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Ah, just seen this. In that case I'd definitely be looking for a second opinion because that looks like an attempt to generate revenue, more than anything else, to me.

Must say I think the red looks great, would be my choice over black, which looks good too, certainly better than undercoat!

Rubber valves come in several common sizes. Dumpy ones used if you are racing. TR412 Normal ones for alloy wheels or steel wheels without wheel trims. TR414 Long ones for steel wheels with wheel trims. TR418 Other sizes are also available. Your front wheels have been fitted with TR418 long valves instead of normal TR414. As above I would want then changed for the correct size. If they are to long they can get bent/broken when parking close to a kerb. Thanks AG Falco

I have, I’ll bring it with me on the night if I remember

Also in the white club 2500 miles in. Couple of changes. Eibach Pro kit fitted Milltek Cat Back VWR filter VCDS SoundAktor turned off

Me too, I wouldn't have chosen the Superb or the Karoq without the Canton option. My last car was a Volvo S60. The Superb is better in most things IMHO but the Volvo premium sound system is way better than the Canton. Volvo = better seats, much better audio Skoda = better engine, ride, handing, space Noise suppression is very similar, with both cars sensitive to the choice of tyre. Materials in the cabin and switchgear are also very similar quality, bar the carpets, where Volvo are somewhat nicer. Sorry, gone a bit off topic...

Interestingly -the car this is replacing a 2003 seat Alhambra is still going strong after 177k - no major faults only usual service items. they arranged a car via Enterprise rental I have a very Passat auto - not bad but I miss the bear.. hopefully some news tomorrow or I’ll start to push for kodi loan car. I need the extra seats. the dealer seems totally dependent on Czech factory with no way of huuying them along. thanks for all your comments pete

Good for you Skidpan , great to know that you are relaxing and enjoying life . Long may your rotors shine !

Driven like I'd just stole it for 6680 miles since collecting on the 25th August 2017, debadged, tuningboxed, pedalboxed & air intaked. Fuelly.com has its long term avg at 24.9mpg but, I Don't drive with economy in mind. Only downside is the dealer got the first 2 letters of the reg round the wrong way !!!

Had since start of November and still love it. Quality car. Dsg with canton. Just done a 500 mile round trip getting 40mpg. I know that's not important but still decent. Not driving miss daisy either

I loved the line from one of the Ford suits - ‘you’ll hardly notice the difference, except over potholes perhaps’. Definitely not a problem in the UK, then...

With unique disc hubs on rear that have a special 'extra rust ' enhancement process from factory !! .... Thank goodness for POR15 silver paint

A quick pic of the side of a 3 series BMW I did over the weekend. Just a top and tail really to remove the brush marks/scratches from snow removal !! I did however finish all the panels off with chemical guys blacklight sealant and topped off with natties black paste wax.

Cant you just turn off the auto hold button?

Everything over 150ps up to and including 220ps get 312mm at the front (vented) and 300mm at the rear (solid). The 280ps gets 340mm at the front and 310mm at the rear (both vented).

You seem to assume everyone experiences the same conditions as you, and has the same expectations. Where we live, it’s an hour drive to the nearest dual carriageway. There’s not a huge amount of traffic, especially early in the morning when most of my journeys are, but if you do get stuck behind something and don’t overtake, that’s up to an hour sat behind a lorry or caravan doing 45... My current 140bhp car can overtake things ok, but 190bhp makes overtaking much more pleasant and straightforward.

