A guide to popular Yeti options

[The Plumber]

Electronic Stability Program (ESP)

How it works

The ESP system is an ‘Active Safety System’ (air bags are passive systems, i.e. they only work during an accident) which is designed to assist the driver maintain control in situations in which the vehicle is at its very limits of controllability (and possible outside the capabilities of the average driver to control without assistance), such as entering a bend too fast or taking avoiding action if there is something in the road.

The ESP control unit constantly processes data from various systems (such as ABS) and via additional sensors information on the steering angle, brake pressures, rotational velocity of the vehicle about its vertical axis and lateral acceleration. If differences are detected between the vehicles expected and actual behaviour, such as entering a skid for instance, then the ESP will automatically brake an appropriate wheel in an effort to stabilise the vehicle.

Application of the brake system takes place primarily on the outer front wheel of a vehicle which is trying to over-steer (the rear of the vehicle is trying to break away which could cause a spin) or the inner rear wheel of a vehicle which is tending towards under-steer (the vehicle tries to pull out of a bend and go straight ahead).

My link

Worth having?

This system could be a life saver and should be fitted as a matter of course. There are moves to make its fitment mandatory in EU countries. Some already do although Skoda UK still insists on leaving it in the options list on all but the highest specifications of trim.

Note for the SE models without ESP as standard (manual 2wd) then the Park Assist is a good option to go for as it includes ESP as part of the package (Do not let dealers con you in to paying for both).

Safety Note

ESP does have limits; it does not give the driver licence to drive fast or recklessly. Its effectiveness very much depends on the road and weather conditions, serviceability of the vehicle and its tyres and the dynamics of the overall situation the driver finds themselves in.

Always drive to the prevailing conditions.

Tyre Pressure Monitor (TPM)

How it works

The TPM system compares with the aid of the ABS sensors the speed / rolling circumference of the individual wheels. If the rolling circumference of a wheel is changed such as a puncture, the warning light lights up in the instrument cluster and an audible signal sounds.

Worth having?

Useful for lower profile tyres were it’s more difficult to spot visually an underinflated tyre. Be aware though that it’s not going to give you prior warning of a blowout or tell you which tyre is at fault if you do have a slow puncture and it’s no substitute for regularly checking your tyres with a proper tyre gauge.

Hill Hold (Uphill start off assist)

How it works

Hill Hold is active when stationary on 3 % or more slope (vehicle doors closed) when in forward or reverse gear and the foot brake is applied (when starting off downhill, it is inactive). The system assists by holding the brake pressure produced by the brake pedal actuation for approx. 2 seconds after releasing the brake pedal. The driver can therefore move his foot from the brake pedal to the accelerator pedal and start off on the slope, without having to use the handbrake. The brake pressure drops gradually the more you operate the accelerator pedal, if the vehicle does not start off within 2 seconds, it will roll back.

Worth having?

Personally like this function and find I’m missing it when driving other cars. Think it also complements the off-road button (standard with 7 speed DSG).

Off-road button

How it works

This function is only available on the 4x4 specification and is designed to enhance the capabilities of the Yeti away from the ‘metalled’ highway or on snow covered roads. Quite simply it enhances the electronic driver aids already fitted to the 4x4 models to improve the controllability of the vehicle in these more extreme conditions, by altering the operating parameters of the following systems:

ESP (Electronic Stability Program) / EDL (Electronic Differential Lock)

TCS (Traction Control System) (Sometimes refered to as ASR - Anti Slip Regulation)

ABS (Anti-lock Brake System)

The ‘off-road’ mode is controlled by a switch (button) on the centre console which illuminates when selected on and is active up to speeds of 30 mph (above this speed the light goes out). There is also a warning symbol within the speedometer module that lights up steady when the system is engaged and flashes while undertaking functions such as hill decent. The off-road mode comprises of:

Start assist

To assist the vehicle in pulling away on wet, slippery or snowy road surfaces, the accelerator operation is altered (slowed down) to reduce wheel slip. It also allows the accelerator to be fully pressed but with the RPM restricted to 2,500 thus preventing damage to the clutch and engine.

