They're here

[ejstubbs]

So DPD finally managed to get my missing fourth winter tyre+steel wheel delivered yesterday. Having felt less than 100% confident with the Yeti's grip on the way home from work I resolved to get the new boots on that evening. So I donned my stout footwear, fleece hat and head torch, grabbed the socket set, torque wrench and the 2T hydraulic trolley jack and set out to do battle in the snow and the darkness with my Skoda.

It was actually a lot less painful than I had feared. Certainly whoever invented the trolley jack deserves some kind of medal - even having shovelled snow off the work area I wouldn't have fancied trying to jack the car up using the screw jack in the spare wheel kit. And the flimsy-looking plastic tweezers actually work fine for their intended job of pulling off the wheel bolt caps. A couple of things did strike me, though:

• I thought alloy wheels were supposed to be light? They felt just as heavy as the steel ones I was putting on!
  
• I never did find markings on the plastic cover of the lower sill to help me locate the jacking points. I had to scrape them clear of congealed road slush but even then couldn't find any markings. Was I missing something really obvious? (The diagram in Fig 179 in the owner's manual doesn't strike me as being stunningly clear, either.)
  

Having double checked everything, I de-iced the windows (which had frosted up nicely while I was grovelling in the snow) and took it out for a gentle shakedown on the local snow-covered streets. I doubt I got above 25mph but OMG what a difference! It stops! It goes! It steers! And all without a hint of drama! If nothing else, it just goes to show how rubbish the 255/50 17" Dunlops really are on snow and ice.

So count me in as another convert to the benefits of winter tyres. Now I just need to see if my insurance company feel the same way...

I do have a couple of minor questions outstanding after this exercise - I'd be grateful for any input:

1. I bought a set of VW T5 16" wheel centre covers off eBay. Am I right in thinking that these are supposed to clip on to the head of the safety wheel bolt on each wheel? There doesn't seem to be any other way to attach them.
   
2. I did think about putting a small amount of anti-seize compound eg copaslip on the wheel bolt threads - or on the mating surface with the wheel. Good idea? Bad idea? Suicidal idea?
   

[bilun777]

I've used copaslip or similar for xx years stops the wheels welding themselves to the hubs if nothing else... :yes:

[kibby]

So DPD finally managed to get my missing fourth winter tyre+steel wheel delivered yesterday. Having felt less than 100% confident with the Yeti's grip on the way home from work I resolved to get the new boots on that evening. So I donned my stout footwear, fleece hat and head torch, grabbed the socket set, torque wrench and the 2T hydraulic trolley jack and set out to do battle in the snow and the darkness with my Skoda.

It was actually a lot less painful than I had feared. Certainly whoever invented the trolley jack deserves some kind of medal - even having shovelled snow off the work area I wouldn't have fancied trying to jack the car up using the screw jack in the spare wheel kit. And the flimsy-looking plastic tweezers actually work fine for their intended job of pulling off the wheel bolt caps. A couple of things did strike me, though:

• I thought alloy wheels were supposed to be light? They felt just as heavy as the steel ones I was putting on!
  
• I never did find markings on the plastic cover of the lower sill to help me locate the jacking points. I had to scrape them clear of congealed road slush but even then couldn't find any markings. Was I missing something really obvious? (The diagram in Fig 179 in the owner's manual doesn't strike me as being stunningly clear, either.)
  

Having double checked everything, I de-iced the windows (which had frosted up nicely while I was grovelling in the snow) and took it out for a gentle shakedown on the local snow-covered streets. I doubt I got above 25mph but OMG what a difference! It stops! It goes! It steers! And all without a hint of drama! If nothing else, it just goes to show how rubbish the 255/50 17" Dunlops really are on snow and ice.

So count me in as another convert to the benefits of winter tyres. Now I just need to see if my insurance company feel the same way...

I do have a couple of minor questions outstanding after this exercise - I'd be grateful for any input:

1. I bought a set of VW T5 16" wheel centre covers off eBay. Am I right in thinking that these are supposed to clip on to the head of the safety wheel bolt on each wheel? There doesn't seem to be any other way to attach them.
   