Hello all... sorry for the seriously long post, but I think you will enjoy it... Like quite a few people on this planet, that has owned the VW/AUDI/SKODA/SEAT cars with the combination of the 1.4/1.2 TSI engines of the ea211 era, coupled with the famous DSG 7 (dq200) automatic gearbox, I have also had the chance of experiencing the famous DSG slip! See the following link of first occurance: Since I have read the whole internet about either ea211 engine issues and the DQ200 gearbox issues, I thought that by now all of the problems had dissapeared, since there are practicaly no, or only a few issues that pop up from time to time after the end of year 2015, so no biggy I thought. I went ahead and bought a fabia with this combination of engine and gearbox. Then after about 5000km the situation on the video above this has occured. If you listen to it very carefully, there is also some strange mettalic like sound also present when the slipping occurs. This video was actualy taken by me to show the stealership and the skoda factory, that something is actualy wrong. Lets just say, that I had first complained to the stealership at the 6000km mark of a brand new car, that something is wrong. It took 9000 km more for me to drive this car in this state to achieve that they had changed the clutch pack and the mechatronics of my gearbox. After this dreadfull experience of waranty work from the stealership, I was again a little more exited to have a working car again (mind you that the new car experience had already been ruined at the point that it had started slipping). Well this then did not last long unfortunately... gues what... same **** happened after about 5000 km driven again. At this point I was furious. Why the F*** me!!! At this point I have yet again contacted the stealership and to their request made another video: Needles to say, that the DSG has been reset each time that I visited the stealership, off course this was totaly usles! I lost count on how many times I had to go there to either show what was the car doing. Well then I waited for abot two weeks to be contacted by the stealership, but like always they obviously forgot. I am a software engineer and of course have a work related disfunction, that I do not rest until a problem is solved, and I want at least answers of the reason for this hapening if not the solution. So here my story begins... (before I begin I would like to point out, that I had no access to VCDS or alike) For about two months I have been listening and feeling what is going on with the car during my daily comute to work and back. I have spent countles hours reading the VW SSP 511, SSP 0AM, and other documents related to this specific combination of engine and gearbox, watched the whole youtube for similar videos, read all of comment, visited all forums that had similar info, and found no concrete solution for this problem. Either sell the car or TCU or ECU tune. This was not what I wanted to do, when the car is such a joy to drive when it is working :D. After this occured the second time in this short period it had come to my head, that the gearbox may not be the actual problem... (now you might say, that I am crazy :D) Due to my studies of all available material (and also having a lot of mechanical know how from my hobbies of motocicle mechanics), I knew I had to listen to the car more carefully and also discover the exact pattern, when does this occur. At this time the most inportant information was, that heat form the engine solves the issue if the car, after is warmed up, is parked for about 10-15 min. If I drive from this point forward, the car handled like new, no slips and nothing... after about 15km (if it was cold outside, around 10 degrees celsius, or lower) the issue appeared slightly again. During the summer, the problem did however not reapear once the car was warm, higher temperatures I guess (this is I gues the exact same reason that the cnahdged gearbox parts have lasted 5000 km before the problem was again visible, I know I have been driving differently during this time). Then I thought... Heat goes usualy up and not that much to the side (the gearbox side)... simple farmers logic I guess... so a simple 15 minute stop is not enough to properly heat up some metallic part of gearbox that is also hidden somewhere between the engine and gearbox... Also the wind in this case, cannot get to the clutches and cool them of in such a short driving cicle... AHA!!!! so the problem is probably some very exposed part! So I went, poped up the hood and started looking... F***, there are a milion sensors exposed under the hood, that can be heated or cooled quite quickly... even the throtlebody as a whole unit. So I went again to the books and forums... and by the process of elimination I have either checked or tested each sensor behaviour during driving or feeling if it is operating as expected (as I said no VCDS unfortunately). All were OK as it seams. So another blind street... F*** Ok, then there was also another issue, a weird noise, that was present during so called slips. One day I came across one thread here on briskoda, that the plastic part going from the airbox to the front mask of the car can rattle. I took a piece of A4 paper, folded it to appropriate size, and put the F***** between the plastic parts (I will post a picture below). WELL,WELL... The dreaded metallic noise (this is what you hear from inside of car) had dropped by half volume! AHA... I am closer, finaly one breakthrough!!! Ok now we will go back to the heat being the primary problem solver... So now I took the high temperature air hand fan and basically heated each and every sensor on the car each day before going to work, to try to pinpoint the problematic one. I