Downhill assist

Designed to ensure a stable speed can be maintained during a descent (gradient at least 10% ) down slippery, wet or snowy road surfaces (engine running, gears engaged in neutral, first, second, third or reverse gear). It works by using the ESP system to control the braking of wheels individually to maintain a given speed of decent (selected by the driver up to 30mph) and prevent wheel locking.

EDL off-road

The EDL system endeavours to maintain traction by comparing the RPM of each wheel, if wheelslip is detected then the slipping wheel or wheels are braked until a uniform RPM at all 4 wheels can be established again; this includes diagonally across axles.

ASR off-road

The ASR system is adjusted to manage a higher slippage rate on the driving wheels to improves acceleration on slippery surfaces

ABS off-road

This system adjustment introduces ‘longer braking’ to create a ‘chock’ of surface material in front of the wheels to enhancing vehicle breaking on loose surfaces.

Safety Note

Control in the off-road mode very much depends on the surface type and conditions and the suitability of the tyres fitted; off-road or winter tyres would be required to get the best from the system in poor conditions.

Do not turn off the ‘off-road’ mode while the system is carrying out functions such as hill decent (symbol flashing) as this could lead to a dangerous loss of control and damage to the system components.

Also remember the Yeti is a ‘soft roader’ not a Land Rover; do not try driving operations that are beyond your capabilities (and experience) or that of the Yeti itself.

Worth having?

Might appear slightly expensive for an electronics upgrade but worth it; one of those bits of kit that should be standard in my book.

Bi-xenon headlights

How it works

Xenon high-intensity-discharge (HID) headlights are named after the inert gas employed to amplify the light produced by electricity jumping between two electrodes within the bulb, which produces a slightly bluish light up to three times brighter than halogen headlights. These lights do not use a filament (as with Halogen bulbs); therefore they tend to last two to three times longer. They also provide much more uniform intensity. These xenon headlights require high voltages to start up, typically requiring 15,000 volts and around 80 volts thereafter. Therefore a ‘ballast’ (a type of transformer) has to be fitted as part of the lighting system to boost the voltage.

Xenon equipped vehicles generally only offer a low-beam HID headlight with a conventional halogen bulb being used for the high beam (as with the Octavia). Bi-xenon headlights offer xenon-light output for both the low and high beams, by placing the bulb in a capsule/projector. Bi-xenon headlights typically have a shade or filter in front of the bulb during low-beam operation and when high-beam is needed, the shade moves out of the way and the bulb’s full-light output is projected onto the road.

The Yeti also offers dynamic angle control, which allows the lens to move, thus enabling the lights to follow the steering input and follow the curve of the road.

This Dynamic control system also provides a continental driving function (via the Maxidot computer) to ‘lock’ the lights into an opposite side of the road position, thus doing away with the need to ‘tape up’ the headlights when travelling abroad.

Worth having?

An expensive option but if you do a lot of night driving or travelling abroad then probably worth the additional cost.

Auto Lights with Coming Home Leaving Home function

How it works

If the light control is switched to the Auto position (extra setting position on the light selection dial), the lights are controlled by a light sensor in the internal rear view mirror mounting on the windscreen (this unit can also include the rain sensor if fitted). If the light intensity drops below the set value, for example driving during the day into a tunnel or obviously at night, the dipped beam, side lights and rear lights come on automatically. If the light intensity increases again, the lights switch off automatically.

Note: the lights can also come on with the windscreen wiper operation or driving at high speed (over 87mph or 140km/h).

The Coming Home function relies on the light switch being in Auto and will leave the lights on in darkness after turning off the ignition and opening the driver’s door. The lights will go out 10 seconds after closing all doors including the boot or 60 seconds if the doors are left open.

