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Picked the car up yesterday, pleased with the colour!

Sounds like condensate from AC.

Hello, are you aware that VAG have revised the cambelt replacement interval? - IIRC, it is no longer fixed at 5 years. There is extensive information on other sections of the forum.

As Ootohere states, to get a meaningful reply you should really tell us what your car will be. However, I'll relate my experiences with a VW ID.4 (closely related to Enyaq). I have had mainly very fast DC charges where conditions allow, up to 160kW and often over 100kW. It helps to understand what it takes to get a fast charging session and make sure you get as many of those factors lined up. Charger capable of your max charge rate or more - I think you know this but some folks still pull up to 50kW chargers and expect 100kW because their car can do it! Arrive with low State of Charge - The lower the better from a charging perspective. No need to worry about going below 20% SoC if you are going to immediately charge so go as low as you dare without running out. All my best charge sessions have been from below 10% SoC. Arrive with a warm battery - The chemical reaction in a battery to store electrons happens faster at higher temperatures. Unless your car has battery pre-conditioning (pre-heat) there is little you can do about this. Warm days definitely help but a long motorway cruise hardly affects the battery temp. You will get better speeds after a drive on a cold day than if you charged very first thing but the improvement is not great. On a long trip, you may find the second and subsequent rapid charges are faster due to the heating effect of rapid charging on the battery. Only charge enough for what you need - rapid charging slows as the battery fills up and on SOME cars it can tail off dramatically. Get to know where the 'drop off point' is for your car, over which it's hardly worth hanging on to the charger. For my car its about 87%. If speed of charging is the aim, move on when charging tails off and drive to your next charger. Some chargers share power - Related to point 1. Some chargers allow two cars to plug in simultaneously but their maximum power output is shared. Thus a 150kW charger might only give 75kW max to each car plugged in. Avoid these if you want max speed. No doubt others will refine / add to these points but I hope it gives an idea.

I though Dave & Nige had freed us from the EU or did I get that wrong?

A MINI Cooper S or JCW petrol FWD or AWD getting 36 mpg on super unleaded @ £7 a gallon could go 108 miles for £21. If you get 45 mpg then near 2.5 gallons @ £7 is £17. A quick diesel getting 55 MPG 110 miles from 2 gallons for £14. MINI Cooper Electric, Remember, figures are 32.6 kW/h battery with 28.9 usable supposedly. Starting from 100% from home nearly always, or sometimes just 99%. So counting 30 kWh needed for 110 miles. 110 miles from home charger, £6.60 110 miles from a 31 pence AC £9.30 110 miles from a 37 pence DC £11.10 110 miles from a 45 pence Tesla £13.50 (Offpeak) 110 miles from a 55 pence AC / DC £16.50 Edinburgh. 110 miles from a 62 pence PodPoint £18.60 110 miles from a 63 pence BP Pulse £18.90 (GeniePoint off peak.) 110 miles from a 65 pence PodPoint £19.50 110 miles from a 69 pence BP pulse £20.70 110 miles from a 75 pence Evyve £22.50 110 miles from a 79 pence ..............£ £23.70 the likes of Osprey, Grid Serve, GeniePoint. 110 miles from a 85 pence InstaVolt £25.50 Mostly setting off with the 99% if at a cheaper public charger. examples from the last 6 charges, but pretty much how it is from having got the car. Arrive at a charger after 80 miles with 32% battery showing 27 miles range, and it takes 22 kWh to get back to 99% shows 95 miles range. Arrive at a charger after 70 miles with 43% battery showing 42 miles range, and it takes 17 kWh to get back to 99% shows 99 miles range. Arrive at a charger after 75 miles with 43% battery showing 43 miles range, and it takes 20 kWh to get back to 99% shows 109 miles range. This how it is most of the time of not hanging about, having the heating set at 16*oC & AC on now and again. Sport mostly, low regen, occasional cruise control and into Mid or Green mode following having been spirited driving and the range dropping fast. The car shows this, the kWh paid for is usually less than this as the car rounds things up. 109 miles divided by 3.3 miles a kWh is about where i am. I can get 4 miles to a kWh on slow roads, so 30 x 4 = 120 if needs must. There will be a bit more left but i have never been to less than 5 miles left.

