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Oil pressure light on now and again


itgoodson

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Hi everyone - first post, and new first-time-Skoda owner! And don't know an awful lot about engines! Hope you can provide some advice...

Today I bought a 2000 W reg Fabia 1.4MPI today (£1500, 60,000 miles)

Whilst driving it home the oil pressure light came on (and I experienced the loud beeping in the cabin). But it didn't stay on. This happened four or five times for the first 15 minutes of the journey. For the second 15 minutes I didn't notice the light come on.

Since reading the other posts on this site about oil pressure I'm now quite concerned!

The guy who sold it me said that some light came on, but that his mechanic looked at it and he said it had something to do with the battery needing a good charge. But that's quite clearly rubbish, since its the oil warning light.

I noticed that while waiting at traffic lights the engine did sound a little lower in pitch than I would have expected, almost a bit diesel like.

I have checked the oil levels and they are fine.

I've booked someone to come with diagnostic kit, but he can't make it till Monday tea time - so now I'm going to worry all weekend and I really need to get back to the guy who sold it me asap

Anyone got any advice? I'm expecting some work to be done, but does anyone really think it could be a very expensive job (more than couple hundred quid?) I'm hoping that since it 1) seemed to drive ok and 2) the oil levels are ok and 3) there is no particularly loud noise coming from the engine and 4) the light goes off after a while and doesn't stay on.

And does anyone know of any fairly simple things I can check while I'm waiting for the guy to come on Monday - maybe I can check some things out to put my mind a rest!

Thanks everyone

PS I've had another look through the log book. The last full service was done on 31st May - presumably that would have picked up anything that was wrong with the oil?

Also the previous owner fitted a new MAP sensor on the 16 of this month (June 2008). Is this anything related?

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Did you specifically ask him what the light was?

If eh lied to you he mis sold you the car and you can take him to task in the courts for it.

On a helpful note, was the light the orange or red one?

The 1.4 forget which version had piston ring problems.

I wouldn't' drive it as when the oil pressure is dropping you are damaging the bearings and top end of the engine.

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I am beginning to wonder whether he pulled the wool over my eyes, but he seemed completely genuine (good reason for sale, didn't appear to be blagging his way through). But if the engine oil pressure light was coming on why did he tell me about some battery problem!

I can't really remember what colour the light was - red I think. Is it safe for me to go and sit in it and start it up to see what light comes up? Or will that just cause unnesesary damage if there is a problem?

Just how expensive can problems caused by low oil pressure be, realistically given the symptoms I have with mine?

Some other questions I have are:

1) Under what circumstances would the oil light come on but then go off again? Shouldn't it stay on if there was a genuine mechanical fault?

2) If there was something genuinely wrong, wouldn't the service that was done on the 31st May have picked this up? Or does a service not check for these things at all? I'm thinking of calling that garage that did the service to see if they remember it and what they think

3) On a legal issue, what leg do I have to stand on if I have signed the paperwork that said 'sold as seen'? Is it not my responsibility to have checked all this out first? He did tell me it was only a battery problem but it seems he was either i) completely clueless (much like me!) or ii) lying to me

Thanks folks - I'm desperate for a bit of peace of mind! I convinced my wife that we should snap this car up quickly and now I'm in for it if there is a very expensive repair job coming!

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1.4 mpi will only have a pressure warning (red), it's the 16 valve AUA/AUB that had the piston ring problems.

I have never known one of these to fail on the oil pressure side of things, though I have seen a few where the sensor has had it. The tell tale sign is the electrical connection once unplugged is full of oil. A new sensor (£10 or so)and about 15 minutes work will sort it.

The sensor is located on the front of the cylinder block towards the passenger side of the oil filter and should be quick and easy to check.

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I have never known one of these to fail on the oil pressure side of things, though I have seen a few where the sensor has had it. The tell tale sign is the electrical connection once unplugged is full of oil.

Slightly off topic, different model car but have you seem problems with the sensor on the Petrol vRS? Mine came on the other day, oil 3/4 way up between min & max, hasn't come on since.

http://briskoda.net/forums/ask-tech/oil-pressure-light/114765/

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I've heard of some of the PD engines and a couple of TDI's where the oil filter in the sump becomes blocked and reduces the flow.

Of course it might not be this at all but something else ot consider with the sensor. Sure Ross will know more on this too.

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My 1.8T is in the garage at the mo with a low oil pressure warning. Waiting for the verdict as its been in a week but hoping for the blocked pipe scenario. No rattles or anything so hoping for the best!!

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My first port of call would be the pressure switch, as being cheaper and easier than investigating the strainer. This is particularly true if the car had a recent oil change (to when the light started flashing).

Also, since the colour and symbol on them are both different, I just would not believe anyone who "didn't know" whether a light that was flickering was the alternator or oil warning.

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Right - I've got hold (after being messed about by one parts shop) of a pressure switch. And I think I've located the existing one (on the front of the engine low down towards the passenger side).

