi-welded on. Take the hammer, and tap around the extruded hub part. Eventually, the disc will unstick from the hub.

Remove the disc from the hub. It can be quite tight with the carriers still in place. Slide the disc to the left, away fom the carriers and pull. It does just squeeze past

Now's a good time with a wire brush to brush around the carriers and hub plate, removing surface rust.

Preparing / rewinding calipers for new brake pads

Unlike the front brakes, the piston moves in and out whilst rotating, so you can't just push the piston back into the caliper with a G-clamp or pliers.
Squirt a bit of WD40 on the outside of the piston. There's a rubber expansion tube that keeps most of the dust out, and that's where you should aim for. I tried to screw the piston back in without WD40, but it's very stiff and nigh impossible. With a bit of WD40, it seemed to help

If you have the laser caliper rewind tool, you'll notice the shiney plate at the end has two notches sticking out. These line up with a couple of recesses in the piston. Put the tool in place, with the U-shaped bracket in place, squeezed in and held against the other end of the calipers (where the outer disc pad is supported). Unscrew the intermediate part until the U plate is tight against the external-facing part of the caliper. Now holding the whole assembly in place, turn the thread clockwise to rewind the piston back into the caliper housing. I didn't take any photos here

but the instructions supplied with the rewind tool are fairly self-explanatory, and the terminology for the parts are better explained. (I'll edit my wording when I get the instructions out of the boot of the car

)

I actually found it useful to part-screw the caliper housing back onto the carrier to allow getting a proper purchase on the rewind tool without the whole assembly rotating in your hands

Photo below shows piston rewound back in caliper housing

Assemble back together

Take the new disc, and give it a good wipe to remove the protective film / grease it's coated in. Insert it back against the hub, feeding the right hand side through the carrier. Again, it may be a bit tight. You can put a bit of grease on the inside of the plate where it mates against the hub to assist.

Rotate the disc until the countersunk hole lines up with the thread on the hub and screw back in the little screw.

New pads

New pads should come supplied with two 13mm bolts. These have the loctite blue gluey bit on the end to hold the bolts firmly in place.

Place the pads in the carrier, against the disc, front and back. The pads may have a double-sided tape, so you can remove the paper protecting the sticky surface if it's there.

The two 15mm bolts ( (2) in the photo further up) are spung outwards, away from the caliper housing. Make sure they are not stuck.
Puting the caliper housing back on, with the piston rewound, it will go on without any problem, but you may have to push the 15mm bolts inwards to compensate for the lateral movement now you have meaty new pads on

I found the caliper housing needed a bit of persuasion to line up the holes with the carriers for the two 13mm bolts. Of course, use the new bolts supplied with the pads. It may get quite tight as you screw them back on; this is normal. Just make sure the thread is lined up - you don't want to cross-thread the calipers!

And voilà

Worth mentioning that once complete, it's worth pumping the brakes a few times before driving off; be VERY CAREFUL because the pads need to settle and the brake pedal will probably go to the floor without much braking power. I forgot to pump them initially and nearly knocked my old man's bike over

A big

to Ross for your help mate. Much appreciated

If anyone has any comments, please feel free. I'll ammend the guide accordingly

**VRStu** · 23-09-2006, 21:37

Would have been nice to remove the protective film from the new disks before you started

Could have given things a bit of a clean by the looks of it too!!

Have things improved since you fitted them?

Good to see a guide up though

Lummox · 23-09-2006, 21:37

Glad to be of technical service

All looks pretty good to me accuracy wise, top job.

And Stu is right, new discs should be throughly de greased prior to fitting.

devonutopia · 23-09-2006, 21:37

Added to favourites for use in a week or so.

**tfboy** · 23-09-2006, 21:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by VRStu

Would have been nice to remove the protective film from the new disks before you started

Could have given things a bit of a clean by the looks of it too!!

Have things improved since you fitted them?

Good to see a guide up though

Protective film

You almost had me worried for a second

At least, I didn't paint them

Worth mentioning that once complete and you drive off, be VERY CAREFUL because the pads need to settle and the brake pedal will probably go to the floor without much braking power. Nearly knocked my old man's bike over

Also, the handbrake has no bite at all because it needs to settle in a bit. Once bedded in, it will improve, but again, I'd leave the car in gear for the first week or so.

I desperately need to bed them in quickly so the handbrake has a chance of passing the MoT

And a big

to Ross for his assistance. Maybe I can get you a babygrow or something

Lummox · 23-09-2006, 21:47

Its nowt to do with the fluid settling.