In the ideal world, you'd navigate somewhere and the car builds in ideal charging stops, typically arriving at 10-15%. In the real world, I navigate to destination and the car builds in ideal charging stops. But less than half way to the first charging stop, people in the car wants a rest stop so I select next supercharger and stop there. With a Tesla vehicle and Tesla's supercharger network, I personally try to stay within their charging network for fastest, easiest and cheapest charging experience. It's as simple as park up, plug in and walk away. I don't feel the need to seek out alternatives with current state of network and pricing. Everything Lucky lists are true for achieving fastest travel time, but end of the day occupants of the car dictates what happens on the day. Just plug in whenever parked for rest stop and you'd be golden. Similarly, I also don't public charge much. 93% of my charging is via AC and most are at home 7.5p/kWh. I try to leave home with as much as possible and arrive home with as little as possible. Trusting the car's built-in arrival estimate, which has never failed me.

Oh and for reference, My peak charge speed ever was 164kW on a Tesla V3 charger in France. That soon dropped as the battery got hot (32C outside temp) and gave an average charge speed over the session of 95kW delivering 52kWh to the car. My best average was at the Tesla charger at Folkstone Eurotunnel of 110kw delivering 48kWh to the car (peak power was 145-ish but maintained it longer). I consistently get close to 50kW from 50kW chargers and 75kW from 75kW chargers if below 60% SoC. I don't rapid charge a lot compared to some, so I do think about it in order to optimise things.

Oh, thats a possibility I should have thought about. Especially as my backup car (old range rover) is currently in the garage awaiting a new donut after the old one failed catastrophically. It is a possibility for sure.

Honey bee

We bought a new Skoda Fabia 2023 last week. We live in Sweden and the short version of the owners manual that we got a printed version of is in Swedish. My husband is Canadian (doesn't read/speak Swedish) so we have been trying to find a PDF of the English version to download but failed. The only owners manual we can find is the extensive online interactive version but we want the short version printed to have in the car. We talked to the car dealer, Skoda Sweden but no one can help us. Is there anyone who might be able to refer us to a link or advice on how to get an English copy?

Apologies...... I missed that in your post.

Because as far as I've understood, that port is only powered on ignition. So as soon as the ignition is off and car is locked, the camera won't have power for parking mode?

🤪 Yeah, that’ll be Colchester, Graham!! 🙄

Ah that's great info for me to get stuck in with the multimeter- thanks beasty, much appreciated!

so take it past where you want to be and then press the B button and bring it back down 1mph/kph at a time ;o) That said I find with the Adaptiveness of it 5mph increments are just fine

I'm guessing yours is different to mine, but just in case... Knock the lever up, it increases in fives. Pull it towards you, increases in ones. Mine does anyway

I know I definitely used the fuse for the boots 12v socket for the permanent live, I'm not sure which I used for the switched wire I'm afraid. I've not had the car for almost 2 years now or I'd have gone and had a look. I think fuse 52 is the 12v, and you could use the rear wiper fuse if you have one? Not sure if the socket is wired up if you have the hatch, worth looking. Rear wiper is fuse 66 I believe.

If i done something and works i will mention it in public, i don't i will also mention it, there is no reason to hide anything. for example i had 48mm exhaust pipes and muffler, i had gain in high rpm but loses in low-middle, i admit it and when i found the chance i ask for 45mm installation, i lost something in high rpm and also mention it. I haven't see any Felicia driver to work inside his air filter box, i took a risk and i succeed, i admit that in 3rd gear and 2000 rpm in uphill the previous ''situation'' was one click better but i had to make a comprimise. I cut a part of that plastic cover, i always hate it, now i have better access to lubricate the throttle wire plus that cover and one plastic hook were pushing a bit that cable, not it's more ''free'' and i can also lubricate anytime i want the part of the cable that it's visible from the plastic hose till the bushing.

Great for you. Do enjoy your trip to Bordeaux in style. What side of the overhead console is the USB-C socket located, please?

So...had my 2.0TSI estate for nearly 7 years now (bought from someone on here). It was remapped to 260bhp by me after about a month as standard... and has been great. However after engine light kept coming on this year, I decided to invest in a new manifold (which fixed it) and new Koni dampers and new springs. Intention to keep another few years at least. And what a transformation! The car is back to life. Handling much improved, the old suspension passed mots fine but must have been very tired. The ride which was on a par with my 2018 Fiesta ST is now really smooth. Really happy as it is still an immaculate car and much more stable in every way. Going to buy the racechip pedal box to improve the throttle response (to make getting out the ST that bit less of a shock!) and I have a family car I'm genuinely happy with, owned for 2 years longer than anything else I've had.

why single out big powerful ICE vehicles, this is all new vehicles. Ah lots of other Nanny features being mandated as well. In addition to speed limiters, the new EU regulations include other safety features like autonomous emergency braking, black box technology, emergency stop signals, driver fatigue detection, lane keep assist, built-in breathalysers, and reversing sensors or cameras DOn't get me wrong I like a good gadget as much as the next man but it becomes a Nanny system when it's mandated by law IMHO

One word; differential . If one driveshaft is now effectively disconnected, you'll get no drive to either wheel.

