This is a discussion on Fabia vRS: how to change rear discs and pads within the Technical Guides forums, part of the Skoda Model Discussion Area category; Also, what is the wire/sensor that goes into the middle of the hub? Edited reply: No. I havn't got a ...
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| | #21 |
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| Also, what is the wire/sensor that goes into the middle of the hub? Edited reply: No. I havn't got a toll but would have thought you can do it without one?? Last edited by cav-mad-gav; 28-02-2008 at 15:45. |
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| | #22 | |
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| Quote:
Wire sensor is ABS sensor IIRC. Chris
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| | #23 |
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| of corse ABS.......duuuuuuuh silly me lol few quid, just looked and its £20! not paying that....i'll just nick my cousins. cheers for that though. has anyone actually managed to reqind them by hand then? |
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| | #24 |
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| You have to use a wind back tool as they "screw" back in rather than just push in.
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| | #25 |
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| This is a very good thread, it will come in handey im sure when i have to replace mine! Thanks again! John
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| | #26 |
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| ![]() Did it today, one side was very hard to start rewinding but mostly okay. Just a note though. I dont see how you managed to bolt it back to the housing while re-winding it? |
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| | #27 |
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| copper grease on the pads needed?
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| | #28 |
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| Not on the rear you cant, do that and you will bugger the ratcheting mech for the handbrake. The piston needs to be turned back in.
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| | #29 |
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| should you put some copper grease on the back of the pads?
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| | #30 |
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| YES!! Just done this today on a Polo Gti, same setup. Had to buy a rewind tool though ![]() I copper greased everything too LOL
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| | #31 |
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| Thats a great guide, mine are just about shot, as are the front ones. Do the front calipers just push back in or are they screwed too? don't want to screw the rears in correctly and mess up the front ones?
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| | #32 |
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| fronts will just push........i say just but i actually mean they will fight you and hurt you! lol |
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| | #33 |
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| thank you for sharing... |
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| | #34 |
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| What can I clean the new discs with that i'm likey to have in the house? I can't imagine i have meths in the house! Is it worth just washing it in, like wheel cleaner, washing up liquid? Might just stick them on with cleaning them.
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| | #35 |
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| I've just done it on my Octy - only difference is that because the Octy vRS rear discs are ventilated you have to remove the caliper carrier as well. This needs an 8mm hex head socket as the retaining bolts are ****ing tight! I found it easier when winding the pistons back to crack open the bleed nipple a bit (using a one way bleed tube of course )
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| | #36 |
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| ![]() Dont believe it ! I couldn't remove the old discs, No matter how many times i hit, or soaked it in WD40. Looks like the shield on the inside isnt removable either so cant really hit from the other side to help dislodge it. And i took a day off to do them. Sod it, I dont care any more i'll leave it till the service at the end of the year.
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| | #37 |
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| With the caliper removed it should give you good access to whack the back of the disk with a nice lump hammer. Always worth rotating the disk and hitting it evenley around the circumference. A couple of thwacks on the front won't go amis too, it all helps to loosen the rust. Remember to have some Wet & Dry and a wire brush to give the hubs a good clean before re-fitting the disks.
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| | #38 |
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| Yeah, though with the brake hose and handbrake cable still attached i couldnt really move it too far out of the way. Though it was more of an end on hit than a hit directly from behind. Mostly tried hitting the front and side of top hat section. I tried what i could! I was using a rubber mallet but even tried some gentle taps with a metal one just to try and help to seperate the disc.
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| | #39 |
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| That's your problem - You need something like a builders club hammer, something with a bit of presence about it. You need to hit it, not tickle it.
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| | #40 |
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| I clout em with a 3lb copper/hide mallet
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