have noticed the most diference in behaviour of the car after the after turbo MAP sensor was heated before driving.... AHA! Found the little ******! So I then due to my knowledge of the engine workings I switched the two sensors that are on the intake side of the engine (yes, this car has 2 MAP sensors, and they are the same). Unfortunately there was no difference. F*** Another blind street. But wait!!!! The metallic sound had chandged (a little, by now my senses are equavilent to a german sheppard)! AHA!!! (Obviously I had moved something that caused the noise) I have also noticed that since the car travel speed is accelerating in a linear manor, that clutches are not and cannot be slipping, by this time I was 99.99% of eliminating the DQ200 from the possible suspect list (spead is measured with ABS sensors on back wheels). I have also listened and the actual engine hmmmmmmmm... sound (noise form combustion happening) and frequency did not change during problematic moments. So if I now put 1+1 together I come to the only possible problematic point can be either the turbo, wastegate, throttle body, sparks, coils, injectors,... F*** too many parts all very important. OK, proces of elimination again (Please note, that this problematic "slip" could be repeated anywhere during an 30km drive, this is a lot of time to heat the engine, and gearbox): Turbo... come on, the first one that gets the heat... wastegate... on the turbo, and also is dependent on MAP sensors mainly for its operation... throttle body... connected to loud pedal in cabin and cruise control (cruise control also did this "slip", not only the loud pedal) sparks and coils... I know a misfire and this was certenly not the issue, also one of the component that also get heated very quickly. injectors... also get heated and are quite hidden form wind fuel... gets premium all the time, so i didn't even touch this. Here we go again...F*** F*** Ok now the last weak my bloodhound eyes noticed that the "slip" occurs from 1400rpm forward on light acceleration, If i go lower there is no issue, since turbo is not active yet, if I go WOT on the loud pedal, than there is also no problem (this also means that throttle body is fully open and turbo has basically no limits during acceleration). Then I get a revelation... Of course you stupid F*****, Obviously you have a F***** turbo leak somewhere on the intake system. It all goes together now... On light acceleration the pressure has to be maintained on accurate levels in order to achieve a smooth drivability, but if the system leaks, then the system has to compensate somehow... well the result is all but smooth.... AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA F**** At this point It has also come to my attention, that with use of the MAP sensors, the ECU calculates engine load and torque produced, which is one of the most important information for the DSG gearbox to know what to do. You cannot calculate something that is all over the place to a smooth number and expect smooth results... So now I have a clear TODO list... Check all possible itake parts for possible leaks. Here comes the time for very professional tools to be used to find the leak... Air Compressor with regulator that can limit pressure to 2 bar. Turbine in this engine makes pressure in that range. Duck tape and zip-ties :D. This was totaly a DIY project. I slapped the compressor hose on the air filter housing, duck tape and zip tied all the appropriate holes where air can escape, and start filling the system... EUREKA!!! We have a hisssssing sound... Please note the spots on the picture... Then I took my trusty zipp-ties and zip-tied that part shut... Now its time for a test drive... The second I got back and steped out the car, I could saw the smug smile on my face. Not only that the by now the stupid noise has stopped, there were actually almost no visible "slips" present. The noise that I thought was a metallic source, was at the end all plastic chatter, but in the cabin all this was clearly heard as metallic noise. F*** YEAH!!! I am almost there... After dismantling these hoses from the turbo to the throttle body I have found that these hoses are designed to self destruct themself due to engine vibrations and tolerances that are just to off to hold the needed pressure. the o-ring gaskets in these plastic parts eate a channel in the plastic hoses and allow for the air to escape when cold. So waranty work is useles here, because new ones will do the same until VW does some revised parts without cost cutting, which we all know that tey will not do! At leas not for the 1.2 or 1.4 TSI engines, since they stopped production... But wait for it... The 1.0 TSI has the same overall construction and I have noticed that they have the exact same problem ... Fun stuff this... So the resolution that worked for me? I have made gaskets (donut shape) that fits inbetween these hoses where the hoses come together on the upper picture, and for now zip-tied these hoses together, but am waitng for exhaust springs to come to mail to do this properly, just like VW should done in the first place... Dismantle this yourself, buy a sheat of DIY gasket making material, and make a multi layer gasket, which can be glued together with an appropriate silicon type glue for engine block sealing like locktite. I hope you F****** from VW/SKODA/AUDI/SEAT are seing this ****, since an ordinary sw and electronics r&d engineer had to solve this issue without any support!!! Hope that you have enjoyed this article on yet another VW hickup which they cannot solve again On the other note... Why do diesels not have these issues? I think they use silicon like hoses instead of plastic, but I did not make further searches to confirm this.

