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Roomster Scout 1.9TDi with issues


BradD

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Hello 

 

I’ve browsed the forum for a while for Vag related issues however I’ve owned 16 Vag cars in last 10 years I’ve never owned a Skoda. Nor have I ever been faced with this issue.

  
I’m convinced this is an electrical problem but thought I would put it out there. 

I have purchased a Skoda Roomster Scout 1.9Tdi BSW code. I purchased it spares repairs for what I thought was a tidy fee. 

The car takes a little while to turn over but fires up. 
Runs smooth drives flat. 
 

I’ve attached my VCDS scan. 
 

Glow plug light flashing EML illuminated. Runs in limp mode. 

I think this is electrical fault on the basis the codes will not clear. Even if cleared and engine not started codes shown appear on the log immediately. 
Irrespective if engine is started or not if codes are cleared they return. 
The codes are circuit specific codes so this backs my theory up. 
 

Since the issue: 
New battery
Egr, anti shudder and intake cleaned of all carbon. (2cm thick of supermarket sludge) 
Turbo actuator tested holds vacuum 
Turbo has almost no play 
Intercooler flushed 
All boost pipes cleaned out. 
The vacuum pipe from servo was split this was changed out for another unsplit. 
New crankshaft sensor 
New camshaft sensor 

Torsion value checked and in tolerance
Vacuum box replaced 
Earth points checked and rebrushed where required.  

All fuses checked in cabin and on battery. 

Car has had a new starter motor in the last 6 months. 

Car still starts and runs however in limp mode and lights flashing 

I’m now at the point I’m checking all the wiring for breaks and corrosion however have not found anything.

 

One thing I will add is that I have picked up the wrong vacuum box. I picked up a mk5 golf one from the breakers so this could be an issue. 
 

Patiently waiting for Breezy_Pete to shower me with knowledge. 
 

IMG_5837.jpeg

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12 hours ago, BradD said:

Runs smooth drives flat. 


Just on this point alone, I had a 1.9 Passat which was the same. It turned out to be a dud air mass meter.  Dunno if your Scout even has one, so just a suggestion.

 

Gaz

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Does look quite likely to be a dodgy wire.

Will look at circuits after lunch. 

Full part numbers of original and current vac boxes may be useful info, as might VIN, which you could PM through.

 

What you've called anti-shudder is the V157 with two reported issues, so check wiring/connections at and near that if you haven't already, but I expect you have.

Never had any probs with supermarket fuel personally.

Diesels with functioning EGR just make lots of particulates whatever fuel is used (but less NOx); that's why DPFs were introduced. 

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Thank you Pete il send you the vin 

 

my vehicle when purchase was fitted with vacuum box number 6Q0906625C 

I have now damaged this beyond use attempting to see if it was the fault. 
After observing rust on the mesh to a port. 
 

I tried 6Q0906625 (no letter on the box) was 6 pin golf. 

I tried 6Q0906625A removed from a 2005 polo 1.4 TDi. Plug was different however was from a 4 pin car. 
I still need to find a C one to replace my C. 

The V157 wiring connector appears to be fine. I attempted to perform a function test earlier in VCDS however wasn’t moving nothing. 
 

im testing all earths and seems to be fine however

the below is the voltage when ignition is on. 
 

6 pin connector on harness: vac 

Pin 1 - BLANK 

Pin 2 - BLANK 

Pin 3 - blue and black wire 0v 

Pin 4 - blue and black wire 0v 

Pin 5 - purple and white 1.3v 

Pin 6 - brown and white 0v 

 

4 pin connector EGR. 

Pin 1 - Brown 0v has continuity to earth 

Pin 2 - blue and black 0v  

Pin 3 - red and blue wire 0v 

Pin 4 - red and violet wire 4v 

 

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Further testing on the G28 harness 3 pin plug. 
With ignition on 

 

Pin 1 - White 4.5v 

Pin 2 - Brown 4.5v 

Pin 3 - black 0v has continuity with earth.  

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Current part number for vac box for your VIN is 6Q0906625G, which skoda-parts suggests is the only definite equivalent for suffix-C Magnetic Valve Block Škoda 6Q0906625G (skoda-parts.com)

Grey part numbers below main title.

 

Wouldn't necessarily assume that's the issue though.

Delving into circuits shortly. 

 

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6 pin connector on harness: vac 

continuity from plug to ecu plug 

Pin 1 - BLANK 

Pin 2 - BLANK 

Pin 3 - blue and black wire- doesn’t appear at ECU

Pin 4 - blue and black wire - doesn’t appear at ECU 

Pin 5 - purple and white has continuity 

Pin 6 - brown and white has continuity 

 

4 pin connector EGR. 

