wheel allignment - pull to the left

[monkeykler]

Hi guys,

Cars been pulling to the left, also getting tyres with uneven wear, so i've just got all new tyres, car still pulled to the left, so got tracking done at the front today, said it was out by a lot 4 mil or something he said, its now been set to zero was done with laser allignment.

but if I let go of the steering wheel (on a private road) it still pulls to the left on its own and i dont have the accelerator pressed either.

any one got any ideas?

I don't know if this helps, but I keep getting random squeeking noises from the brakes like they are sticking it's been doing it for a while so i got new discs and pads and it's started doing it again

Thanks in advance

[blueR36]

Jack the car up and manually turn each wheel in turn to check your brakes . Does your car pull to the left on all cambers, try going down a deserted road, on the other side off the road to see if it pulls to the right , I did not have mine sett to zero for that reason as the camber will make it go slightly left

[mannyo]

Could be worn bushes or sticky brake callipers.

[allias]

Dispite you had alignment done (or should say tracking) that doesnt mean you had all angles right. If it was only toe adjusted then I guess you might have problem with caster/camber. Do test on destered road like bluevrs said and if you will still have problem then if you decide to take a trip to Leeds I can ensure you I can sort it for you.

Also check if there is difference in strengh on pull while accelerating or just on a roll. See if there change it.

[Southy]

Dispite you had alignment done (or should say tracking) that doesnt mean you had all angles right. If it was only toe adjusted then I guess you might have problem with caster/camber. Do test on destered road like bluevrs said and if you will still have problem then if you decide to take a trip to Leeds I can ensure you I can sort it for you.

Also check if there is difference in strengh on pull while accelerating or just on a roll. See if there change it.

I think I will be making a trip over to yourself soon, had new console bushes fitted the other week and new tyres just before xmas so wanna make sure everything is set right.

[wilsonian]

i've just gone through all this my self. The car had uneven tyre wear on the insides. I had the car tracked and they claimed the wheels were out however a few days later the car was still pulling to one side. When I took it back to the garage they confirmed the tracking was correct but one of my rear console bushes was splitting which had caused the ball joint to wear too.

I'd recommend getting at least the bushes checked out as well as the ball joints.

[allias]

Good garage should should check suspension before carring out alignment/tracking. There is no point doing it if there is still something wrong.

[Rob.]

bluevrs2 is right, when you can do it safely try driving on the other side of the road, you'll most likely find it pulls right. And if you drive in the dead centre it drive in a straight line... The vRS is setup to be camber sensitive, and there's also no adjustment on the rear to correct any minor discrepancies.. It's come up many times on here, always muted as a safety feature to stop you heading into a head on collision when falling asleep etc etc.

[allias]

The vRS is setup to be camber sensitive,

Can be, but...

and there's also no adjustment on the rear to correct any minor discrepancies..

I hope you talking about mk1 as mk2 has full adjustment.

[monkeykler]

Jack the car up and manually turn each wheel in turn to check your brakes . Does your car pull to the left on all cambers, try going down a deserted road, on the other side off the road to see if it pulls to the right , I did not have mine sett to zero for that reason as the camber will make it go slightly left

I jacked the car up, rear wheels seemed to spin freely, front ones were sluggish and wouldnt spin at all, i've kept two front calipers off the car im breaking just in case

Dispite you had alignment done (or should say tracking) that doesnt mean you had all angles right. If it was only toe adjusted then I guess you might have problem with caster/camber. Do test on destered road like bluevrs said and if you will still have problem then if you decide to take a trip to Leeds I can ensure you I can sort it for you.

Also check if there is difference in strengh on pull while accelerating or just on a roll. See if there change it.

How much would you charge?

Good garage should should check suspension before carring out alignment/tracking. There is no point doing it if there is still something wrong.

Sounds like i've just wasted £30 then, when I put car on full lock to the left, it makes a knocking noise as well

[allias]

Check is free. As far as price it depends on what needs doing. If you need more details PM me.

[TheGladiator]

i have the same problem too,

i test it in different road, it's always goes to left, and i have to keep holding steering.

any suggestion ?

Regards

[faboka vrs]

Check is free. As far as price it depends on what needs doing. If you need more details PM me.

What extra hardware do you use? To my knowledge only toe on the front can be adjusted. Maybe front camber by shifting the subframe or moving the top mounts a little. Rear adjustment would need shims.

[allias]

i have the same problem too,

i test it in different road, it's always goes to left, and i have to keep holding steering.

any suggestion ?

Regards

Its known to us that front subframe need shifting but there could be more to check. Thats where lots of garages make a mistake becasue they think - toe is enough. Toe is something what you look at as a last thing. You need to consider much much more. Suspensions may be same but each vehicle is different and might need different solutions - the same as when you do tuning and universal map might not be ideal - will do job but is it "perfect" for YOUR car? The same with alignment checks - it require diagnosis of entire suspension.

Faboka vrs: what do you mean other hardware? We have John Beam 3D Visualiner kit plus camber gauge if I need to use plus big set of tools needed to work on suspension. Mayor tool/hardware is that machine for readouts but I think I can be pround about expierience with OEM, lowered, raised setups. That covers american muscle cars, japan jdm and few other brands and drivetrains like AWD, 4x4 + Vans, pickups - You name it.

[faboka vrs]

Hi allias, sorry I was referring to what do you fit in order to alter the settings? To my knowledge only toe can be adjusted. Camber/castor is fixed. Only subframe and top mounts can be slightly altered but not much.

[allias]

Hi allias, sorry I was referring to what do you fit in order to alter the settings? To my knowledge only toe can be adjusted. Camber/castor is fixed. Only subframe and top mounts can be slightly altered but not much.

That little movement does make a difference. To bad for drivers that VAG cars have so much slack on subframe. But at least we got some work :p

[faboka vrs]