Under steer in Octy 4x4

[JBS Auto Design]

There is a place in Ollerton that manufactures ARB`s.

They make them to order , but to produce something for the likes of the Octavia rear you would have to set up a VERY good group buy!

As they would only produce one from scratch for I think it was 50?

[EddyH]

There is a place in Ollerton that manufactures ARB`s.

They make them to order ' date=' but to produce something for the likes of the Octavia rear you would have to set up a VERY good group buy!

As they would only produce one from scratch for I think it was 50?[/quote']

I think we'd struggle to find 5 4x4 owners wanting one never mind 50. :(

Do you have any contact details? Maybe they could modify standard R32 ARB's rather than making one from scratch.

[Stuart_J]

There is a place in Ollerton that manufactures ARB`s.

They make them to order ' date=' but to produce something for the likes of the Octavia rear you would have to set up a VERY good group buy!

As they would only produce one from scratch for I think it was 50?[/quote']

I think its all to do with the costs of heat treating the steel, basically as I understand it you have to soften it to bend it without inducing stresses & then retreat it to harden it. As you treat them all at the same time it spreads the cost which is several hundred pounds a go.

The R32 is so close to fitting that a tweak might be possible if someone can be found with a press that can do the awkward shape, ideally with a 4x4 parked next to it on axle stands with the ARB already off as a pattern

[TaviaRS]

Would it have to be a 1 piece design? What material are we talking here?

[Neo_VR]

There is a place in Ollerton that manufactures ARB`s.

They make them to order ' date=' but to produce something for the likes of the Octavia rear you would have to set up a VERY good group buy!

As they would only produce one from scratch for I think it was 50?[/quote']

Now then... if that was a rear arb for the Y2 fabia chassis ....

wouldnt a decent coilover setup have same effect.. ie stiffer rear settings?

[Stuart_J]

Well, I will admit this gently !!

Let someone else whos done a bit of racing drive my car at the Trackday on Friday & I warned him about the Understeer, he didnt think it was at all bad & proceeded to teach me a few things.

Firstly enter the corner slightly slower, I was turning in whilst still braking hard so the tyres are struggling for grip, Then feed the power in gently, dont just nail it. The car was definately a lot quicker & smoother through the corners.

On high speed bends where it felt it was starting to drift which I thought the beginings of Understeer just dab the brakes with the left foot whilst keeping the accelerator planted firmly to the floor, this shifts the weight slightly to the front & the front tyres bite slightly more, works a treat.

Those few laps taught me so much, its all about keeping it smooth & balanced

[EddyH]

Well' date=' I will admit this gently !!

Let someone else whos done a bit of racing drive my car at the Trackday on Friday & I warned him about the Understeer, he didnt think it was at all bad & proceeded to teach me a few things.

Firstly enter the corner slightly slower, I was turning in whilst still braking hard so the tyres are struggling for grip, Then feed the power in gently, dont just nail it. The car was definately a lot quicker & smoother through the corners.

On high speed bends where it felt it was starting to drift which I thought the beginings of Understeer just dab the brakes with the left foot whilst keeping the accelerator planted firmly to the floor, this shifts the weight slightly to the front & the front tyres bite slightly more, works a treat.

Those few laps taught me so much, its all about keeping it smooth & balanced[/quote']

I've carried most of what you have said over from my biking experience. I always brake before turning and use gradual acceleration through bends to maintain weight distribution.

Have to say though I've never tried the dabbing of brakes and can't say I fancy trying it on the road. The front outside tyre would be already heavily loaded and braking could be a push too far.

[Stuart_J]

I've carried most of what you have said over from my biking experience. I always brake before turning and use gradual acceleration through bends to maintain weight distribution.

Have to say though I've never tried the dabbing of brakes and can't say I fancy trying it on the road. The front outside tyre would be already heavily loaded and braking could be a push too far.

Brake a tadge longer & hit the corner slightly slower than you think you need, That way the car will be balanced & you can feed the power in earlier, that way the overall time for cornering is actually less & it all feels a lot smoother & stresses the car less

Re Braking in high speed corners just Dab the brakes, a quick gentle stab is all thats needed. I did a few laps with the same Guy in a Range Rover & the technique really showed itself in that, over 2 Tonnes of wallowing *** in perfect control.

Ive also seen him black flagged for power sliding an Ultima at 140 at Goodwood, just a tadge impressive, My Wife was passeger at the time & wanted to go out again

[Dutch4x4]

I'm with Eddy on the first bit - have already found that the traditional cornering technique works best for the Octy, instead of what I got used to in the Subaru, i.e. taking as much speed into the corner (and braking into the corner) while relying on getting the AWD system get the car sorted somewhere around the apex. This plainly doesn't work with the Octy, and I think that's because of the non-permanent Haldex giving the car much more understeer in the first part of the corner. Haldex indeed works best when braking in a straight line, steering cleanly towards the apex and feeding the power in early but gently, moving the power emphasis towards the rear, getting rid of the initial understeer.

As for Stuart's second advice - that sounds very interesting! I'll give it a try...

[Dutch4x4]

As this thread is some sort of 4x4 suspension thread anyway and because of the original one in my Performance now having been archived, I'll paste a quote here:

I think it'd be wise enough to combine your MAD springs with a set of sport dampers.Otherwise the OEM will fail soon I suppose.

My OEM dampers after 2 track days and 62000km need to be replaced..

[i have OEM springs too].

Well, am on 51,000kms now and mine will be replaced next week... They've been knackered by the lowering springs like I was warned they would.

I will be keeping the springs - one of my worst car investments ever but I will have them work for their money! - and pairing them with Konis, as my dealer has most knowledge of them, having already done an identical set-up for another customer. I originally wanted to go for Bilstein B8s but having variable dampers does seem to make some sense with me and Mrs Dutch part-timing in the car starting next year when it will come under private ownership.

So the Koni Sports it will be. I'll keep you posted on their behaviour...