The Leaving Home function will after unlocking the vehicle with the radio remote control, turn the lights come on for 10 seconds (if dark). The Leaving Home Function is also switched off after the ignition is switched on and after locking the vehicle. If no door is opened within 30 seconds, the lights go out and the vehicle is locked automatically.

Worth having?

Not an expensive option and some taller drivers have reported the lower positioned standard mirror holder blocks the view.

From a negative point you will still need to select the lights manually to the dipped beam position in fog, as the Auto position does not allow Fog Light selection and the light sensor cannot be relied upon to detect weather conditions.

Rain Sensor and Auto-Dimming Rear View Mirror

How it works

The rain sensor as far as I’m aware is linked to a number of functions on the Yeti depending on its specification, the most obvious function being auto windscreen wipers. These are activated by moving wiper lever up to the first position. The sensitivity of the auto wipe function can be controlled by the rocker switch positioned on the top of the lever arm. The Auto dimming mirror system includes this function on the internal and driver’s side external wing mirrors but not the passenger side wing mirror which is standard.

Worth having?

Expensive option and a small number of owners have reported the wiper system can either be under or over sensitive, even after adjusting the sensitivity switch.

Cornering Front Fog Lights

How it works

Fog lights with the “Corner†function (they do not ‘turn in’ as with cornering headlights) are active when the dipped beam lights are on (manual or Auto selection) and are regulated according to the steering angle or by selecting the direction indicators with the vehicle is stationary (engine is running) or driving with a speed up to 25mph or 40 km/h. For example turning or indicating left then the left front fog light will illuminate, and vice versa for right. Note: when reversing then both front fogs illuminate.

Worth having?

Fairly expensive option but I have found this a useful function on narrow twisty lanes were you have to drop below 25mph to negotiate a bend. Also helps when parking in poorly lit streets and car parks.

Park assist

How it works

The park assist system can assist you with parking in a suitable parallel parking space between two vehicles or behind a vehicle.

On selection (and travelling below 30 km/h) the park assist automatically searches for suitable parking spaces using sensors mounted in the bumpers. During the parking procedure the park assist only takes over the steering movements, the pedals and gears continue to be operated by the driver.

This option also includes front park sensors (rear sensors standard on SE & Elegance) which can be controlled indipendantly of the Park assist program via it's own switch. Also manual 2wd models fitted with this option will have ESP fitted as part of the package for no additional cost.

Worth having?

If you do a lot of street parking this could be for you. A number of owners have commented on how small a space the system can fit the Yeti into. Although there has been the odd negative comment such as not it not recognising a large space as suitable, overall I think owners who have this system fitted are happy with it.

Rough road pack

Description

The rough road packs primary feature is a pressed steel (August 2010 build on; thermoplastic) engine under-tray which replaces the standard plastic tray. There are also plastic shields protecting the rear axial beams and coil springs, plastic covers for the fuel and brake lines and reinforcement to the brake fluid distribution system and hand-brake cable.

Although not confirmed in any Skoda literature but evident on Yeti’s with the rough road pack fitted, is stone guard tape on the rear doors running round the arch at the rear of the door.

Note: the front of the rear wheel arch is an area on many cars prone to stone impact damage.

Worth having?

The Yeti is a soft roader and this pack reflects that by its fairly minimal level of additional protection. However I personally think it’s worth having on a vehicle like the Yeti even on the 2wd models, as that steel tray does at least offer a better level of protection to the engines oil sump.

Panoramic sunroof

Description

Currently withdrawn from the options list as it would appear demand has outstripped supply.

aerofurb posted some very good photo's of his Snow-Monster with this option so please follow My link

TP

edit; thanks for your input prodata, amended

Edited 27 November, 2010 by The Plumber

[Macdemon]

VERY useful info, thanks TP

[prodata]

A tiny suggested edit to the original post:

'Worth having' ==> 'Worth having?'

At first reading I thought this line was a summary of the value of the option in question - ie all the options mentioned were worth having!

[freewheeler]

thanks for all that tp,by the way,how easy is it to change a bulb on the yeti and are they expensive[dealer part or corner shop item??].

mike.

[ernieb]

Thanks TP - very usefull

ernieb

[The Plumber]

thanks for all that tp,by the way,how easy is it to change a bulb on the yeti and are they expensive[dealer part or corner shop item??].

mike.

Hi Mike,

depends which bulb your thinking of, xenons are expensive and generally considered a dealer job unless your an ardent DIY'r.

With the Yeti the front indicators are also problematic as you have to remove the bumper and light unit. Once you've done that then you have to break off a small panel on the back of the unit to access the indicator bulb. Then fit a new cover supplied with the bulb kit from the dealer. Obviously to finish off you have to put the Monster back together. So again if DIY is not your thing then it's back to the dealer

Front halogen headlight and foglight bulbs can be changed but access is tight, although the rears are pretty straight forward, just have to remove the light units by releasing the two retaining screws with the supplied tool (in the boot tool box)

Regards,

TP

edit typo

Edited 30 May, 2010 by The Plumber

[freewheeler]

looks like the bulb replacment will be an expensive problem :'( just how reliable are these bulbs???can you use other bulbs??dont fancy taking off front bumper just to change a bulb ,looks like a long job and with skodas labour charge....wow.

mike.

[Macdemon]

looks like the bulb replacment will be an expensive problem :'( just how reliable are these bulbs???can you use other bulbs??dont fancy taking off front bumper just to change a bulb ,looks like a long job and with skodas labour charge....wow.

mike.

What sort of headlamp bulb does the SM take??

H1, H7???

[The Plumber]

What sort of headlamp bulb does the SM take??

H1, H7???

Hi Macdemon,

Main bulb for the Halogen dipped / main beam is the combind H4 (For xenon it's D1S)

Fogs H7

Theres a full list of the required bulbs for all other locations on page 238 of the owners handbook My link

The DRL bulbs are a special low energy long life item that in theory anyway should outlast the life cycle of the Yeti it's fitted too

Regards,

TP

[The Plumber]

looks like the bulb replacment will be an expensive problem just how reliable are these bulbs???can you use other bulbs??dont fancy taking off front bumper just to change a bulb ,looks like a long job and with skodas labour charge....wow.

mike.

Hi freewheelr,

taking of the bumper is a fairly straight forward and quick task and this type of access to lights etc is not uncommon on a number of modern cars.

Regards,

TP

[My_Yeti]

Good job there, thanks! That was an expansive list!

I might just add that I have recently notice (for sure) that there are light sensor on even the S (dashboard dims when it is dark outside to warn driver that the light is not switched on) and could be easily upgradeable.

[shrub]

Looking forward to the first SMO to remove their bumper and do an indicator change job with step by step photos. Will save long term owners a few pennies and interesting reading for all of us.

[900000]

TP can you please add something on the tow bar option? I've lost track in the tow bar thread. Which ones to tick as options and if like me you did not tick tow bar prep is it possible to completely retro-fit etc. Thanks.

[mbrock]

My interpretation of "Skoda-speak" for the lighting (which may be wrong) is:

"Dynamic Angle Control" is what most people call self-levelling - which is a legal requirement (along with headlamp washers) for xenon lights.

"Curve Projector" is the steering function for the main projector modules - this is also available on the Roomster with conventional halogen projector lights.

And I believe the "tourist light" maxi-dot function just suppresses the left-hand "kick-up" which is normally present on dipped beam on RHD cars.

Mark

[Agerbundsen]

My interpretation of "Skoda-speak" for the lighting (which may be wrong) is:

"Dynamic Angle Control" is what most people call self-levelling - which is a legal requirement (along with headlamp washers) for xenon lights.

"Curve Projector" is the steering function for the main projector modules - this is also available on the Roomster with conventional halogen projector lights.