The piston is all the way retracted and the pads are not mating with the disc so you have to pump the pedal until they contact. This is also why the handbrake wont work fully. Also the handbrake mechnism inside the caliper doesnt adjust fully until you have done a few miles.

***ncarring*** · 23-09-2006, 21:51

Next time, start the engine and pump the pedal a few times before setting off. You will feel it firm up quite quickly. You can remove the rustproofing with some white spirit or similar to avoid getting a nice sticky burnt on coating on the pads.

piv34uk · 23-09-2006, 21:57

As said before remove the protective film from the discs before fitting as it will clog the new pads up

Touch of copper grease would not have gone a miss either

Always pump the brake pedal several times before driving off to give yourself a solid pedal and after several miles apply the handbrake to set its level.

For more techie minded people the brake pipe should be clamped off and the bleed nipple undone before winding the piston back in
HTH
Phil Top job Xav though

Lummox · 23-09-2006, 22:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by piv34uk

For more techie minded people the brake pipe should be clamped off and the bleed nipple undone before winding the piston back in

News to me.

piv34uk · 23-09-2006, 22:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lummox

News to me.

Come on Ross, any brake work involving pushing of pistons back results in any "crud" that was lurking around being pushed back into the system, i was always told to clamp the pipe and undo the bleed nipple to allow such "crud" to escape into a bleed bottle....
Perhaps its just my old school way but i never seem to get probs with brakes unlike some people

Phil

Lummox · 23-09-2006, 22:18

Crud? You mean crud going back past the seal and piston into the fluid?

Dont really see it myself, but like you say its probably from your old schooling on Morris Oxfords and things

**tfboy** · 23-09-2006, 22:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by piv34uk

As said before remove the protective film from the discs before fitting as it will clog the new pads up

Touch of copper grease would not have gone a miss either

Always pump the brake pedal several times before driving off to give yourself a solid pedal and after several miles apply the handbrake to set its level.

For more techie minded people the brake pipe should be clamped off and the bleed nipple undone before winding the piston back in
HTH
Phil Top job Xav though

I wasn't too worried about the film, partly because I was tired, and partly because it was the rear brakes. Had it been the fronts, I would have given them a good clean. I reckon it will burn off pretty soon though. Will do a couple of high speed runs, and brake / use handbrake lightly to bed them in

There was a load of copper grease still on there, and the disc happily rotated around the hub, thanks to the previous owner

I did a search on Brisk, and remember seeing a post by Denis and it was mentioned that no need to bleed the brakes

***ncarring*** · 23-09-2006, 22:22

There's no need to bleed the brakes if you haven't touched the fluid. You should, however, monitor the level in the reservoir as you wind the piston back in, as it could overflow all over your nice engine bay paintwork (unless you follow Phil's suggestion and push the fluid out through the bleed nipple).

Personally I'm always worried about clamping brake hoses. Since most of them either have wire reinforcement, or wire outer sheaths, the potential for permanently mis-shaping them is fairly significant, I would have thought.

**tfboy** · 23-09-2006, 22:24

Thanks for the suggestions though, I feel like a numpty now

I have modified original post, so hopefully, when I do it next time, I'll do all the bits right first time

piv34uk · 23-09-2006, 22:27

I never mentioned bleeding the brakes

I only suggested undoing the nipple to allow the piston to push back easier, far simpler to allow fluid out here than push it out of the top of the reservoir....
Ross i may have 10 years on you but my training was on RS`s and cossie powered cars

Phil

**tfboy** · 23-09-2006, 22:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by piv34uk

I never mentioned bleeding the brakes

I only suggested undoing the nipple to allow the piston to push back easier, far simpler to allow fluid out here than push it out of the top of the reservoir....
Ross i may have 10 years on you but my training was on RS`s and cossie powered cars

Phil

Sorry Phil. I didn't mean bleed the brakes, I meant bleeding the excess fluid through the nipple.

jinxy72 · 05-10-2006, 15:57

bleeding the brakes isnt a bad idea anyway .... cleans the brake lines out and youll be topping up with nice clean fluid ... which alot forget to change when self servicing.

polocoupe · 16-01-2008, 17:37

Just to say a thank you to TFboy! I found this really helpful when fitting new discs and pads today.