I think your experience might be different on well marked roads vs for instance, dust covered Finland roads

Ok, I will not mention the air/water ballast valves then. You know, the ones you use when you want to fill your tyres with both air and water. Thanks AG Falco

Yep, Superskoda one. Think it may actually be a Yeti or Superb 'part' that happens to fit?

Great news from dealer today. Car will be with them Friday can collect on Saturday. This was a build week 11 car. 1.5 SEL manual + leather seats, heated windscreen, space saver tyre.

@Lee01 maybe send a PM - he might still respond. I still have mine, but I'm not one for the pub meets. Maybe next rolling road in October!

I suggest that all the moaners who keep insisting that the Superb is a noisy car should drive an Octavia Estate. We have tried 3 and walked quickly away from all of them, one was noisy to the point of causing the wife pain in her ears. Our Superb 1.4 TSi SE on Pirelli P7's is without doubt one of the quietest cars we have owned. The Mondeo came close decent roads (on Pirelli P6000) but that was very noisy on poor surfaces. The BMW 118d was a nice place to be and would have given the Superb a good challenge but the Leon that followed the BMW matched it and the Superb beats the Leon.

I have just been made aware of this site so apologise if I am bringing up something that has already been covered. My Karoq was ordered in the last week of January. The only information I have received is Build Week 16. When is build week 16 and what possible delivery date could that be indicating.

I did actually lightly sand off and then apply some POR15 metal Prep which further enhances the future protection once the actual POR15 paint has been applied. Marvellous stuff - I also used it (albeit the black version) during a refurb. on my old Mk1 MX5 suspension arms ..... application by brush really is quite straightforward with a steady hand and appropriate brushes e.g. short handles !!

If you think you can match Michelins or Continentals hundred million euros worth of scientific research just by sticking a bit of foam inside a tyre thats fine. If you kill yourself doing it, thats fine. If you injure or kill someone else then that's not only stupid but criminal. Make sure your insurance knows about your experimentation.

Same for me, its exactly the same as cruise control or other driver aids... You can drive happily without it but I find you are much more relaxed & fresher when you arrive especially after a long journey when it is on.

Have you asked TPS. Or more importantly, has the dealer asked TPS? Why are you getting involved in this when it's a dealer sale?

@vikingbezerker - From what's happened so far, I'd suggest running some PlusGas into the other side now. That may save you hours later.

Here you go guys.

I'm of the opinion that for the sake of a few quid it's worth using new bolts. A few stories of engine mounts failing has put me off skimping on the few quid needed.

Sorry on picture lack of quality, misty and cold, but look @ the bottom pic & in the passenger seat,

140/150 bhp would be enough for my needs. What first attracted me to Redline was there location and price. Colin

Yes, I'm sure. Funnily enough, the guy seems much happier with his 2nd hand CAVE vRS in those posts.

Hire cars are so cheep in lots of the UK that it can make sense to me to hire one for going to an airport to depart. eg. £54 for a Corsa size, £56 for a Fiesta from Arnold Clark hire, collect Glasgow 8.00am, drop off 8pm or sooner Aberdeen and get a shuttle bus to the airport. (other locations and cheaper prices / shorter journeys to a flight and the return are available.) Same sort of cost again for return trip and no Parking costs or car worry while away as your car is at home.

Sounds like some kind of speed sensor fault. Car wont go past that if its in neutral at 0mph. Or if the TC is active (which I believe uses the speed sensors/abs sensors) it does the same, might be an odd fault there somewhere. Probably worth getting it on VCDS and taking it for a spin.

You can't actually see the part number when fitted get the abs scanned and it will give part number what year is your felicia as I know there two abs pumps fitted I have seen and got both about in spares for my felicia collection

How old is the battery? Could it be sagging a bit low turning over and causing weirdness on startup? Then when you turn it off and back on again with the effective bump - there is no starter sag and the alternator is producing plenty of juice to keep everything happy so it starts without limp home mode. *utter shot in the dark.

Hi, my plan is to buy the car at the end of the 42 months and I have set aside the money for this, probably to then keep the car for another 18 months until the extended guarantee runs out as a minimum. Doing it that way the amount I am saving by not having any monthly payments for the final 18 months (about £5,750) would be more than the depreciation over that 18 month period particularly as the depreciation curve is less steep the longer I own the car. The alternative would be to hand the car back at 42 months and use the money I have for the balloon payment as the deposit for the new car but I would probably only do this if they make me an amazing offer and the Superb S4 is out. Hope this makes sense!