2. I did think about putting a small amount of anti-seize compound eg copaslip on the wheel bolt threads - or on the mating surface with the wheel. Good idea? Bad idea? Suicidal idea?
   

[/quote

The jacking point markings are on the underside of the plastic sill (in the horizontal plane (the daftest point possible as you have to lie

on the ground to see them (large arrowhead)). I have stuck a small piece of unobtrusive tape on the vertical, clear to see part of the sill.

My Honda CRV achieves the same by moulding an arrowhead in the vertical part of the sill...Doesn't detract from appearance and impossible to miss when standing upright. Somebody at Skoda not using brain/common sense me thinks

Edited 22 December, 2010 by kibby

[Gizmo]

You don't put the copperslip on the mating surface just on the part of the hub that locates the wheel in the centre bore of the wheel.

[900000]

• I thought alloy wheels were supposed to be light? They felt just as heavy as the steel ones I was putting on!

My thoughts exactly! I was amazed at how heavy they were when I wheeled them into my back garden!

1. I bought a set of VW T5 16" wheel centre covers off eBay. Am I right in thinking that these are supposed to clip on to the head of the safety wheel bolt on each wheel? There doesn't seem to be any other way to attach them.

Yes, the plastic hooks on the back just clip over the bolts. Just don't try to clip them over the wheel bolt caps - these need to be stored with your alloys.

[Wardy]

I thought alloy wheels were supposed to be light? They felt just as heavy as the steel ones I was putting on!

Some alloys are lighter than others

But not any of the Skoda OEM range it would seem...

[ejstubbs]

The jacking point markings are on the underside of the plastic sill (in the horizontal plane (the daftest point possible as you have to lie on the ground to see them (large arrowhead)). I have stuck a small piece of unobtrusive tape on the vertical, clear to see part of the sill.

Thanks, I'll try to have another look tonight and maybe put some tape there as you suggest.

the plastic hooks on the back just clip over the bolts.

That's what I deduced. However, the ones I got have five large round clips on the back, which don't grip the normal wheel bolt heads at all - and are a b1tch of a tight fit on the safety bolt head! Oh well, I suppose they're unlikely to go flying off if they fit that tight. Or have I managed to get some that aren't actually right? These are the VW T5 wheel covers I bought.

Just don't try to clip them over the wheel bolt caps - these need to be stored with your alloys.

Now that I did manage to work out myself!

[speedsport]

[*]I did think about putting a small amount of anti-seize compound eg copaslip on the wheel bolt threads - or on the mating surface with the wheel. Good idea? Bad idea? Suicidal idea?

No, you are not supposed to put anything on the threads or cone of the bolts, because you could then over do it when tighening them up.

However for the last 30+ years, I have always put a smear of copaslip on the threads, cones & mating surface (particularly the centre boss), and reduce the torque slightly on my wrench to compensate (& yes, I do use a torque wrench every time). Never had any problems, though I do always re-check the bolts after 100 miles or so. Consequently, I've never struggled to undo a wheel bolt. Mind you, I do carry a telescopic wheel wrench & dont rely on the factory supplied one to undo (but not tighten) the bolts.

[900000]

That's what I deduced. However, the ones I got have five large round clips on the back, which don't grip the normal wheel bolt heads at all - and are a b1tch of a tight fit on the safety bolt head! Oh well, I suppose they're unlikely to go flying off if they fit that tight. Or have I managed to get some that aren't actually right? These are the VW T5 wheel covers I bought.

They are the correct ones yes. And the tighter the better surely!? The little holes in the design is there so that you can fit the steel clip thing from the boot through these holes to pull them off should you need to. You can't get them off with your hands which keeps them semi-safe!

The silver one at the bottom with the round end:

Photo courtesy of TP's Spare wheel assembly thread!

[ejstubbs]

They are the correct ones yes.

Well, I had another go tonight and they definitely aren't fitting. Having fiddled about a bit more it's clear that the projections on the back of the covers, while they interfere with but don't actually grip the normal wheel bolts, aren't actually long enough to engage with the safety wheel bolt head.