Things I learnt after doing the first side, WD40 is the best friend you will ever have. And on another note the original "mooing" noise from when the car was new has come back after looking at the old disc and looking at the new one I think its caused by the disc slightly rubbing against the capiler, anyone else found this or should I be worried?

cav-mad-gav · 28-02-2008, 15:36

GRRRRRRRR how bloody hard are the pistons to psuh back in!
I WD40'd it up and still couldn't budge it back in at all!
I've had to abondon hopes of change the pads today and have re-fitted the very worn old ones.

Help anyone? pics of how to hold and which way to twist would be good.

mluton · 28-02-2008, 15:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by cav-mad-gav

GRRRRRRRR how bloody hard are the pistons to psuh back in!
I WD40'd it up and still couldn't budge it back in at all!
I've had to abondon hopes of change the pads today and have re-fitted the very worn old ones.

Help anyone? pics of how to hold and which way to twist would be good.

Did you use a piston wind back tool ?

23-09-2006, 21:32	#1
tfboy C+ à Paris! Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Tilehurst, Berkshire Posts: 6,139 Thanks: 13 Thanked 46 Times in 40 Posts	Fabia vRS: how to change rear discs and pads Ok ladies and gents, although this is quite a simple job once you know how to, I consider myself reasonably mechanically minded, but still needed to resort to the Master! So when I came round to changing the second disc / pad, I thought I'd take some photos as I went along and post a guide how to do this. Of course, usual disclaimers apply, you can use this as a guide, but I'm not responsible for your own actions Tools required: socket / security lock socket adaptor to remove wheels 13mm socket 15mm open ended spanner Medium to large crosshead screwdriver Hammer Caliper rewind tool is highly recommended. Can be purchased from Halfords for £20. If using the Laser one, you'll need a 24mm open ended spanner and a 19mm socket for the end (I think it's 19mm). WD40 to aid rewinding the caliper First, take the wheel off. Once removed, you'll be presented with the old discs / pads. Removing the Calipers / pads Now, fortunately, you don't have to remove the whole brake assembly, you can just remove the calipers (thanks Ross!) Using the 13mm socket, undo the bolt at the back, top and bottom (1). You may need the 15mm spanner in (2) to stop the whole thing turning. With the bolts removed, you can slide the calipers away from the disc. Go gently because you don't want to stress the brake lines hoses. Once the calipers removed, remove the brake pads by sliding them to the right, away from the disc. They are kind of spring loaded held into place by the two metal platey thingies. With the calipers out of the way, it can be worthwhile supporting them with a cable tie or box underneath not to stress the hoses too much. Removing the disc Now remove the small countersunk screw holding the disc against the hub. Once that is removed, the disc should come free from the hub. However, it's highly likely that with a small amount of corrosion, it's semi-welded on. Take the hammer, and tap around the extruded hub part. Eventually, the disc will unstick from the hub. Remove the disc from the hub. It can be quite tight with the carriers still in place. Slide the disc to the left, away fom the carriers and pull. It does just squeeze past Now's a good time with a wire brush to brush around the carriers and hub plate, removing surface rust. Preparing / rewinding calipers for new brake pads Unlike the front brakes, the piston moves in and out whilst rotating, so you can't just push the piston back into the caliper with a G-clamp or pliers. Squirt a bit of WD40 on the outside of the piston. There's a rubber expansion tube that keeps most of the dust out, and that's where you should aim for. I tried to screw the piston back in without WD40, but it's very stiff and nigh impossible. With a bit of WD40, it seemed to help If you have the laser caliper rewind tool, you'll notice the shiney plate at the end has two notches sticking out. These line up with a couple of recesses in the piston. Put the tool in place, with the U-shaped bracket in place, squeezed in and held against the other end of the calipers (where the outer disc pad is supported). Unscrew the intermediate part until the U plate is tight against the external-facing part of the caliper. Now holding the whole assembly in place, turn the thread clockwise to rewind the piston back into the caliper housing. I didn't take any photos here but the instructions supplied with the rewind tool are fairly self-explanatory, and the terminology for the parts are better explained. (I'll edit my wording when I get the instructions out of the boot of the car ) I actually found it useful to part-screw the caliper housing back onto the carrier to allow getting a proper purchase on the rewind tool without the whole assembly rotating in your hands Photo below shows piston rewound back in caliper housing Assemble back together Take the new disc, and give it a good wipe to remove the protective film / grease it's coated in. Insert it back against the hub, feeding the right hand side through the carrier. Again, it may be a bit tight. You can put a bit of grease on the inside of the plate where it mates against the hub to assist. Rotate the disc until the countersunk hole lines up with the thread on the hub and screw back in the little screw. New pads New pads should come supplied with two 13mm bolts. These have the loctite blue gluey bit on the end to hold the bolts firmly in place. Place the pads in the carrier, against the disc, front and back. The pads may have a double-sided tape, so you can remove the paper protecting the sticky surface if it's there. The two 15mm bolts ( (2) in the photo further up) are spung outwards, away from the caliper housing. Make sure they are not stuck. Puting the caliper housing back on, with the piston rewound, it will go on without any problem, but you may have to push the 15mm bolts inwards to compensate for the lateral movement now you have meaty new pads on I found the caliper housing needed a bit of persuasion to line up the holes with the carriers for the two 13mm bolts. Of course, use the new bolts supplied with the pads. It may get quite tight as you screw them back on; this is normal. Just make sure the thread is lined up - you don't want to cross-thread the calipers! And voilà Worth mentioning that once complete, it's worth pumping the brakes a few times before driving off; be VERY CAREFUL because the pads need to settle and the brake pedal will probably go to the floor without much braking power. I forgot to pump them initially and nearly knocked my old man's bike over A big to Ross for your help mate. Much appreciated If anyone has any comments, please feel free. I'll ammend the guide accordingly __________________ Xavier Last edited by tfboy; 23-09-2006 at 22:22.

