Wishbone front bolt seized

[vikingbezerker]

well gonna try it, if im lucky and it comes out i'll run a tap down it and clean up the bolt, get some new ones from the bolt shop just in case and i'll order a helicoil kit based on the bolt and we will see if it works..... wish me luck

 

[KenONeill]

@vikingbezerker - From what's happened so far, I'd suggest running some PlusGas into the other side now. That may save you hours later.

[vikingbezerker]

well the saga so far...... busted the head off the bolt, and its my first time with one of these......

 

so after the swearing, undid all the bolts holding the console in, then undid the dog bone, realised the jack was in the wrong place and the subframe was distorting and stopping it coming out (WTF) got it out and its clamped to the bench while i run drills through it to get the bugger out, threads look ok ish and its a generic bolt, so should have a pile of them in a box in the shed of doom where i keep my old dead cars bits... so.... yeah its a ball ache, but feel like i might win this one..... hope i ain't jinxed it.

[sepulchrave]

It's an M12 ISO metric standard pitch high tensile bolt with an 18mm ISO hex head, use whatever works, you know what you're doing.

[Breezy_Pete]

M12 x 1.5 x 100 long.

[vikingbezerker]

ok i got a couple on order in stainless, might help in the future but i did find an interesting but expensive bit of kit for anyone who is interested 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Molyslip-500g-Alumslip-high-temperature-graphited-anti-seize-assembly-compound/252953664779?epid=26017016074&hash=item3ae5369d0b:g:ZZMAAOSwCQZZJBpO

 

alumaslip by molyslip, anyone know if it actually works?

 

[sepulchrave]

2 minutes ago, vikingbezerker said:

ok i got a couple on order in stainless, might help in the future but i did find an interesting but expensive bit of kit for anyone who is interested 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Molyslip-500g-Alumslip-high-temperature-graphited-anti-seize-assembly-compound/252953664779?epid=26017016074&hash=item3ae5369d0b:g:ZZMAAOSwCQZZJBpO

 

alumaslip by molyslip, anyone know if it actually works?

 

 

Oh boy, I wouldn't use stainless, it's not strong enough.

[vikingbezerker]

41 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Oh boy, I wouldn't use stainless, it's not strong enough.

never had a strength problem with stainless and the way that bolt cut and torqued off its nothing special, its just mild steel, so stailess should be ok, when its boll ocked up its gripped at both ends so vibration shouldn't be a problem..... but i will look for the alternates when i go indiana jonesing in the shed of doom 

[sepulchrave]

41 minutes ago, vikingbezerker said:

never had a strength problem with stainless and the way that bolt cut and torqued off its nothing special, its just mild steel, so stailess should be ok, when its boll ocked up its gripped at both ends so vibration shouldn't be a problem..... but i will look for the alternates when i go indiana jonesing in the shed of doom 

 

http://www.volksbolts.com/faq/basics.htm

 

Work it out for yourself from this, the tensile rating should be marked on the head of the bolt. Stainless is markedly more brittle than steel and prone to fatigue failure, I would not use it in a critical suspension application.

[KenONeill]

10 hours ago, vikingbezerker said:

ok i got a couple on order in stainless, might help in the future but i did find an interesting but expensive bit of kit for anyone who is interested 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Molyslip-500g-Alumslip-high-temperature-graphited-anti-seize-assembly-compound/252953664779?epid=26017016074&hash=item3ae5369d0b:g:ZZMAAOSwCQZZJBpO

 

alumaslip by molyslip, anyone know if it actually works?

 

I've never used a "anti-seize compound" on threads. I do know that threaded fasteners are held in place by friction though.

 

From your description to date, maybe Loktite since it will form a barrier?

[Breezy_Pete]

Best bet for preventing future problems is probably to (use a 10.9 bolt and) put a plug of grease in the rear-facing open end of the tapped hole in the console, so that air/moisture/salt can't get in that way.

[rum4mo]

Going back a very long way on this sort of topic, a tech on this forum said that the green coating that VW Group apply to some of its bolts, is there to reduce this effect and one reason why any green coated bolt that passes through aluminium or into aluminium should be replaced and not refitted as the coating will have become damaged. Note, due to keeping part numbers down to a minimum, there will be the odd occasion where a green coated bolt will get used where there is no aluminium, ie front strut top mounts.