Yes I certainly will be!

Recently manufacturers uses these to allow them to move the wheels further outward since there’s a minimum gap required between the tire edge and the fender . I’ve installed 12.5 mm spacers on my car which makes the tire closer to the fender and if I use these pads will make my car legal.

Thanks for the replies everyone. €1200 seems a great price. I just heard back from my local ŠKODA main dealer and was quoted £2690 😳 When I questioned the price, I was told the price for the flywheel alone is £1100. Had a look on AUTODOC and for a luk clutch kit and flywheel it’s around £650. I think I’ll keep shopping around!

If it ain’t broke….. Wait until the service then any potential issues and it’s the dealer’s responsibility.

Help the mostly in high rpm by the way, already tested for a while in Highway. For sure in my summer trip but i will try for a test earlier.

@Telgolf any chance you can share what the quotes were on the TDI and was it belt and water pump. ? Do you think you were asking a service person that might not of known about the schedule for cambelt changes? There every working day answering enquiries as it is their job and know nothing much about cars! Guidance did change last year as more and more 1.5 TSI ACT,s were coming up for Cambelt changes in the UK and many were getting traded in rather than people paying the £1,000 or more some Dealers wanted. The Dealerships were not all equipped to do the Cambelt Change that had been the Golden Goose or Cash Cow in the UK with the VW / Skoda advice, recommendations or schedule unique to the Dust Free UK. Anyway. They say all Cambelts, or people think all Cam Belts. You decide with a car that is a keeper, a TDI rather than a TSI. As long as tensioners last as long as belts then fantastic. If everything in life was a reliable as Volkswagens components and how deaf dumb and blind VW are then who knows where the world would be. Cam Belt Guidance change (1).pdf

I'd agree with the above and would suggest it's probably just the rear rubber doughnut coupler that has gone, based on a similar experience with our mkIi TDI 4x4 Ours was most noticeable at about 2300rpm in 6th which was around a 75mph cruise on the motorway. Under load when accelerating it was very loud.

There's a huge database of car manuals on this website https://carmanuals2.com/ Skoda Fabia manuals (in many languages) are provided beginning in 2004 and ending in 2021. This link is to a downloadable .pdf file containing an English-language Fabia Owner's Manual with a November 2020 publication date. https://carmanuals2.com/skoda/fabia-2021-owner-s-manual-116475 A 2021-model Fabia won't be an exact match for your 2023 car, but your husband may still find the information in the earlier manual helpful. The back page of my Skoda's Owner's Manual carries the warning "Printing, reproduction, translation or other use of this work or any part thereof is not permitted without the written consent of Skoda Auto a.s. All proprietary rights in this work arising from copyright regulations shall be exercised exclusively by Skoda a.s." I don't know how carmanuals2.com acquires its data, but I'm doubtful it's with Skoda's authorisation. Anyway, the carmanuals2.com website exists and, if you keep an eye on it, you might well find that a more up-to-date Fabia Owner's Manual is posted there soon.

Those with an EV like you have are best placed to comment, Best say what size of Battery / Car you are talking about. Is it an Enyaq 80? Max charge rate and which vehicle or chargers are relevant. There are vehicles that can max charge only at 50, 100, 125, or greater kW, then 200-350 kW chargers for cars that can take that or it is about amps The 20-80 sweet spot is a nonsense. If you have big battery then getting down to 10% left and the battery pre-conditioned or not has the charger ramping up faster, then the charge might still be fast enough up to 90%. But 10%-70% might be quicker than 20%-80%. You getting the same amount of electricity. So if you want range, 5%-75%, or to 8%, or more. If the charger is only putting out 48kW then maybe best take enough tio get to an Ultra Fast charger. As to power use, you might just be in stop / start traffic for miles and never getting above 10 mph or even 15 mph and using almost none of the charge in the battery. Then the difference of going 65 mph compared to 70 mph, or 75 mph can be surprising. For poorer efficiency. But then it is vehicle dependent, and if there are uphills there are down hills and regening, coasting and going quicker and regening can be good on the range. EDIT / PS Sorry, i see that you say your EV has a max 90 kW charge rate. ? What car is it? Comparing charge rates, or average charge rates of a Tesla & a Tesla on a Tesla Supercharger as in the roadtrip thread is not much help for many other cars / batteries or Chargers of 100 & 100 plus kW. I am away to charge to 98% with a small battery and at 37 pence a kWh because the next charge will be 79 pence a kWh and i will just charge at that cost enough to get me on a Tesla Supercharger non Tesla and paying around 50 pence a kWh. Next charger might be 63 pence a kWh. If i can use less use of expensive charging for me that makes sense. It still is costing more than running a diesel. This is me with a Max 50 kW charging rate and some are good until pretty full at a high charge rate and can be on 50 kW chargers, and some 50,s or 100, 100 plus are not great even from a low battery state and might not ramp up much above 30 kW,s. PPS. Pithed off as DC CCS charger and the only one out of service and had to use the 11 kW AC. Not in a hurry luckily. Horrible horrible weather with high winds and rain so can expect maybe 35 miles for each 10 kWh. That is ok when 37 pence a kWh but not 79 pence.