23-09-2006, 21:37	#2
VRStu Briskoda Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Hampshire Posts: 19,851 Thanks: 90 Thanked 861 Times in 776 Posts	Re: Fabia vRS: how to change rear discs and pads Would have been nice to remove the protective film from the new disks before you started Could have given things a bit of a clean by the looks of it too!! Have things improved since you fitted them? Good to see a guide up though __________________ Stu - Freedom Pimp Stu's Websites - http://www.fabia-vrs.com & http://www.octavia-vrs.com Stu's Car - 2007 Octavia vRS, Race Blue, Xenons, Columbus Navigation, Rear Parking Sensors, Maxi Dot, Light Assist, Jumbo Box, 18" Alloys, Stu's Cruise Control & OEM Integrated Bluetooth Telephone. SWMBO's Car - 2008 Seat LEON TDi Stylance, Black Magic, Sports Pack, Rear Parking Sensors. Something for Weekend - 2002 Lotus Elise RaceTech, Gunmetal, Radio, Carpet Mats.

23-09-2006, 21:37	#3
Lummox Hairy Yeti Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Newport Pagnell Posts: 21,418 Thanks: 19 Thanked 574 Times in 502 Posts	Re: Fabia vRS: how to change rear discs and pads Glad to be of technical service All looks pretty good to me accuracy wise, top job. And Stu is right, new discs should be throughly de greased prior to fitting. __________________ Unit 18 now open Servicing, repairs, modifications you name it we do it. Cupra console bushes at special price, PM for a very competitive quote.

23-09-2006, 21:37	#4
devonutopia Mongreller Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Ooo-ar, Oi be from Devonshire Posts: 29,202 Thanks: 58 Thanked 288 Times in 234 Posts	Re: Fabia vRS: how to change rear discs and pads Added to favourites for use in a week or so. __________________ Jason - Mongrel owner! WOOOOF! Grrrrr Custom Fabia Bonnet Lifter Kits - £45! Click Me. See the mongrel's 260bhp Dyno Video!

23-09-2006, 21:47	#6
Lummox Hairy Yeti Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Newport Pagnell Posts: 21,418 Thanks: 19 Thanked 574 Times in 502 Posts	Re: Fabia vRS: how to change rear discs and pads Its nowt to do with the fluid settling. The piston is all the way retracted and the pads are not mating with the disc so you have to pump the pedal until they contact. This is also why the handbrake wont work fully. Also the handbrake mechnism inside the caliper doesnt adjust fully until you have done a few miles. __________________ Unit 18 now open Servicing, repairs, modifications you name it we do it. Cupra console bushes at special price, PM for a very competitive quote.