I suspect this is because the profile of the wheel, which was supplied by mytyres as compatible with the Yeti but which isn't actually a VAG part, isn't exactly the same as that of the genuine VAG wheel. I imagine that if I trimmed the cover down to a smaller diameter it might sit further inside the dished part of the wheel and thus engage OK. I might experiment - or I might just drive around with naked wheels after all.

[London Les]

I strongly recommend NOT putting anything on the stud threads or under the stud heads.

The torque stated in the manual is associated with the correct shank tension in the studs. Lubricating the threads can mean much more - 2 or 3 times more - tension in the studs for the same torque. Over-tightening is as bad as under-tightening as it is possible to yield and weaken stud without realising it. For this reason the offshore industry has moved away from torquing studs to using hydraulic tensioners - the errors in torquing because of various protective coatings and lubricants on the bolts can be massive.

I can see the logic in putting a light coat between the hub and wheel to stop them corroding.

[900000]

I suspect this is because the profile of the wheel, which was supplied by mytyres as compatible with the Yeti but which isn't actually a VAG part, isn't exactly the same as that of the genuine VAG wheel.

Ah!!! Well there you go then! I did not know they were not VAG wheels. That makes the difference then. The "dish" part of the Mytyre wheel must be smaller. I would thus recommend you get these caps from a VW Caddy. Their part number is 2K0 601 169. They will definitely fit. Also see pictures here.

[ejstubbs]

I strongly recommend NOT putting anything on the stud threads or under the stud heads.

The torque stated in the manual is associated with the correct shank tension in the studs. Lubricating the threads can mean much more - 2 or 3 times more - tension in the studs for the same torque. Over-tightening is as bad as under-tightening as it is possible to yield and weaken stud without realising it.

Thanks Les, that makes sense. I know about the risks of over-tightening* but hadn't realised that it could be caused by lubricating the threads.

* Like the time when I mis-read the cylinder head stud tightening torque for a friend's engine. I still remember the sickening feeling when we heard that "ping"...

I can see the logic in putting a light coat between the hub and wheel to stop them corroding.

Hmm, that would mean jacking the car up and taking the wheels off again...I think maybe I'll leave that until the spring when I put the alloys back on!

Ah!!! Well there you go then! I did not know they were not VAG wheels.

That would be because I didn't mention it. Another little detail for my insurer to quibble about, no doubt, if I give them the chance.

That makes the difference then. The "dish" part of the Mytyre wheel must be smaller. I would thus recommend you get these caps from a VW Caddy. Their part number is 2K0 601 169. They will definitely fit.

Aha, I thought I'd seen caps like that but couldn't track them down, so thanks for that info.

Hmm, I've just checked eBay and the only ones available are silver and they're asking £23 for the set. Heavens, I might even have to pay full price for them.

I think I might try taking a knife to the T5 ones first. Actually, come to think, I wonder whether they'd fit if I did put the wheel bolt head caps back on? Sounds like a bit of a bodge, though.

[900000]

Actually, come to think, I wonder whether they'd fit if I did put the wheel bolt head caps back on? Sounds like a bit of a bodge, though.

No they come off very easily then. You will lose them over the first speed bump for sure.

[Fred_Bristol]

Hi folk

Has anybody measured where the jacking points are relative to the rear of the front wheel arch and the front of the rear wheel arch?

If so what were the measurements?

I'm going to copy the idea of putting tape or paint on the sill so I don't have to get down and look under the car (getting up again is the problem - legs don't work properly). Not too bad in the garage but not good at the side of the road.

OK I'll answer my own question:

As correctly pointed out (by bohmer) you can feel the raised pointer triangles, but it helps to know roughly where to feel so did a bit of measuring after grovelling around:

On the 1.2 at least

Front jacking point approximately 6 cm (2.5") to the rear of the front wheel arch

Rear jacking point approximately 29 cm (11.5") forward of the front edge of the rear wheel arch

Edited 28 January, 2011 by Fred_Bristol

[bohmer]

Hi folk

Has anybody measured where the jacking points are relative to the rear of the front wheel arch and the front of the rear wheel arch?

If so what were the measurements?

I'm going to copy the idea of putting tape or paint on the sill so I don't have to get down and look under the car (getting up again is the problem - legs don't work properly). Not too bad in the garage but not good at the side of the road.

If you feel along the sill, there are small raised triangular sections towards the end of each sill, which are to indicate the points. I think it is mentioned somewhere in the manual, but can't be bothered to look just now. I have the same problem with getting up and down, only my legs are OK, it's my back I have to be careful with, Father Time has not been kind to me!

[rockhopper]

No they come off very easily then. You will lose them over the first speed bump for sure.

I have Skoda wheels and the same T5 caps. I have NOT taken off the plastic caps. They are a tight fit.

Never even thought about taking them off. Maybe I will try and see if that is even better.

I have lost 2 T5 caps, but they were broken anyway.

Mike

[ejstubbs]

I have Skoda wheels and the same T5 caps. I have NOT taken off the plastic caps. They are a tight fit.

My wheels would seem not to be Skoda ones as the centre caps I bought off eBay (which were described as T5 centre caps) simply do not attach to the wheel.

The idea behind my thought of leaving the plastic caps on the wheel nut heads was that the centre caps would clip on to the plastic wheel nut head caps, as they are larger than the heads of the actual wheel nuts. However, a quick check of a wheel nut head cap against the supposed T5 centre cap shows that this would not work since the clips on the centre cap are significantly larger than the wheel nut head caps - and thus larger than the wheel nut heads themselves.

I begin to suspect that the centre caps I have wouldn't clip on to the wheel nuts even if the wheels were proper Skoda ones. It looks to me like I've got the wrong centre caps. One of the risks of buying off eBay, I suppose. Still, they were less than £10.

Could someone post a photo of the back side of one the T5 centre caps which does actually fit, so I can compare them to the ones I have? Alternatively, the part number of the correct T5 centre cap would be handy.

[900000]

My wheels would seem not to be Skoda ones as the centre caps I bought off eBay (which were described as T5 centre caps) simply do not attach to the wheel.

The idea behind my thought of leaving the plastic caps on the wheel nut heads was that the centre caps would clip on to the plastic wheel nut head caps, as they are larger than the heads of the actual wheel nuts. However, a quick check of a wheel nut head cap against the supposed T5 centre cap shows that this would not work since the clips on the centre cap are significantly larger than the wheel nut head caps - and thus larger than the wheel nut heads themselves.

I begin to suspect that the centre caps I have wouldn't clip on to the wheel nuts even if the wheels were proper Skoda ones. It looks to me like I've got the wrong centre caps. One of the risks of buying off eBay, I suppose. Still, they were less than £10.

Could someone post a photo of the back side of one the T5 centre caps which does actually fit, so I can compare them to the ones I have? Alternatively, the part number of the correct T5 centre cap would be handy.

When I fitted my T5 caps with the platic caps still over the nuts they T5 caps did not engage fully and there was a gap all around. You could prise them off very easily and I suspect any bump would send them flying. Took the plastic little caps off and voila the T5 sits flush with the steel wheel and you need to use the bendy tool from the boot to take the caps off (via one of the little holes in the cap).

You can see the back of the trims in this post:

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/180539-winters-on-steelies-to-trim-or-not-to-trim/page__view__findpost__p__2177440

Alternatively you can try the Caddy caps. See these threads:

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/184839-theyre-here/page__view__findpost__p__2215225

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/180539-winters-on-steelies-to-trim-or-not-to-trim/page__view__findpost__p__2191429

[ejstubbs]

You can see the back of the trims in this post

Superb, many thanks! I'll compare that pic with the caps I have when I get home tonight.

Alternatively you can try the Caddy caps.

The Caddy caps seem to be significantly more difficult to locate than the T5 ones. Mind you, if it turns out that I actually have the wrong "T5" caps then maybe those ones aren't as easy to get hold of as I thought...

On a related note, is there likely to be any problem with running without centre caps?

[900000]

The Caddy caps seem to be significantly more difficult to locate than the T5 ones. Mind you, if it turns out that I actually have the wrong "T5" caps then maybe those ones aren't as easy to get hold of as I thought...

On a related note, is there likely to be any problem with running without centre caps?

The Caddy caps are very, VERY scarce. See lots of T5 drivers upgrade to alloys. Caddies are mostly just vans and not used privately much and thus don't often get alloys retro fitted. It took me months to get them.

Running without caps? I don't think there will be a problem but your hubs will be exposed to the salt and grime and your car will have that I’ve-just-had-four-punctures-and-am-running-on-four-spare-wheels look about it!

[ejstubbs]

Right, I've just compared the wheel caps I have with those in the pics and they're definitely not the same. Mine have a VW logo in the centre which you can see on the back of the cap as well, whereas Niall's are plain. Mine have ten holes around the outer ring whereas Niall's only have nine. Perhaps more importantly, Niall's look a lot flatter than mine, which have a pronounced bevel to the outer ring. That probably explains why the clips on my caps don't manage to engage with the wheel nut heads.

Looks like I shall have to start trawling eBay for some like Niall's, then.

FWIW the part number on the ones I have is 7H0 601 151 B.

Bother! I could have sworn the ones I bought looked identical to some others I'd seen on here. In fact, Mike's are very similar to mine (with a VW logo under where he's fitted the Skoda badge). Never mind, though, it's not too expensive a mistake and it's a lesson learned.

[900000]

Right, I've just compared the wheel caps I have with those in the pics and they're definitely not the same. Mine have a VW logo in the centre which you can see on the back of the cap as well, whereas Niall's are plain. Mine have ten holes around the outer ring whereas Niall's only have nine. Perhaps more importantly, Niall's look a lot flatter than mine, which have a pronounced bevel to the outer ring. That probably explains why the clips on my caps don't manage to engage with the wheel nut heads.

Looks like I shall have to start trawling eBay for some like Niall's, then.

FWIW the part number on the ones I have is 7H0 601 151 B.

Bother! I could have sworn the ones I bought looked identical to some others I'd seen on here. In fact, Mike's are very similar to mine (with a VW logo under where he's fitted the Skoda badge). Never mind, though, it's not too expensive a mistake and it's a lesson learned.

I suggested Niall get those sans logo. They are the same as yours bar the logo surely? My car also has these smooth ones and they fit perfectly. As does Mike's as you say that are the other type with a VW logo.

[ejstubbs]

I suggested Niall get those sans logo. They are the same as yours bar the logo surely?.

As well as the logo, there are only nine holes in the outer ring on Niall's as against ten on mine. More significantly, I think, Niall's don't seem to have the pronounced bevel on the outer ring that mine do (although it's difficult to be sure just on the basis of those pictures).

Another thing occurs to me. How are these things supposed to attach to the wheel? I thought that the five part-circle clips on the inner face were supposed to fit snugly over the heads of the wheel nuts. But on mine, the part-circle clips are much bigger than the wheel head bolts, so there's no way they'd stay attached that way even if the wheel geometry did actually manage to allow them to engage. I think I'm even more confused than ever...

[900000]

As well as the logo, there are only nine holes in the outer ring on Niall's as against ten on mine. More significantly, I think, Niall's don't seem to have the pronounced bevel on the outer ring that mine do (although it's difficult to be sure just on the basis of those pictures).

Another thing occurs to me. How are these things supposed to attach to the wheel? I thought that the five part-circle clips on the inner face were supposed to fit snugly over the heads of the wheel nuts. But on mine, the part-circle clips are much bigger than the wheel head bolts, so there's no way they'd stay attached that way even if the wheel geometry did actually manage to allow them to engage. I think I'm even more confused than ever...

Maybe you got ones for a VW truck!

Those part circle clips indeed just snugly fits over the standard Yeti Alloy bolts. Nothing more to it than that.