Like KenONiell said, thread sealants should also stop moisture getting in as well as helping to lock the threads.

[vikingbezerker]

51 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

Going back a very long way on this sort of topic, a tech on this forum said that the green coating that VW Group apply to some of its bolts, is there to reduce this effect and one reason why any green coated bolt that passes through aluminium or into aluminium should be replaced and not refitted as the coating will have become damaged. Note, due to keeping part numbers down to a minimum, there will be the odd occasion where a green coated bolt will get used where there is no aluminium, ie front strut top mounts.

Like KenONiell said, thread sealants should also stop moisture getting in as well as helping to lock the threads.

 well its supposed to stop galling, so will give it a go, like the idea of sealing the end with a gob of grease. will do that as well, nothing like belt and braces.... its times like this i miss my old ZX, will have done all the bloody job both sides in 2 hours..... thats with a brew break! i could rant about "progress" and how its more like 2 steps backward and 1 forward but i think you know the drill..... cheers guys!

[vikingbezerker]

10 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

 

http://www.volksbolts.com/faq/basics.htm

 

Work it out for yourself from this, the tensile rating should be marked on the head of the bolt. Stainless is markedly more brittle than steel and prone to fatigue failure, I would not use it in a critical suspension application.

ok cheers for that, might have saved me a bit of grief there, but then again thats what these forums are for!  checked the bold head and its 10.9, sooo stainless is out.  looks like i'm off to the shed of doom..... prepare a rescue team lol

[sepulchrave]

31 minutes ago, vikingbezerker said:

ok cheers for that, might have saved me a bit of grief there, but then again thats what these forums are for!  checked the bold head and its 10.9, sooo stainless is out.  looks like i'm off to the shed of doom..... prepare a rescue team lol

 

I have three sheds of dewm, it's Stoke you need rescuing from, not the shed! 

[TMB]

Call me old-fashioned but why not just buy two new bolts from Skoda? Part number N10640301

 

Edited 12 April, 2018 by TMB

[vikingbezerker]

 

19 minutes ago, TMB said:

Call me old-fashioned but why not just buy two new bolts from Skoda? Part number N10640301

 

well i generally shy away from dealers because they usually cost an arm and a leg and then beat you with the soggy bits but they are reasonable...... thanks! 

[vikingbezerker]

32 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

I have three sheds of dewm, it's Stoke you need rescuing from, not the shed! 

lol you say that its all relative i used to live in Blackburn, Stoke is paradise in comparison! 

[TMB]

8 minutes ago, vikingbezerker said:

 

well i generally shy away from dealers because they usually cost an arm and a leg and then beat you with the soggy bits but they are reasonable...... thanks! 

 

At least their bolts will have the Greenkote on them - not that it seems to make much difference as far as the consoles go

[sepulchrave]

36 minutes ago, TMB said:

 

At least their bolts will have the Greenkote on them - not that it seems to make much difference as far as the consoles go

 

Quite right, if the bolts had been installed with a smear of anti-seize at the factory then we wouldn't be in this mess, it's as if the manufacturer didn't even care...

[vikingbezerker]

2 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Quite right, if the bolts had been installed with a smear of anti-seize at the factory then we wouldn't be in this mess, it's as if the manufacturer didn't even care...

no it costs money and time...... tightwads

[vikingbezerker]

well another day another problem..... got to the dealers and grabbed the bolts (cheers TMB) came home started work on bolt removal...... drilled through it and went up in sizes  tap would not bite, still would not budge, so the red mist came down and the screwdriver and hammer came out

 

thread is banjaxed, was looking ropey from the back anyway, but a Helicoil kit is on its way so im prayting to get it finished this weekend . 

[TMB]

Bad luck  Nothing's ever bloody easy with cars.

[vikingbezerker]

expecting trouble for the other side, am going to try a tip i got off youtube, if it seizes when i do it, i'll drill it, and soak the remains in Alum, hopefully that will melt out the steel, if it works i will let you know, and post  the details for the group, it may well be a painless method of removal, if it dosen't then nothings lost.... heres where i got the idea.

 

 

 

Edited 13 April, 2018 by vikingbezerker

[vikingbezerker]

ok peeps... found a better method, will take the battery off and try this next time, might just solve the problem in one shot!