regarding DCC, as @ApertureS already indicated - it will mess up other systems in ur car if u simply "DCC Delete Kit" it. specifically headlights, ABS and steering. see image below. i have a MY17 Superb aswell. when i first got it, i had it in Individual Drive mode (DCC was set to Sport) 100% of the time. after 2 yrs later i put Eibach Pro-kit springs. I was now in Individual mode 80% of the time. a yr after that i discovered the DCC Re-calibration process. since that, i was in Normal mode 80% of the time. a yr after that i did the DCC Slider Mod. since that, in Normal Mode 95% of the time. 5% i'm in Individual mode, but this time the DCC setting in my Individual Mode is set to Comfort++ if i were u, i would get replacement OEM DCC shocks, and get the DCC Slider Mod if u can. combined cost i'm sure it will b way cheaper than sourcing aftermarket adaptive dampers.

I bought a set of Škoda rubber mats (including one for the boot) for the Scala. Very effective they are too!

Rather then starting a new thread, I would have suggested posting here: 1900 isn't that old. 1896 is a pretty common version that came before it. However, the update to 1941 is certainly worth it. You should have no issues updating to 1941 and then to 1969 - however, like someone else will inevitably point out, you do this at your own risk. Go to the aforementioned 1969 thread and follow the information for installation.

In some markets with bad roads, they fit 185/60R15 6Jx15 ET38 5/100 57.1 and 195/55R16 6Jx16 ET40 5/100 57.1 to the Rapid. 195/55R16 is one of the cheapest 16" tyre sizes. However, for the 7Jx16 ET46 5/100 57.1 rim, 205/50R16 could be considered. A 7J rim is a little wide for the 195/55R16 tyre size, with 6J and 6.5J being the usual rim widths for the 195/55R16 tyre size. Here are some examples of summer tyres in the 205/50R16 87V size. Hankook Ventus Prime4 K135 205/50R16 87V (Euro label C A 69dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m62b0s300p212192/Hankook_Tyres_Car_Hankook_Ventus_Prime4_K135_205_50_R16_87V_RPB_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_69dB Michelin Pilot Sport 3 205/50R16 87V (Euro D A 71dB) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/tyre/Michelin/Pilot-Sport-3/205-50-R16-87V/R-261807 Uniroyal RainSport 5 205/50R16 87V (Euro label C A 71dB) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/tyre/Uniroyal/RainSport-5/205-50-R16-87V-EVc/R-402359 Vredestein Ultrac 205/50R16 87V (Euro label C A 69dB) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/tyre/Vredestein/Ultrac/205-50-R16-87V/R-441642 Unlike the 205/50R16 size, there's a good selection of all-season tyres in the 195/55R16 size. Here are some examples. Continental AllSeasonContact 2 195/55R16 87H (Euro label B B 71dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m139b0s7952p221968/Continental_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Continental_Conti_All_Season_Contact_2_195_55_R16_87H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_B_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_71dB Michelin CrossClimate 2 195/55R16 87H (Euro label C B 69dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m139b0s7952p208526/Michelin_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Michelin_Cross_Climate_2_195_55_R16_87H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_A_Noise%3A_69dB Vredestein Quatrac 6 195/55R16 87H (Euro label C B 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m139b0s7952p202114/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac_6_195_55_R16_87H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB For the 195/55R16 tyre size, you could look at the 6Jx16 ET35 5/100 57.1, 6Jx16 ET38 5/100 57.1, and 6Jx16 ET40 5/100 57.1 rim sizes from the Scala/Kamiq. 6Jx16 ET35 5/100 57.1 and 6Jx16 ET38 5/100 57.1 are available from the Scala/Kamiq as alloy rims, and 6Jx16 ET35 5/100 57.1 and 6Jx16 ET40 5/100 57.1 are available from the Scala/Kamiq as steel rims. I would probably go for the ET35 offset, because that is available as both a steel rim and an alloy rim...so for example, you could use four alloy rims and one steel rim as a spare...and the offsets would all match. 16" alloy rims from the Skoda accessory catalogue https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kola/c/alloyWheels?sort=priceAsc&q=%3AscoreDesc%3AcarType%3AScala%2B%282019%2B%29%3ArimDiameter%3A16#

Hi hard acceleration from standing still and when already driving on sport mode regular asphalt road It's only happens on hard acceleration doesn't matter the road no eco option on fabia 2022 I have in fact a mechanics handbreak haven't checked pressures tailgate fully closed Regarding any menu options i don't think there are any

For 2021 on Karoq you need a A335H not a A331H

This should not be affected by how you lock the door. When you open the drivers door after being parked a few hours the fuel pump primes the system ready for starting when you open the drivers door. Before any key in Ignition or keyless starting. Listen closely next time as you open the door.

the same story with extended comments -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/510961-2023-280ps-lk-replaced-2016-220ps-style/?do=findComment&comment=5854160

Hello and welcome VRS Gaz

Hello, I've just joined the forum. Have owned a 2003 Octavia vRS estate for just over a year now. It's an oldie but a goodie, very happy with the car and hope to keep it going for a long time to come. Cheers all.

If anyone finds thos topic still actual, I had the same problem. Thing is, you need to match sw version (or higher) of clockspring. As I tried to replace my spring on kodiaq Which had the sw code 235. I tryed genuine valeo spring with sw code 195 and it didin’t worked. I had coding problem same as mentioned at this thread before where first coding number which was responsible for cruise control fuctions gave me an headache. Lucky me, at workshop we found one spare from 2021 octavia, which had same sw235 code and it took 6414 code I needed. Older sw versions just doesn’t support coding of cruise control by separate handle behind the wheel. They support vags who have autopilot controls on steering wheel. As on newer sw versions, vag included both steering wheel and separate handle autopilot coding.

You’re not wrong. Everything works and it is a mk3

I did it and i love them

Took down my old summer house and been doing several trips to the tip I got fed up with the tarpaulin I was using falling down so bought a hippo bag medium (1.8m long x 90cm wide, fits rather well with the seats folded down 😁

Feedback: Much to my surprise I got the alternator out with too much trouble. (Very pleased with my self, as it was the first time I did anything like that on a car) The drive-belt was a bit tricky as I did not have the prober torx-bit to hold the small pulley thats mounted to spring. I did not have the correct size brushes, but I did have some spare brushes for a makita belt-sander. With a bit of saw-file-work they fitted fine and was easy to solder. 100Km later and the car is running fine(*). - no more battery-symbol-warnings in the dash *"Fine" as in: that specific problem is gone 😉 Thanks for the support. Kind regards Troels

Fabia MK3 1.2tsi 90 SE L, Grey Previously owned a MK2 1.4Tdi (loved that car!)

Mine flashes red when close to the car, pretty sure it's normal as the key and car can see each other.

Third attempt was successful. Got to say the whole configuration was frustrating (shame on you Skoda🙈) - sharing my experience with Bolero & Andorid 10 (Samsung S10E), hope it helps someone! Step 1 - Android Auto preparation 1) Install Android Auto (if not available for you in the Play Store, it is very easy to find it via Google) 2) Open Android Auto on your phone, go to 'Settings' and click 10x on the 'Version' text [Observe the app says something like 'Dev mode enabled' once finished tapping] 3) Click the three dots on the left top corner and select 'Developer Settings' 4) Check 'Add wireless projection to settings' 5) Go back to 'Settings' and select 'Enable wireless projection' Step 2 - Android phone preparation 1) Open you phone Android Settings and select 'About Phone' -> 'Software information' 2) Tap 5x times on the 'Build number' text [Observe the app says something like 'Dev mode enable' once finished tapping] 3) Go back to 'Settings' and click 'Developer options' 4) Enable 'Mobile data always active' option Step 3 - Connecting AA & the car 1) Enable WAN in the car 2) Connect your phone to the car network 3) Open Android Auto on the phone [At this moment, it should be possible to, at least, open AA on the car display and see icons of Google maps, calendar etc.] 4) Click on Google maps on the car display and try to navigate to some location. If the navigations shows crossed-out icon and says something like 'you are offline', continue on step 5) Otherwise congrats, you've made it! 🙃 5) On your phone, go to 'Settings' -> 'Connections' -> 'Wifi', click the three dots on the top left corner and select 'Advanced' 6) Select 'Switch to mobile data' -> 'Network exceptions' 7) Remove the name of the car network from the exceptions list At this moment, you should be able to use wireless AA while being on your phone data 👍 p.s. Bits and pieces from other threads in this forum were used here