recommended brake fluid for octy 1 vrs

[SNH]

as title says, im getting the discs and pads changed so thought i would do the fluid while im at it so can anyone recommend some decent stuff?? car gets driven pretty hard occasionally if that makes a difference

[cheezemonkhai]

To be fair to them, the halfords DOT5.1 or DOT4 ESP is fine for what you want assuming you take care to check it after the "hard" days.

Whatever you do don't use DOT 5.

This should help if you need any:

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/60393-brake-fluids-a-hopefully-definitive-thread/

[SNH]

To be fair to them, the halfords DOT5.1 or DOT4 ESP is fine for what you want assuming you take care to check it after the "hard" days.

Whatever you do don't use DOT 5.

This should help if you need any:

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/60393-brake-fluids-a-hopefully-definitive-thread/

ye had a read of the thread cheers, didnt no if anyone had any recommendations. heard that motul rbf 600 supposed to be good :wonder:

[shark_90]

RBF600 is what I use and never have problems, including on track days.

[SNH]

RBF600 is what I use and never have problems, including on track days.

cheers ben

[Beretta]

Silkolene ProRace 2000.......Terrific quality.

[SNH]

Silkolene ProRace 2000.......Terrific quality.

i shall be doing some comparing

[chicken_eyebrow]

The Silkolene stuff gets my vote, thats what I put in mine and my mates VRS's

[Bertee]

What quantity is required for a brake fluid change?

[cheezemonkhai]

Not sure for the MK I, but remember to bleed the clutch at the same time.

[chicken_eyebrow]

I think we bought 4 or 5 of the 1 litre bottles per car but only used 3 and a bit per car at which point fresh fluid was coming out of all the bleed nipples (clutch and the two ABS master cylinder nipples too)

Edited 12 May, 2010 by chicken_eyebrow

[giandougl]

Use DOT4 in my 2005 Fabia VRS.

If in doubt ask Skoda.

Paid just under £5 for 1 litre to do a 2 yearly fluid change.

Edited 12 May, 2010 by giandougl

[rwbaldwin]

Motul RBF600 is pretty good.

You only need 1 litre to do a fluid change if you remove almost all the old fluid from the reservoir. 200ml from each brake and 100ml from the clutch. Some think this is cutting it a bit fine and use 1.5 litres.

Remember that you shouldn't keep an opened bottle of fluid as it absorbs moisture. Order what you need and use all the fluid from any bottle you open.

It's best to use a pressure bleeder. The Gunson Eezibleed works fine and costs a liitle over £15.

[Hauptmann]

Unfortunately there is a great deal of poorly-informed twaddle talked about brake fluid.

I spent a few years working as an engineer for a well-known brake systems manufacturer (including the design an testing of ABS systems) - so here is a bit of solid information...

Almost all so-called 'racing fluids' are actually DOT 4 glycol ether based fluids. Borate esters are added to raise the boiling point (from typically around 240 deg. C to around 300 deg C). Whether you need boiling points that high is a moot point. You are unlikely to boil a standard DOT 4 fluid in ANY kind of public road driving. Brake caliper fluid temps above 200 deg C are only likely to occur with repeated braking from over 100mph, lap after lap.

One of the downsides of adding extra borate esters is that the fluid become more hygroscopic (absorbs more moisture) so the racing fluids should be changed more often otherwise their boiling point can actually fall below that of a standard DOT 4.

Some racing fluids claim to offer reduced compressibility, but I have never seen evidence of how that is achieved since they all use basically the same chemistry.

Added borate ester tends to increase the viscosity of the fluid at low temps, which could potentially be a problem with ABS systems in some cold climates - not normally an issue in the UK.

The only exceptional racing fluid is Castrol SRF, which uses a completely different fluid chemistry - but it is very expensive.

For any road driving and most track driving just stick with a standard DOT 4 and change it regularly (ideally after each winter). Putting racing fluid in a road-driven vRS is just a waste of money.

If you genuinely have experienced fluid boiling on the track then go to a racing fluid and change after each track event. ATE Super Blue or Gold (just different dyes - same fluid) is a good value fluid.

DO NOT use a DIY-type pressure bleeder. Professional pressure bleeders keep the fluid and air separated via a diaphragm. The DIY type allow pressurised air to interact with the fluid, causing micro-bubbles in the fluid. Bleed your brakes with either a vacuum bleeder or by pumping the pedal (SLOWLY) the old-fashioned way.

Edited 12 May, 2010 by Hauptmann

[giandougl]

Many thanks for your input 'Hauptmann' , appreciation from me at least.

You must be cracking on a bit to use the old word twaddle, I was using that word in school some 50+ years ago. LOL

[SNH]

Unfortunately there is a great deal of poorly-informed twaddle talked about brake fluid.

I spent a few years working as an engineer for a well-known brake systems manufacturer (including the design an testing of ABS systems) - so here is a bit of solid information...

Almost all so-called 'racing fluids' are actually DOT 4 glycol ether based fluids. Borate esters are added to raise the boiling point (from typically around 240 deg. C to around 300 deg C). Whether you need boiling points that high is a moot point. You are unlikely to boil a standard DOT 4 fluid in ANY kind of public road driving. Brake caliper fluid temps above 200 deg C are only likely to occur with repeated braking from over 100mph, lap after lap.