23-09-2006, 21:51	#7
*ncarring* Don't talk, drive! Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: The B roads of Britain Posts: 12,870 Thanks: 15 Thanked 86 Times in 74 Posts	Re: Fabia vRS: how to change rear discs and pads Next time, start the engine and pump the pedal a few times before setting off. You will feel it firm up quite quickly. You can remove the rustproofing with some white spirit or similar to avoid getting a nice sticky burnt on coating on the pads. __________________ Nick

23-09-2006, 21:57	#8
piv34uk NOW @ PEUGEOT Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Bicester,Oxfordshire Posts: 1,409 Thanks: 29 Thanked 35 Times in 34 Posts	Re: Fabia vRS: how to change rear discs and pads As said before remove the protective film from the discs before fitting as it will clog the new pads up Touch of copper grease would not have gone a miss either Always pump the brake pedal several times before driving off to give yourself a solid pedal and after several miles apply the handbrake to set its level. For more techie minded people the brake pipe should be clamped off and the bleed nipple undone before winding the piston back in HTH Phil Top job Xav though __________________ 1)RED ONE, FEW MODS; AND A HEALTHY 237bhp 2)GONE BUT NOT FORGOTTEN, 2ND OWNER OF THE BLACK BEAST, GOD WHAT A HOOT LACK OF PLANNING ON YOUR BEHALF DOES NOT CONSTITUTE AN EMERGENCY ON MINE

23-09-2006, 22:18	#11
Lummox Hairy Yeti Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Newport Pagnell Posts: 21,418 Thanks: 19 Thanked 574 Times in 502 Posts	Re: Fabia vRS: how to change rear discs and pads Crud? You mean crud going back past the seal and piston into the fluid? Dont really see it myself, but like you say its probably from your old schooling on Morris Oxfords and things __________________ Unit 18 now open Servicing, repairs, modifications you name it we do it. Cupra console bushes at special price, PM for a very competitive quote.

23-09-2006, 22:22	#13
*ncarring* Don't talk, drive! Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: The B roads of Britain Posts: 12,870 Thanks: 15 Thanked 86 Times in 74 Posts	Re: Fabia vRS: how to change rear discs and pads There's no need to bleed the brakes if you haven't touched the fluid. You should, however, monitor the level in the reservoir as you wind the piston back in, as it could overflow all over your nice engine bay paintwork (unless you follow Phil's suggestion and push the fluid out through the bleed nipple). Personally I'm always worried about clamping brake hoses. Since most of them either have wire reinforcement, or wire outer sheaths, the potential for permanently mis-shaping them is fairly significant, I would have thought. __________________ Nick

23-09-2006, 22:24	#14
tfboy C+ à Paris! Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Tilehurst, Berkshire Posts: 6,139 Thanks: 13 Thanked 46 Times in 40 Posts	Re: Fabia vRS: how to change rear discs and pads Thanks for the suggestions though, I feel like a numpty now I have modified original post, so hopefully, when I do it next time, I'll do all the bits right first time __________________ Xavier

23-09-2006, 22:27	#15
piv34uk NOW @ PEUGEOT Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Bicester,Oxfordshire Posts: 1,409 Thanks: 29 Thanked 35 Times in 34 Posts	Re: Fabia vRS: how to change rear discs and pads I never mentioned bleeding the brakes I only suggested undoing the nipple to allow the piston to push back easier, far simpler to allow fluid out here than push it out of the top of the reservoir.... Ross i may have 10 years on you but my training was on RS`s and cossie powered cars Phil __________________ 1)RED ONE, FEW MODS; AND A HEALTHY 237bhp 2)GONE BUT NOT FORGOTTEN, 2ND OWNER OF THE BLACK BEAST, GOD WHAT A HOOT LACK OF PLANNING ON YOUR BEHALF DOES NOT CONSTITUTE AN EMERGENCY ON MINE

05-10-2006, 15:57	#17
jinxy72 Briskodian Join Date: May 2005 Location: south east Posts: 164 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Fabia vRS: how to change rear discs and pads bleeding the brakes isnt a bad idea anyway .... cleans the brake lines out and youll be topping up with nice clean fluid ... which alot forget to change when self servicing. __________________ 03 vrs estate ( silver ) + 06 vrs fabia ( black )

16-01-2008, 17:37	#18
polocoupe Briskodian Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 105 Thanks: 4 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Re: Fabia vRS: how to change rear discs and pads Just to say a thank you to TFboy! I found this really helpful when fitting new discs and pads today. Things I learnt after doing the first side, WD40 is the best friend you will ever have. And on another note the original "mooing" noise from when the car was new has come back after looking at the old disc and looking at the new one I think its caused by the disc slightly rubbing against the capiler, anyone else found this or should I be worried?

28-02-2008, 15:36	#19
cav-mad-gav Briskodian Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Nottingham, East Midlands Posts: 350 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Fabia vRS: how to change rear discs and pads GRRRRRRRR how bloody hard are the pistons to psuh back in! I WD40'd it up and still couldn't budge it back in at all! I've had to abondon hopes of change the pads today and have re-fitted the very worn old ones. Help anyone? pics of how to hold and which way to twist would be good.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode