wilsonian

A good service (cam belt etc), have a garage (or yourself) check the console bushes and if required replace them with solid units (Powerflex are the easiest to install for a home install). Clean the EGR valve and sort out any common issues it has (leaking rear windows, Coolant sensor issue etc etc). Once you know the car is in good running order then you can "hence" certain things. Personally I'd suggest a rear anti-roll bar from Jabba sport but the whiteline is just as good (so I've read on here - I have the Jabba). Then add 312mm brakes. pointless increasing the power when the brakes than come with the vrs as poor!

depends, if the lacquer has just come off then you might get away with a clear coat - otherwise you'll be best of getting it sanded and resprayed. Thats what I'm thinking about as I've ran the car about a year without the lacquer on.

The fixing of the box can be an issue. I had to buy a second box as one of the clips broke :-(

The profile has to be 40 - anything higher and it'll rub. Personally I run 215 with my spiders but many people run 205 fine. I've also found Toyo TR1's will wear out pretty quickly on the outsides (full tracking etc checked) yet Hankook V12's seem to wear better.

The SE is racing blue so a green strip wouldn't be good. I'd double check with the garage that they'll refit a dark sun strip.

I beleive this is pretty common as mine had the same build up.

Good to hear you got it back on the road and thanks for posting a resolve

if the sound is present when the engine is running but not moving it could be low on oil. I'd do the usual service checks and if possible get under the car to see if you any kind of leaks. If the noise is only present when your moving it could be a wheel bearing.

mine does the same but I haven't got round to sorting it out. Let us know how you get on.

it unclips but can be pretty tought to remove. I beleive you need a OEM blade to replace it.

I beleive the Audi A3 has similar springs. It's mentioned here: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/137832-handbrake-cable-issue-on-my-vrs/

Am I right in thinking one of the badges needs to be curved and would be a different code?

+1 for product codes Mines taken a few stone chips on the front so could do with a change.

mine went while the car was in warrenty and they refused to repair it as they claimed the damage was outside to inside - thus not part of the paint cover warrenty.

what lights are you going for?

I doubt it'll have pins as it means a different wing for each model (EG the vRS doesn't have side badges). Personally I'd take it off. If it does have a hole then just get some double sided tape/pads and refit the badge

OK here is a full run down as to what I did: Drained the oil into clean container. Alot of people say don't save it but the oil is a month old. Once drained removing the sump plug is difficult. Most of the bolts use a 10mm head excpet a few which we needed to move the dog mount to access. Also four bolts are pretty deep near the gear box and a nightmare to remove. we ended up grinding down a spare 10mm 1/4 socket on a wobble arm and after much fiddling we finally got all 4 out. Once the sump is off wipe out all the left over oil with rags or tissues. clean up the contact areas on both the bottom of the engine block and the sump. Now as I was saving the sump we had to follow the steps for the v-coil. Drill out the old thread, and re-tap the hole. apply the coil and snap off the end tag (these stages are covered in the youtube video). We then fitted the new tap system and used thread lock to secure the unit. The liquid gasket needs to be fitted within 5 minutes of applying so read the instructions on the product you buy. Refitting the sump is the reverse of removal. Once done pour in the saved oil and leave for 10 minutes, then top up as required. This is what happens when alloy sumps are used... :(

OK I know this is an old thread but I like to keep people updated (in case anyone sees this using the search function). Things I've learned Sump Plugs are M14 with a thread of 1.5. The gasket is a fluid version and can be purchased from either skoda or a good parts dealer. http://www.quickvalve.co.uk/ - these chaps sell the fumoto qwikvalve and it fits the fabia perfectly. Granted you'll need the extension section and I opted for the clip to stop the tap from moving, but once you enter which car you have they list the parts required. How I resolved the fault: I purchased a V-Coil tapping kit for the M14 1.5 (be careful - alot of kits are for the 1.25 thread). I also had to purchase a 14.5mm HSS drill bit. The guide to using this kit can be found on youtube. Once the new thread was created I inserted the qwikvlave with a little thread lock.

The sump should be fine but make sure it comes with the fluid gasket seal. I've just had mine off and the gasket seal isn't a "normal paper etc" one.

I beleive they are but the car would sit a tad lower - IIRC the vRS springs sit about 15-20mm lower than the standard ones.

cheers fella

Pretty sure the clamps should have a marking on them that u can google :-)

Think in future its a torque wrench all the way Just to confirm - does anyone know the pitch of the tread for a sump plug? I've seen kits with 1.25 & 1.5 listed :(

D'oh - I'll remember that in future. Does anyone know a place that sells Steel sumps as all i can find are alu ones. Also is the sump plug thread m14 1.25 or 1.5?

I re-used the old one as normal but this time I think I over tightened it. :(