Jabbasport 1.8t Induction Kit

[llblake]

Anyone tried this or other kits, such as K&N, Piper etc?

I have heard that it is better to leave the standard filter because of the sensors problems also the power gains aren't all that great?

Any thought are ideas about this?

Later

LLB

[FabiaTDi]

Does it have a heat shield/cold air feed? Drawing hot air from the engine cant be good.

These type of kits seem expensive considering the increase in power is minimal.

I fitted JR filter but this is in the original air box. There seemed a very small difference (but it might just be a placebo effect)

I've noticed that air filters in turbo engines get clogged very quickly, which is the main reason I got mine as I can clean it between services.

I've read strories about MAF sensors failing after oiled filters have been fitted.

[stathap]

I ummed and aarred over a direct induction kit but then gave up the ghost for fear of the old warranty.

Instead, I plumped for a drop in replacement K&N panel filter cause I was a bit bored and happened to pass RoadRunner one day with a spare

[llblake]

I am of the opinion that the performance gain doesn't justify the outlay of cash, just wanted to know if anyone has changed the orginal filter (I belive one of our Swedish friends tried the BMC induction kit). Also I think FabiaTDi is correct that replacing the orginal air filter with a non-oil based filter can cause the MAF to fail on the RS?

Later

LLB

[DGW]

Surely it's an oil-based filter that leads to MAF problems not a non oil-based one? A mipsprint?

Time to oil the dog........

[otheos]

Nah, the induction kit (K&N) comes with a breather pipe (takes cold air under engine) but the gain is unnoticed, the oil in the filter messes with the sensors (same as drop in replacement filters) and the car noise is significantly annoying.

In the good old days, a filter added response, making much better going back to throttle after gear shift. However with gas-by-wire, those days are gone :(

So leave the original filter in and spend the money on petrol

[Delcac]

I owned a Triumph Dolomite Sprint for my sins once. It had these horrible SU carbs with a massive air box and filter. I found that if you replaced the panel filter with a pair of the wifes stocking over the intake it went a lot quicker. She got the raving when she found out.

[FabiaTDi]

Even with a breather pipe, the engine could only draw in hot air from the engine bay; when in traffic for example.

I've just had a look at the Jabba kit and the cone filter does seem to be contained in a heat shield. Good old Jabbasport!

I think its okay to use the cotton gauze/oiled filters. As long as you dont go mad with re-oiling after cleaning the filter!

On the subject of cold air feeds, I stumbled accross this on the seatcupra forum. SPT .... oh dear..

[DGW]

I have read numerous tales on the other VAG and VAG-related forums about the perils of using of oiled or oil-based filters. They all end with the (very expensive) MAF needing to be replaced. (And the link which we used to have to an excellent site with an explanation of how to clean the MAF is permanently broken).

The MAF is sensitive to contamination, as this document shows. (You will need Adobe Acrobat Reader to read it).

Time to re-oil the dog........

[FabiaTDi]

MAF failures are common whether an oiled filter is fitted or not.

I've read several reports on tdiclub of this happening.

[stopan1j]

Originally posted by delcac in this post

I owned a Triumph Dolomite Sprint for my sins once. It had these horrible SU carbs with a massive air box and filter. I found that if you replaced the panel filter with a pair of the wifes stocking over the intake it went a lot quicker. She got the raving when she found out.

[Off Topic]

Des you had my dream car as young driver I wanted a yellow one - but at 17 it was out of the question just a dream . Nice White Dolomite on Sun. [/Off Topic off]

Never had much joy over the years with changing filters air intakes etc always caused some undesirable effects for little or no gain, so things dont seem to have changed much. With Turbo charged engines I have always been advised that its critical to the life of the Turbo to get clean air into it .

[tavia4x4]

as I understand it, up till now, filters have either been oiled gauze filters, which risk getting oil to the MAF, or unoiled but too open, and risks getting particles damaging the MAF and \ or turbo etc....

These are all "a bad thing" TM

However........

As I understand it, the Jabba kit is the first to use an INVO stainless wire gauze air filter, which a) does not need oiling and should stop the particles getting through.

So my opinion on filters in general is avoid, but this I would be tempted to do, not so much for performance as noise as I've run induction kits before and they are nice and quiet under small throttle \ cruises, but sound glorious under load \ through tunnels etc. Performance gain is small, but smiles could be increased.

Not cheap tho.

[Delcac]

DO NOT USE ANYTHING BUT A PAPER AIR FILTER IF YOUR CAR IS FITTED WITH A MAF/TURBO

You may be lucky up to now but trust me it's not worth it, I found out the hard/expensive way.

YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED

Unless you have **** loads of money.

[Huck]

out of general interest des, what happened to you when i assume you did you something other than a paper filter?

[Delcac]

Originally posted by Huck in this post

out of general interest des, what happened to you when i assume you did you something other than a paper filter?

Well I have been complaining about the way the turbo has been spooling up on Sunday won't bore you with details, anyway yesterday we removed the turbo after much playing on the rolling road. We striped down the turbo and found a nice pasty substance coating everything including the bearings on the turbo. A new turbo spins forever when you flick it, needless to say my one did not. One new turbo later back to normal.

IMHO I think because the new chip is drawing more air it's dislodging particules of dust infused oil into the turbo intake and causing the problem *OIMO*. The MAF looked OK but cleaned it anyway.

I won't say which filter I was using for obvious reasons but it was oil based

The Black Beast is back to normal now though.

[Huck]

Originally posted by delcac in this post

The Black Beast is back to normal now though.

that's the main thing

hope it wasn't too :shocked: on the

[llblake]

So correct me if I am wrong the air filter in the RS etc is oiled based which is a bad thing. Changing this to a non-oiled based filter is also a bad thing, looks like a catch 22 situation to me!!!

However, one of us could try the Jabbasport induction kit and tell us what they think!?!?

Later

LLB

[Delcac]

It's enough to drive you to drink.:boozer:

Colin have you got a smiley for 'Talking to a brick wall'

Huck, I need help man.

I should stick to jokes.

I'am going for a lie down.

[Huck]

slow...deep...breaths mate.

go for that lie down and maybe, just maybe, you'll be up to explaining it again

[tavia4x4]

ok.. I'll break it down....

Standard filter - paper based, quite efficient but worth replacing before the 40k that Skoda say. I swap mine every 20k. It does not need oiling.

Cotton Gauze filter - cotton based (or man made fibre based) - needs oiling, in theory too much oil, and some can reach the MAF \ turbo, not a good thing - too much risk (in my opinion).

INVO stainless wire gauze air filter, which a) does not need oiling and should stop the particles getting through. In theory (and with knowledge of the above) this is ideal for the 1.8T, I've not seen this kind of filter used before.

As with all filters, fitting an open cone in the engine bay will possibly lead to higher air intake temps, and thus poorer ignition (cold air denser than hot air), so a closed box \ heat shield is needed and preferably a cold air intake to it also.

[MonkeyHanger]

I would NEVER have another Cone Filter / induction kit again.

I had one one my previous car (2.0 litre 16v Astra Sport) and it was absoloutely terrible. The engine ran like a complete dog, it was noisy, drank petrol for fun and when the engine was warm....well forget it. Even with a huge cold air duct from the front of the car it was useless.

I put the standard airbox back on the day before i went to the NEC for last years motorshow and it was like driving a new car

But then i saw the RS on the Skoda stand, and the rest is history lol.

[tavia4x4]

I think a lot depends on the car, I had a "Green" induction kit on my old ZX (1.9i) and it ran wonderfully in all temperatures, including a scorching summer tour of france \ belgium \ luxembourg \ holland. It sounded great (the huge underpass on the E40 under brussels never sounded so good) and pickup was fantastic.

It's based on that experience that I would consider the stainless wire induction kit, finally a kit that can be used safely on the 1.8T.

[MarkD]

Again, it sounds like Jabba have thought about this and come up with a new solution (non-oil based INVO steel mesh filter, cold air seperation panel etc.). It looks like INVO specialise in kits for Jap motors after checking out their website, but I assume Jabba have played around with the cone/induction pipe connection etc to compliment the 1.8T engine. Maybe this combination works well? (They usually sound nice, but this kit is a tad pricey, especially for fly-by-wire motors!).

Regards,

Mark

[FabiaTDi]

One or two of the comments here have got me a bit worried. I looked inside the air box but cant see any dust or deposits after the filter.

Anyhow I might put the paper one back in as I have an oiled/cotton gauze filter in at the moment.

I suppose nothing gets past paper! :confused:

[ncarring]

It's a balancing act:

Paper - great filtration of particles - more restricted air flow

Oil based - larger graticule size, but the oil traps _some_ of the particles - the rest get to the MAF, turbo etc.

Stainless - unknown at present

Conversely

Paper - least airflow ergo worst breathing

Oil based - better breathing but watch the oil burning up the MAF

Stainless - wait and see