The only thing is - how do I get the thing off?! In particular i'm referring to the plastic cap that has the wire attached to it. If I pull any harder i'll end up tearing the wire off. It seems completely stuck. There seems to be a catch or something on the cap, but I've no idea how to operate it. And I'm doing the wrong thing entirely?

Thanks! Help needed!

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Bingo - thanks. I worked it out in the end! Changed pressure switch and hey presto - the light has not come back on.

Just few more probs now I want to sort: think I'll post about each one a time, but they are:

1. Power steering light coming on only after driving for 15 minutes. Then it won't go off

2. The electric wing mirror adjusters don't do anything to mirror whatsoever, no matter how I twist them

3. The left hand LCD display (think it does time/mpg/temperature) doesn't display properly. I might have to get hold of a new one.

Thanks for all the help with the oil pressure - that's the big problem fixed.

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Bingo - thanks. I worked it out in the end! Changed pressure switch and hey presto - the light has not come back on.

Just few more probs now I want to sort: think I'll post about each one a time, but they are:

1. Power steering light coming on only after driving for 15 minutes. Then it won't go off

2. The electric wing mirror adjusters don't do anything to mirror whatsoever, no matter how I twist them

3. The left hand LCD display (think it does time/mpg/temperature) doesn't display properly. I might have to get hold of a new one.

Thanks for all the help with the oil pressure - that's the big problem fixed.

I had to have the Oil pressure sensor changed on my MPI, common problem

1. Power steering light is also common, can be low system voltage, angle sensor or a few other things, but most likely to be these

2. You may need someone with VAG-COM to take a look at this, not sounding patronising but you have selected L or R before moving the knob?

3. In what way does the LCD Display not work properly, could be a new dashpod if it's totally knackered, and that wont be cheap

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Thanks for that reply -

1. Power Steering - I found out a bit by reading other threads. First thing I'll try is topping up the fluid.

2. Not patronising, don't worry! Where do I select L or R? There is a knob next to the handle on both drivers and passengers doors. I wiggle them and push them and nothing happens. I can't see where I select L or R.

3. The left hand LCD. It shows some numbers, but not properly. And they do seem to change. I just can't read it because not all parts of the characters are displaying. I'm hoping I can change just that individual screen? I've no idea where I'd start with that though.

Thanks for the help

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Thanks for that reply -

1. Power Steering - I found out a bit by reading other threads. First thing I'll try is topping up the fluid.

2. Not patronising, don't worry! Where do I select L or R? There is a knob next to the handle on both drivers and passengers doors. I wiggle them and push them and nothing happens. I can't see where I select L or R.

3. The left hand LCD. It shows some numbers, but not properly. And they do seem to change. I just can't read it because not all parts of the characters are displaying. I'm hoping I can change just that individual screen? I've no idea where I'd start with that though.

Thanks for the help

1. Yes, checking the fluid first is a good idea, but the system is electro-hydraulic so after checking the fluid you may need to worry about the electrics

2. If you have adjusters on both sides then those are manual, not electric mirrors. There should be a small lever that manipulates the mirror glass, it may have become detatched.

3. I don't think you will be able to get a part for an individual screen, but you might be able to do something with a dashpod from a scrappy, but someone more technical that me will need to help you with this. If you do get someone with VAG-COM to take a look at your power steering issue they can also do an output test on the dashpod which illiminates each pixel/segment on the display. It is normal for it to display -.-- for MPG when not accelerating or when stationary

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1) As said but first thing to do is check the water levels in the battery and top them up with deionised water if they are not covering the plates. Then charge your battery up. Otherwise get a new one if it's over 5 years old.

2) Yep they are manual give them a slightly firm push to the extremes and the glass moves. No twisting, just push it up/down/left/right like a joystick.

3) New dashpod time, but that will be about £300. Otherwise you could get one from a breaker and fine a place that will recode it to match your vehicles mileage. You might want to get somebody to just check all the wiring between the device and the LCD though as that seems more likely than dead segments.

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Thanks both of you for the help - much appreciated. I'll post something if I get anywhere. It all seems fairly complicated! I assume a VAG-COM is a diagnosing computer? Sorry - I am an ignoramous!

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Great - will remember that if it ever comes to it.

Question about the battery and possible connection with PAS problems (remember - I know nothing about cars!)... won't the battery be fully charged by the alternator? What will using a charger to charge it add?

Also - does anyone know whether, if when I disconnect the battery (to access the PAS fluid tank) the car stereo will lock up and need a code to get started again?

Thanks

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The battery will initially be fully charged by the alternator, but there will be some drain (even if only running clock and "you've not been stolen" feed to the stereo head) when the engine's off, plus some when it's started, so if you then run slowly with the ventilation on high, it's not impossible you might get a slightly low voltage.

Most VAG cars have a hand-shaking system when you reconect the battery, so the stereo shouldn't need a code.

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