wilsonian

Follow up post: So we stripped the wishbones off and the anti-roll bar bushes (again they were powerflex). We cleaned up the units, and re-fitted using silicone grease as there wasn't any copper slip left from the first install. No wonder they were creaking. Just come back from a test drive and all seems well with the bushes. I did find a leak on my power steering so thats another topic.

I think you've just had a bit of bad luck. It also depends if you do the work your self or get a garage to do it. Personally I try and do it myself with the help of my father.

I have thought about the ARB bushes but they too were replaced with power flex ones. Alot of other VAG forums have people complaining about the noise Poly bushes make and TBH they were pretty good for the first few years. I'm hoping to do a strip down soon and re-grease everything (inc the ARB bushes). Hopefully that would kill any noise.

Hello, For the past few months my suspension has been making a creaking noise when I go over speed bumps etc. Yesterday I tried applying some silicone spray to the console bushes (front and rear) but unfortunately this didn't make a difference. I'm now considering striping down the area and re-applying the grease (they have been on the car around 3-4 years). The question I have is this: would normal copper grease be OK (as I did originally) or should I use a silicone based grease (and if so what type?). Thanks

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-AUDI-312mm-calipers-discs-and-pads-MK4-GOLF-TT-S3-/271322705980?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f2c17f03c I purchased a set like this from this company. Sure it might look a little pricey but you get everything you need, all nice and clean and in one box. They also do different colours if you want red or green etc.

Not sure this would apply as this was on my vRS but there are two bolts near the gearbox which will cause you a little trouble. Best use a wobble head socket to give you a little movement. We also had to trim a 10mm socket head down as it was slightly too long - prob just our size of heads. HTH.

+1 to this. The sensor is housed inside and can only be replaced by fitting a new tank. Their pretty cheap (around £15). Always buy new, don't get a 2nd hand one off a scrap yard.

a hair dryer also helps soften up the glue.

if u are going down the oil can route it seems to split. either buy a cheaper can which runs at 13-15mm pipe or pay double for a 19mm can which doesn't restrict air flow. both arguement's have + and - points. I'm hoping to fit a catch can this year and clean out my EGR as I know it hasn't been touched since new.

Yep, spoke to Claybank skoda and they said that because it's classed as damage from the outside to the inside it's NOT covered under any type of warranty.

I seem to have the same issue. At first I've put it down to the solid console bushes I've fitted but I seem to get noise when turning as well. It maybe because the shocks haven't bee used in a while.

Personally I think white would look pretty good on red.

Well my mums non-vrs fabia TDi has just required new shocks due to it failing the MOT yet mine have passed and we're at similar miles (if not mines done a bit more). The creaking at the front could be my steering rack as I've noticed it only makes a noise over uneven ground when turning.

Did you replace them? The bushes are about 2-3 years old at most. :(

Over the past few months my Fabia has started to creak more and more as I go over speed bumps or go round corners (note this isn't at speed). Issue one - The front. Personally I think it's due to the Powerflex front rear console bushes. They're the solid two parts and when I sprayed them with PTTF lube they dropped in noise for about a week. Issue two - The rear. I have a Jabba sport RARB fitted and sprayed the bushes but this didn't resolve the issue. The car has done 79k and over it's life time had the front anti roll bar bushes replace, the drops links, the track rod ends, new wishbones with ball joints and wishbone bushes (both front and back). Does anyone elses fabia complain when driving on our lovely pot holed roads? Oh and it's still on the OEM shocks.

Maybe clean the EGR system if it hasn't been done before. Not service affecting but it wouldn't hurt the car

Is it possible for you to do a guide? Thanks for listing the parts

Is that a catch can you have installed there? If so what type is it and how was it fitted?

Get the car in the air and check you CV joins. If their OK (with the wheels on full lock both ways) then as mentioned it could be the drop links or I have heard the anti-roll bar getting caught and might need new bushes.

Maybe check the wear on your pads and discs as well.

I stupidly left mine in a cupboard in the garage (gets direct sunlight in the monring), came to it a few weeks ago and it's melted inside the case... d'oh.

The question you need to ask yourself is do you want more power or are you wanting to just keep it "ticking over". If it's ticking over replace with a Garrett and carry on. If you want more power I'd advise replacing the Brake and Intercooler first. You wont' notice anything in power wise but is gets the car ready for when you change the clutch and turbo, plus the price of it all wont hit your wallet in one go. Also I've heard people changing out the injectors at the same time.

I got there set a few years back - slightly cheaper as well. Got a lovely red set (to match the SE's OEM setup) and they've lasted well. You need to bleed the system but it's not that hard. If u have a mate, missus etc to press the brake pedal for you it's ok.

I had mine where they listed the engine bay as having a lower cover - never had that on my MOT before. Also my drivers side seat belt is freyed slightly.... :(

I've used 215/40 on 17" spiders. Don't go for 45. Simple. Try looking at the Hankook V12's