One of the downsides of adding extra borate esters is that the fluid become more hygroscopic (absorbs more moisture) so the racing fluids should be changed more often otherwise their boiling point can actually fall below that of a standard DOT 4.

Some racing fluids claim to offer reduced compressibility, but I have never seen evidence of how that is achieved since they all use basically the same chemistry.

Added borate ester tends to increase the viscosity of the fluid at low temps, which could potentially be a problem with ABS systems in some cold climates - not normally an issue in the UK.

The only exceptional racing fluid is Castrol SRF, which uses a completely different fluid chemistry - but it is very expensive.

For any road driving and most track driving just stick with a standard DOT 4 and change it regularly (ideally after each winter). Putting racing fluid in a road-driven vRS is just a waste of money.

If you genuinely have experienced fluid boiling on the track then go to a racing fluid and change after each track event. ATE Super Blue or Gold (just different dyes - same fluid) is a good value fluid.

DO NOT use a DIY-type pressure bleeder. Professional pressure bleeders keep the fluid and air separated via a diaphragm. The DIY type allow pressurised air to interact with the fluid, causing micro-bubbles in the fluid. Bleed your brakes with either a vacuum bleeder or by pumping the pedal (SLOWLY) the old-fashioned way.

thanks for that made an interesting read

[Hauptmann]

Many thanks for your input 'Hauptmann' , appreciation from me at least.

You must be cracking on a bit to use the old word twaddle, I was using that word in school some 50+ years ago. LOL

Yes, I am getting on a bit, but not yet a pensioner! I spent a few decades in the motor industry as a design engineer in a variety of capacities, including on braking systems. My earliest recollections are of single-circuit systems on things like Heralds and Spitfires! I also worked on Porsche and did development work for US and Korean companies, amongst many. It was all good fun, especially out on the test track at MIRA on a nice sunny afternoon in the summer!

[cheezemonkhai]

To be fair, I run the DOT5.1 because when doing the a/bahns I did have to brake hard from 100mph+ and with the 288mm set up things got very hairy after that stop.

I pay less than £3/L for it and so an annual change is no issue.

Certainly wouldn't be spending lots of money unless going up to SRF and as you say, if you need that then you have probably have some issues in elsewhere in your brakes that need sorting or your brake fluid is just wet.

[giandougl]

Yes, I am getting on a bit, but not yet a pensioner! I spent a few decades in the motor industry as a design engineer in a variety of capacities, including on braking systems. My earliest recollections are of single-circuit systems on things like Heralds and Spitfires! I also worked on Porsche and did development work for US and Korean companies, amongst many. It was all good fun, especially out on the test track at MIRA on a nice sunny afternoon in the summer!

Hello,

You gotta be cracking on, I passed my first driving test in a Triumph Herald.

It made a mockery of a three point turn, could do it in one. LOL

Have you stopped driving, no vehicle listed under your personal details??

Edited 14 May, 2010 by giandougl

[Hauptmann]

Hello,

You gotta be cracking on, I passed my first driving test in a Triumph Herald.

It made a mockery of a three point turn, could do it in one. LOL

Have you stopped driving, no vehicle listed under your personal details??

LOL!

No, got a 2008 Octavia vRS (remapped & modded suspension etc), 2008 BMW 5-er, 2008 Fabia II 1.9TDI (remapped, modded suspension, brakes etc) - so still very much driving and still a few years before I can draw a pension!

[AwesomeSarah]

Hello

As has been said , we had a bit of info passed on to us in regards the lower life expectancy on brake fluid

That was a bit of a shocker for me really

To be fair , I did know that as soon as brake fluid is open to the air , the life will go down and that is due to the fact that is soaks up the moisture in the air

http://www.tarox.com/en/news.php?id=58

Tarox have brought out some new brake fluid , and may be worth a read

I love the word twaddle too

Sarah

[giandougl]

Probably Skoda were right on stating renew brake fluid every two years.

It's not an expensive chore at just under a fiver at a time.

With a friend it can be bled fairly quickly.

[SNH]

Probably Skoda were right on stating renew brake fluid every two years.

It's not an expensive chore at just under a fiver at a time.

With a friend it can be bled fairly quickly.

my skoda dealer wants £50 to do a fluid change

[giandougl]

my skoda dealer wants £50 to do a fluid change

Hello,

I had my first brake fluid change when car was two year old, Skoda charged me £35.00.

When I and a friend did it, cost of 1 Litre brake fluid (DOT4) just under a £5.00.

Jacking each corner of car up at-a-time, I started first from near-side rear wheel.

Releasing bleed nipple (8m/m or 10m/m spanner, sorry forgotten) with rubber hose attached, with the other end of rubber hose submerged in brake fluid in a jar

whilst pressing brake pedal down/up until brake fluid ran clear, then retightened the bleed nipple.

Took about twenty minutes in total, job done.

Cost me a further pint (no not brake fluid) that evening in pub £2.50. LOL

It's not rocket science, and in easy reach of most of us to complete job competently.

Edited 20 May, 2010 by giandougl