Many thanks Rainmaker for a comprehensive guide, I tried loading the data a couple of times using an sd card without any luck where as via usb stick first time. As I’ve the 9.2” Columbus with data sim I thought this week I would try the ŠkodaConnect route which seems also to have worked including your better looking icons. Here I followed mr.nik additional guide so its download data, unzip, upload to ŠkodaConnect site, Columbus, Skoda connect, uploads, services packs my POIs, select new POIs, Download and that’s it. Thanks also go to mr.nik as this for me seems to be an easier route without the extra visit to the VW site.

First Green VRS in Croatia finaly!

Corrects a lot of steering inputs, occasionally corrects my mistakes (they do happen) and just releases the stress of constant correcting inputs on long motorway slogs. I really miss it when I get back in my Mercedes. When you spend 3-4 hours a day driving on top of a days work you are thankful of the semi autonomous tech. I see no benefit in having the system switched off personally, but it is an option for those who don’t like the system.

I've recently renew my tyres, and I got my rims profile. It's Front: 8.5J/et45 Rear:9.5J/et45. I'm using 235/35/R19 on all 4 wheels, so the rear wheels are stretched out. I think different height tyre won't trigger the alarm, just your speedometer will not be correct. But if you just using on rear wheel, I think it's not a matter (if your superb isn't 4WD). For my Superb 2013, Skoda factory recommend is 235/35 while using 19" rims. By the way, I'm considering change my rims because two of them are deformed a little bit. And I also like my current Vossen CVT rims, it's hard to decide to replace them

Hi, I had problem as you can see above. I solved it by going to official car seller where i bought my new Octavia and they accepted my complain and i got new shift know in few days. If your car is under factory warranty they have to replace it.

Fiesta & my vrs, the st is a lot easier to make shiny!

Get the car scanned with VCDS or similar, this should give you some clues. You should also check the wires in each rubber gator between the doors and car body, they are often damaged which can cause many issues. Wiring diagrams can be found at http://erwin.skoda-auto.cz for a small fee

Summer shoes on. Better pictures to follow after the first good wash, but for now, these should do.

Not definitively but I looked into this quite exhaustively. My plan was to have the boot battery charged when the main battery was full, there are devices made (for caravans/force vehicles) for this purpose. The drawback apart from cost which I would have paid (iirc £130 ish) was cabling through the car. A sealed lead acid standard battery was going to be my choice and fitted where the 3 litre superb is, in the left boot compartment. I fitted a dashcam from new but because of my constant flat battery problems I also fitted a hidden switch so I could shut it down overnight, the blackvue battery magic device fitted did not help because as you know from your own experience, the car drained the battery overnight anyway and the camera just exasperated this. On a side note the camera paid for itself twice by catching a hit and run driver and alerting me to the damage caused to my vehicle by blade group. As of now with my car somehow fixed, I have often forgotten to shut down the camera and still the car starts the next morning. I urge you to pursue your efforts to cure the drain and then just fit a dashcam with a low voltage shut off switch. If it helps, I decided to throw money at a dashcam and have the best, I bought a twin camera system from blackvue with wifi. Very disappointed! The sd card needs formatting regularly and if you don't the date and time jump forward years (Samsung are more reliable in it than sandisk) The wifi is a joke as you cant transfer any files via it. The rear camera often gives a psychedelic picture despite being sent back under warranty with no fault found. Picture quality is good but other much cheaper cameras are as good, probably better by now. Gps, route map,parking mode and incident recording are all excellent.

It's a bugger when this happens. The part number, I think, is 6Q0199294D for an offside console, which should help with an ebay search. 6Q0199294J is how genuine ones are sold from VAG now, which includes the console bush (1K0407183E version), ready-fitted. About £105 from TPS I seem to recall. Various cheaper options for new pattern parts surely can be found, and secondhand is an option if you can be confident that the thread you're having trouble with hasn't been damaged in the part's past life. You'll also be wanting a new one of the long bolt that's currently stuck, N 10640301.