Pin 1 - Brown 0v has continuity to earth 

Pin 2 - blue and black 0v  doesn’t appear at ecu 

Pin 3 - red and blue wire- has continuity

Pin 4 - red and violet wire- has continuity 

 

where do the blue and black wires goes. ? 

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Fuse 28 ( a 10 amp one) looks like your prime suspect, was just about to write about the fact that those blue/black wires come from that fuse.

May not be live unless engine running though, it's fed via fuel pump    engine ECU relay.

 

Check by substitution with a fresh one ideally, and look out for corrosion or looseness of fusebox contacts. 

 

Edited by Breezy_Pete
relay correction
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So……. 
struggles to start still I get 

camshaft implausible signal P0341 

however all codes relating to egr etc are staying off.

will need to test drive yet. 
 

il check torsion values for the camshaft code 

 

camshaft sensor was replaced yesterday. 
 

My front windows don’t work 

I wonder if someone has been on a fuse spree …….. 

 

appreciate the wealth of knowledge Pete 

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Fuses 11, 51 and 52 for windows.  Have they worked at all since buying?

Starting with closed and locked car, try turning and holding key turned fully clockwise in driver's door lock. See if anything other than unlocking happens after a few seconds.

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Torsion value corrected 

 

now starts on the button 

 

It’s a little Smokey black out the back

Wonder if the cat is blocked following a period of running like this. 
might just need a spirited drive. 
 

going to call it a day now. 
 

and order the correct vacuum box 
 

 

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Good work.

Yes, probably just needs its exhaust clearing out with some hot stuff 🔥

I presume you're not thinking of new genuine for the vac box, price had me gasping?

 

Let me know in due course if you need a window motor repair. :)

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Price for a new one is nuts 

il be sourcing a replacement from a breaker. 

I’ve shut shop and packed in for today will resume over the weekend. 
 

I’ve spent 12hours a day the last 3 days in a freezing cold garage with nothing but a can of red bull and a bag of haribo. 
All for the sake of a blade fuse 🤮.

On the plus side.
Cost me £68 for crank and cam sensors.  

 

thank you for your assistance your knowledge and access to diagrams etc is massively appreciated. 

i shal update this thread in due course. 

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Just for the sake of others who may be reading. Circuits for any Skoda are accessible to anyone, downloadable from erWin skoda for a small fee. Less than a tenner.

Found via Individual vehicle info tab, Repair information.

 

I'm quite worried about your health just now, with the described nutritional input.:sadsmile: 

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Torsion value is challenging to adjust isn"t it!

 

Its so so easy to knock it way past the small correction that you are trying to achieve, did you get any false "spot on" Zero values when you accidentally knocked it outside of the reported values?

 

There are 3 zero values for torsion value, one is spot on, the others are outside of limits and usually the engine will not even start.

 

It is not a VCDS parameter on my 2.0 CR TDi which I am quite pleased about, one less thing for me to screw up.

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Yes the torsion value can be difficult to get. 
I find some are pains some are fine. 
 

Vw more than likely have a tool in house that allows this to be set a lot easier.  
 

what I find a pain is that VCDS doesn’t always name it as torsion value. 
Sometimes doesn’t even show it. 
 

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So the car seems to be running fine. 
Won’t be able to get the MOT done until later on in the week so Il hang fire on the long drive till then. 
 

i fitted a wiper motor and linkage today I found on a 12 plate breaker in a local yard.

Previous one had worn out and failed.

I’ve checked over the underneath whilst it was on the ramp today and all looks well. 
The two failures on the MOT have been rectified so should sail through. 
 

Electric windows however 🤯

Today I removed the drivers door card. 
Unplugged the loom from the A pillar and removed it from the car. 
Had a little nosey at the wiring and it looks like it has the same problem every other Roomster has. Broken wires in the harness. 
 

So I’ve repaired the best I could and still not getting anything at the switch. 
 

I checked the pins on in the A pillar and one was a bit green so I’ve rectified that. 

Interestingly the convenience closure with the key in the door and holding the fob does not lower the windows. 
 

Fuse 11,51 and 52 are all ok.
 

I will try some further testing in the morning.
 

I had a little look on VCDS the other day to see if the window module shows in however I couldn’t find it.  

 

 

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I see. 
I will double check connivence opening and closure is activated in BCM then. I’d imagine it is but just to be sure. 
 

Earth is fine. Interestingly though the power going to the motor had continuity with earth. 
So to me means it is shorting out. 

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On cars with these motors, convenience opening and closing is purely controlled via signals from lock modules going via window motor module. Just turn key and hold it turned.

 

Fob buttons, BCM, everything else uninvolved.

 

Does central locking currently work via key in door? 

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