Skoda Fabia Diesel fault with codes

[Skodafabiadiesel]

Hi Guys,

My dads Skoda Fabia diesel (55 Plate 1.9TDI) is having problems when running it will sometimes just cut out with the engine light. I have read the codes and they are P0230, P0489 and P0243 with a generic VW/Audi reader off ebay. (Am awaiting my VAG-COM cable to turn up in the post)

The car will refuse to start once the car has errored unless it is left off for at least 30 mins or you clear the code.

The car has been to 3 garages and unable to figure this out.

One garage stripped out the car interior and it worked fine but then errored a few days after the interior was replaced.

Another garage ruled out the fuel pump with all the interior in.

And Skoda tried changing the EGR valve but this didn't fix so they wanted £2000 for a new loom.

A friend that works for Audi had a look at the car and found the "Vent block" in the engine bay was getting hot and running on. This has now been replaced and the new one no longer runs on.

Can anyone suggest anything to help?

Much appreciated in advance and i hope you all have a good Christmas/new year.

Edited 24 December, 2011 by Skodafabiadiesel

[Skodafabiadiesel]

This appears to be fixed now, found we could re-create the fault by loading up the cars electrical system.

Also found that when the car cut out/errored it wasnt the fuel pump that made the engine cut out but a Vacuum powered solenoid (Throttle?) on the air intake above the manifold.

This was then re-creatable by taping the ECU. Opened up the ECU and found one of the 2 main capacitors to have a dry/broken joint.

My dad is currently taking the complaint up with Skoda and their ECU repairers for their inability to thoroughly inspect and test the ECU.

Hope this possibly helps anyone else who gets some rouge codes that happen under electrical load.

[Zazu272]

Hello I dont know if you still get these notifications but my passat has the exact symptoms and I cant solve it I have limited it down to the ecu. How did you fix this issue? 

[Breezy_Pete]

Presumably by re-soldering the damaged solder joint of 'one of the 2 main capacitors' inside the ECU.

If you open yours up and take some photos of what's in there, I can probably guide you to a solution. 

 

Edited 11 September, 2020 by Wino

[Zazu272]

Ok mate when I get home tonight I will take it out and take some pictures I'm guessing i have the same problem as I have changed everything else possible that could cause this issue thank you 

[VWD]

On my time on the bench at GEC we found that to inspect soldered joints, the best way was to look at them under a jewellers eyeglass/decent magnifying glass and try to move the components, whilst looking at the underside of the board for  movement as this sort of problem is extremely difficult to find with the naked eye , and if in doubt apply a soldering iron to the suspect joint. But please use a low/nil leakage soldering iron to prevent damage to static sensitive components and take static precautions such as a resistive wrist strap. 

With older soldered joints, I've found that the solder has crystalised and the joint looks solid till you move the component. In effect you get a temporary dry joint ( possibly with a bit of flux insulating the component from the solder. This is something similar to what Network rail found on trackside soldered connections,exposed to variations of temperature and similar to a fault I once had on an old  Monitor , where solder around diodes had crystalised.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

No real help, except on the

[Zazu272]

Do I need to get the pcb out and inspect to underside of the board or can I see the point of failure from the opening hatch I have a magnifying glass and slowly working through I have a photo but I cant upload it for some odd reason 

[Breezy_Pete]

Photos, top and bottom sides, marked up with what seem to be the '2 main capacitors' and their solder joints.

[KeithCheetham]

You may want to consider buying a 2nd hand ECU, which I assume will be an EDC15, and looking to get it cloned, or just to prove the issue one with immobiliser off that you can have back on later if it works due to insurance issues. You should ensure that it is an exact match, and you risk the chance of getting an ECU that has issues itself. I have been down this swap out root with an instrument cluster to identify issue on that and for the sake of £12.50 (plenty of cheap parts for the older cars so prices are driven down) I identified that the original cluster had an issue rather than trying to chase wiring or sender (fuel level and outside temperature not reading) issues. I will now have to look into coding that cluster to my immobiliser and keys, but it was a quick method of identifying the issue..

[Zazu272]

Thing is with swapping ecus you open a can of worms hw and sw numbers must match immo off is money on it's own it works out to be about 150 to replace ecu immo off and remap it back to my map when I can repair this one I'd like the chap who made the post to tell me if he replaced the diodes or jus repaired the joints looks like 2 different points are damaged rather than the capacitors unless they are internally damaged I will check the ohms and resistance through them if I cant see a damaged solder joint 

[Breezy_Pete]

Get some close-up photos of the joints inside those red rectangles, and it should be reasonably easy to see any cracked joints on a big screen.