Hi to all,

can anyone experienced some engine hickups or rattles on idle, after first morning ignition of engine ?

I notice that behavior few days ago, with duration of 15-20 seconds , but already noticed that when weather was colder, after ignition engine revs at 1200 rpm some time (20-30 secs) and then drops on ~700,

Now, revs are dropped no ~700 slightly after ignition. Is this consequence of higher outside temperatures ?

I have 1.2 TSI.

Hi to all,

can anyone experienced some engine hickups or rattles on idle, after first morning ignition of engine ?

I notice that behavior few days ago, with duration of 15-20 seconds , but already noticed that when weather was colder, after ignition engine revs at 1200 rpm some time (20-30 secs) and then drops on ~700,

Now, revs are dropped no ~700 slightly after ignition. Is this consequence of higher outside temperatures ?

I have 1.2 TSI.

The manual states that some initial engine rattle is normal in the TSI engine. It is all to do with oil pressure. Just don't rev it hard in those early moments or you will wear it out in no time.

I haven't really noticed any rattle from mine on start up but I did have a slightly uneven idle for a few moments yesterday. Sorted itself out a few seconds after start up though.

The manual states that some initial engine rattle is normal in the TSI engine. It is all to do with oil pressure. Just don't rev it hard in those early moments or you will wear it out in no time.

I haven't really noticed any rattle from mine on start up but I did have a slightly uneven idle for a few moments yesterday. Sorted itself out a few seconds after start up though.

Same, here it ideles unevenly, feels like the choke (do they sitll have auto choke nowadays) hasn't been pulled out.

Even in the coldest morning (well coldest I have been was 4 degrees) it still starts and idle at 700 rpm

:yes:I have same problem, but i think that is a normal

Same, here it ideles unevenly, feels like the choke (do they sitll have auto choke nowadays) hasn't been pulled out.

Modern fuel injection cars don't have chokes any more - the electronic fuel injection system is supposed to make sure that the engine always ge the correct fuel/air mixture depending on the engine's temperature etc.

Yep, same problem here, no matter whether the AC is on or off ...

I can't say I've noticed any rattles, but it sure feels like the engine is not running as smoothly as otherwise for the first seconds after a "cold" start (still over 20 degrees centigrades so not exatly cold starts!), but once I put it in gear and slowly drives away there are no problems. It also takes a few seconds to start whereas my old TDI PD always started by almost looking at the key :yes:

Did any one of you with this problem went to the machanic to ask is that normal or does it need to be fixed?

I have the same problem reported at the very first post with my Roomster, and it is very annoying. It behaves like the engine runs with three cylinders but after 20 - 30 secs it runs smoothly. The problem? happens at no periodical time but whenever the car decides.

Two days ago it did it again even the external temperature was 17 degrees C. My dealer told me that he has no idea and there were no errors logged when we pluged the car. This is quite normal, the empty error log, since no warning light appears on the dash while bad cold start idling occurs. May be it is ECU update issue since 1.2 Tsi Polos had many problems like this which solved with ECU's update.

I have also experienced this. Not just in the morning when the engine is cold but during whole day when engine is warm also.

As somebody said it happens at no periodical times but whenever car decides it.

It always happens as soon as I change to neutral gear. It dont happen when in other gears or changing beatween gears...

I have the same problem reported at the very first post with my Roomster, and it is very annoying. It behaves like the engine runs with three cylinders but after 20 - 30 secs it runs smoothly. The problem? happens at no periodical time but whenever the car decides.

Two days ago it did it again even the external temperature was 17 degrees C. My dealer told me that he has no idea and there were no errors logged when we pluged the car. This is quite normal, the empty error log, since no warning light appears on the dash while bad cold start idling occurs. May be it is ECU update issue since 1.2 Tsi Polos had many problems like this which solved with ECU's update.

I asked my local dealer and no ECU update for Roomster yet.

I have the same problem reported at the very first post with my Roomster, and it is very annoying. It behaves like the engine runs with three cylinders but after 20 - 30 secs it runs smoothly. The problem? happens at no periodical time but whenever the car decides.

Two days ago it did it again even the external temperature was 17 degrees C. My dealer told me that he has no idea and there were no errors logged when we pluged the car. This is quite normal, the empty error log, since no warning light appears on the dash while bad cold start idling occurs. May be it is ECU update issue since 1.2 Tsi Polos had many problems like this which solved with ECU's update.

I have passed first regular service on 10000 km and as service guy told me, ECU log was clear, no any error messages related with cold start rattles. Despite that, rattles in first 20 sec. are still present and i couldn't find any logical key under which conditions they appear. Next step, i plan to leave my SM into service for a couple of days to find and repair this 'bug'.

I have passed first regular service on 10000 km and as service guy told me, ECU log was clear, no any error messages related with cold start rattles. Despite that, rattles in first 20 sec. are still present and i couldn't find any logical key under which conditions they appear. Next step, i plan to leave my SM into service for a couple of days to find and repair this 'bug'.

Exactly the same. Take a look heretoo. Please if you find any solution post it here or send me a pm.

Regards

Even my twin charger does it from stone cold. I think it's because they need to run a fair amount of fuel to start but they still try to keep emissions down. I just leave mine until it's settled before setting off.

They fixed my problem. Car-repair shop did remap ECU (software-last version) and Yeti works perfect now wothout rattle on cald start.

They fixed my problem. Car-repair shop did remap ECU (software-last version) and Yeti works perfect now wothout rattle on cald start.

Did they have new version of ECU software ???

Probably this software is the last version.This software run 20 october.I'm from Serbia.

I have to reopen this topic.

I have my Yeti 1.2 TSI for 7 months, and I have problems all that time.

First it was problem with cold start, rpm wasn't constant. I could see that cabin lights are blinking in rhythm with engine rpm going up and down. One month ago finally software was updated, and this problem is still present, but not as much as it used to be.

Now I have another problem, more serious one, because I almost made big car accident while I was passing bus. I will try to describe what is going on. Problem occurs in two situation:

1. driving normaly, slow down or stop, and when try to accelerate

2. going downhill and not stepping on gas pedal, just using gravitation

In those two situation "EPC" light starts to shine, and car goes to "safe mode". I guess turbine is off. It needs 30 sec to accelerate from 0 to 50 km/h. Than, after few turning off and on, "EPC" is off, and "check engine" light is on. Than I can drive normally for some period, until "EPC" is on again. This period can be from 15 sec to 2 hours.

I haven't got any answer from two local Skoda services in my town, and no response from Skoda general distributor for my country. That drives me mad. I paid for new car, I have big problems, and no support.

Does anybody know anything about these problems?

Thank you.

I have to reopen this topic.

I have my Yeti 1.2 TSI for 7 months, and I have problems all that time.

First it was problem with cold start, rpm wasn't constant. I could see that cabin lights are blinking in rhythm with engine rpm going up and down. One month ago finally software was updated, and this problem is still present, but not as much as it used to be.

Now I have another problem, more serious one, because I almost made big car accident while I was passing bus. I will try to describe what is going on. Problem occurs in two situation:

1. driving normaly, slow down or stop, and when try to accelerate

2. going downhill and not stepping on gas pedal, just using gravitation

In those two situation "EPC" light starts to shine, and car goes to "safe mode". I guess turbine is off. It needs 30 sec to accelerate from 0 to 50 km/h. Than, after few turning off and on, "EPC" is off, and "check engine" light is on. Than I can drive normally for some period, until "EPC" is on again. This period can be from 15 sec to 2 hours.

I haven't got any answer from two local Skoda services in my town, and no response from Skoda general distributor for my country. That drives me mad. I paid for new car, I have big problems, and no support.

Does anybody know anything about these problems?

Thank you.

to hear your having problems; anyway I believe some early 1.2TSI's had a faulty sensor, possibly cam position which could be your culprit.

Hope you can get this resolved.

TP

these days i'm experiencing cold start problems with my 1.2.

same symptoms :rattles, engine that seems to fail and lights blinking).

the engine has gone off just a couple of times and everything turns normal (smooth engine) just after 10-15 seconds.

I think that in this range of behaviour, all this can be considered "normal" for this kind of engine.

ps

still no update of software.

using 98 octane fuel

these days i'm experiencing cold start problems with my 1.2.

same symptoms :rattles, engine that seems to fail and lights blinking).

the engine has gone off just a couple of times and everything turns normal (smooth engine) just after 10-15 seconds.

I think that in this range of behaviour, all this can be considered "normal" for this kind of engine.

ps

still no update of software.

using 98 octane fuel

After rattles behavior takes serious dimension (i was forced to push gas pedal right after ignition every morning for 15-20 sec, after which engine starts to work normally )

i have visited authorized service , where failure in electronic parts on two of four nozzles was detected. All nozzles were changed ( fortunately warranty covers that ) and problems had gone.

Now i have no problems in morning , even on -12 C (lowest temp this winter in my town).

Btw, can anyone explain me which is function of cam sensor ?

Today on my Yeti was replaced a sensor on the fuel rail pressure and downloaded a software update in the ECU unit.

After rattles behavior takes serious dimension (i was forced to push gas pedal right after ignition every morning for 15-20 sec, after which engine starts to work normally )

i have visited authorized service , where failure in electronic parts on two of four nozzles was detected. All nozzles were changed ( fortunately warranty covers that ) and problems had gone.

Now i have no problems in morning , even on -12 C (lowest temp this winter in my town).

Btw, can anyone explain me which is function of cam sensor ?

Hello, I'm from Russia, so I apologize for my bad English.

Tell me please, what kind of fuel you use for this engine now, and what kind you used to detect failure?

After rattles behavior takes serious dimension (i was forced to push gas pedal right after ignition every morning for 15-20 sec, after which engine starts to work normally )

i have visited authorized service , where failure in electronic parts on two of four nozzles was detected. All nozzles were changed ( fortunately warranty covers that ) and problems had gone.

Now i have no problems in morning , even on -12 C (lowest temp this winter in my town).

Btw, can anyone explain me which is function of cam sensor ?

I also experienced rattle from the engine on a couple of occasions - inaudible from inside the car, but quite loud outside. The sound therefore might have been occuring without my knowledge sometimes as well.

Anywho - yesterday my car flatly refused to fire, starter ran, but no ignition.

Off on a flatbed it went - haven't got any word yet of what's wrong.

Modern fuel injection cars don't have chokes any more - the electronic fuel injection system is supposed to make sure that the engine always ge the correct fuel/air mixture depending on the engine's temperature etc.

Which I call "anti-stall"!

The advantage of this is that one can pull away from a stationary situation without using any throttle. This may seem pointless; but it is most useful in poor grip/snow conditions. It enabled me to get out of my lane during the recent cold spells when no-one else could. Far better than the old advice of "use a higher gear".