And I believe the "tourist light" maxi-dot function just suppresses the left-hand "kick-up" which is normally present on dipped beam on RHD cars.

Mark

Correct on all three - and the tourist function on LHD cars work the same - even though the kick-up is on the other side. So driving on the "wrong side" of the road converts the dipped beams from asymmetric to symmetric and does not illuminate the near side as well as it does at home.

[hmibennett]

Is it really true that the bi-xenon option includes automatic adjustment for LH/RH driving? I drive a lot on mainland Europe and would swap my Octavia Scout for a Yeti (which I'm considering anyway) for this possibility alone!

[Papiu]

Is it really true that the bi-xenon option includes automatic adjustment for LH/RH driving? I drive a lot on mainland Europe and would swap my Octavia Scout for a Yeti (which I'm considering anyway) for this possibility alone!

Well, not exactly automatic, you have to set it up through the driver´s computer -maxi-dot menu-. But, YES, YOU CAN. (No need of stickers).

[900000]

Is it really true that the bi-xenon option includes automatic adjustment for LH/RH driving? I drive a lot on mainland Europe and would swap my Octavia Scout for a Yeti (which I'm considering anyway) for this possibility alone!

The only car that does this automatically is the new Audi A8 - its lights are controlled but the Sat Nav so it knows about curves ahead and adjusts the lights accordingly. Thus it also knows when you cross the channel and adjusts the lights for you.

[SydneySider]

Is there a link to get the full ordering codes / configurator codes for all Yeti options?

[alecd]

I hope this is in the right place.

Can someone explain the options available for a Yeti to cover the boot? Is there a retracting cover, and if so,is it a factory or dealer option. What is the difference between that and a "Boot Cover" (referred to as a "boot hover" in the dealer options.

I am waiting impatiently for a white Elegance 170 expected around early/mid March.

Thanks all.

[rockhopper]

I hope this is in the right place.

Can someone explain the options available for a Yeti to cover the boot? Is there a retracting cover, and if so,is it a factory or dealer option. What is the difference between that and a "Boot Cover" (referred to as a "boot hover" in the dealer options.

I am waiting impatiently for a white Elegance 170 expected around early/mid March.

Thanks all.

Hi and welcome

The rear compartment cover/parcel shelf is rigid, not retractable.

I think the boot cover is something that covers the gap between the rear seats and the parcel shelf, for when the rear seats are not reclined back.

Mike

[alecd]

Thanks Mike.

[kino]

Just to let you guys know that our beloved Yeti will be getting quite a few new tricks near the end of the year. Most important new option will be a white/black/grey/beige roof option. Can't wait :yes:

[alecd]

Hi Mike,

depends which bulb your thinking of, xenons are expensive and generally considered a dealer job unless your an ardent DIY'r.

With the Yeti the front indicators are also problematic as you have to remove the bumper and light unit. Once you've done that then you have to break off a small panel on the back of the unit to access the indicator bulb. Then fit a new cover supplied with the bulb kit from the dealer. Obviously to finish off you have to put the Monster back together. So again if DIY is not your thing then it's back to the dealer

Front halogen headlight and foglight bulbs can be changed but access is tight, although the rears are pretty straight forward, just have to remove the light units by releasing the two retaining screws with the supplied tool (in the boot tool box)

Regards,

TP

edit typo

[alecd]

Hi Mike,

depends which bulb your thinking of, xenons are expensive and generally considered a dealer job unless your an ardent DIY'r.

With the Yeti the front indicators are also problematic as you have to remove the bumper and light unit. Once you've done that then you have to break off a small panel on the back of the unit to access the indicator bulb. Then fit a new cover supplied with the bulb kit from the dealer. Obviously to finish off you have to put the Monster back together. So again if DIY is not your thing then it's back to the dealer

Front halogen headlight and foglight bulbs can be changed but access is tight, although the rears are pretty straight forward, just have to remove the light units by releasing the two retaining screws with the supplied tool (in the boot tool box)

Regards,

TP

edit typo