How To: VRS Pick up pipe(suction pipe) replacement

[Bowders1]

Hi Folks, well i got round to replacing my pick up pipe on the weekend.
I was not expecting mine to be that bad as i have changed my oil every 4000 miles or less with good quality oil.
Yet the filter section was still slightly blocked and had some very small metal filings in there too.



verses my new one



both together



So it goes to show the pipe can still get crud in it with careful maintainence.


I took a few pics of the job so here goes if it helps.

Car up on ramps



Remove plastic engine undertray



Drain Oil and remove filter

Start removing sump bolts (can use a 8mm allen socket or a 10mm socket)



You will need a long 8mm allen socket or key with a ball end to get into the bolts next to gearbox.



Remove the 3 bolts from lower gearbox housing to sump (think 17mm)



Unplug the Oil level / sender plug.



Remove the flexible oil pipe to turbo ( 2 x 8mm allen bolts)



After all bolts removed tap sump with a rubber mallet to break seal.

Sump removed showing old pick up pipe (to remove pipe 2 x 8mm allen bolts)
retain rubber washer or replace with a new one



Suction pipe replaced and sump area cleaned ready for refitting.



Sump cleaned up



Sump sealed and ready to refit. torque to 11 lbf ft



results so far are very good. The engine feels smoother and slightly quieter top end. This could all be all in my mind, or the fact i replaced oil for new (5w 30 castrol edge)but end result i am happy and i think worth doing

hope this helps folks.

[Steevie Wonder]

:thumbup:

Good stuff mate!!!!

[BigAceSteve]

I was getting a whinning sound on a cold startup and fault code 16396. I'd already mended my secondary air pump so I knew the noise wasn't coming from that.

At the time I got the fault code the oil light came on also, I checked the oil and it was fine; this happened about 2 weeks ago. I also cleared the fault code as the car was running fine apart from the whinning sound on cold starts. I didn't get another warning light until yesterday when the oil light came on. The light kept coming on even though the oil level was spot on.

I spotted this post and pondered if the whine was coming from the oil pump because of a partially blocked pick up pipe? Was the oil warming up and that was why the whinning stopped as the oil was able to flow?

I'm happy to say that I've followed these instructions apart from I cleaned my original pick up pipe with petrol. The result was no more whinning sound, no more oil light and the car is now really rapid. Some horses have been returned! I used fully synthetic 5w40 from Halfords and a new oil filter of course (perhaps filter was the issue?)

Thanks for this post Bowders1, it was very useful and has saved me a lot of pennies, I owe you a pint

[Bowders1]

I was getting a whinning sound on a cold startup and fault code 16396. I'd already mended my secondary air pump so I knew the noise wasn't coming from that.

At the time I got the fault code the oil light came on also, I checked the oil and it was fine; this happened about 2 weeks ago. I also cleared the fault code as the car was running fine apart from the whinning sound on cold starts. I didn't get another warning light until yesterday when the oil light came on. The light kept coming on even though the oil level was spot on.

I spotted this post and pondered if the whine was coming from the oil pump because of a partially blocked pick up pipe? Was the oil warming up and that was why the whinning stopped as the oil was able to flow?

I'm happy to say that I've followed these instructions apart from I cleaned my original pick up pipe with petrol. The result was no more whinning sound, no more oil light and the car is now really rapid. Some horses have been returned! I used fully synthetic 5w40 from Halfords and a new oil filter of course (perhaps filter was the issue?)

Thanks for this post Bowders1, it was very useful and has saved me a lot of pennies, I owe you a pint

Cheers and thanks for reply. Mines a pint of strongbow....

[Shroud]

Just had a quick look at mine to ensure i had the the right tools and it looks like all my sump bolts are 5mm allen, and that the ones by the gearbox need a really long extension. My 80mm long keys do not seem long enough for a few of them.

Can anyone confirm and advise the cheapest tool to get the embedded bolts near the gearbox. Presumably just an even longer allen key?

[Raf_]

Just had a quick look at mine to ensure i had the the right tools and it looks like all my sump bolts are 5mm allen, and that the ones by the gearbox need a really long extension. My 80mm long keys do not seem long enough for a few of them.

Can anyone confirm and advise the cheapest tool to get the embedded bolts near the gearbox. Presumably just an even longer allen key?

I got a set of allen keys with a clip on handle from Aldi a few months back they are quite long, dunno if they are long enough yet though. Some screw driver bit sets come with Allen key bits (dunno if any are 5mm), i've got a small draper socket set with a socket for bits and 3 different length extension bars so i have the option of that if it doesn't lol

[Shroud]

Thanks, after a bit more research a couple of the bolts are not directly accessible with a straight socket or allen key, and so you do need an allen key/socket with a ball end or something that allows to to get to a bolt at an angle. I've ordered a tee handle allen key wrench with ball end for a fiver just for this job, which is an extra cost i wasn't expecting, but is still worth it if it prevents major engine damage further down the line. :yes:

[Chunk11]

I have just finished doing mine today and this is the allen socket I used to get at the bolts near the gearbox

My link

[Shroud]

I guess it was pretty straight forward with that?

I bought this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hexagon-Allen-Key-Wrench-Tee-Handle-5mm-Ball-Ended-/160602368701?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2564a5aabd

[Chunk11]

Yeah was really easy with the long 5mm hex socket. Reached the bolts no problem and they went back in easily

[billy2981]

Thanks to Mark for this guide,

I did mine at the weekend and TBH didnt need doing. its done 101k on the same pickup pipe and only had oil change when the service indicated. Only had longlife oil in bar once on the 3rd service done by Skoda when the only did a 10k service so used Castrol Mag 10w40. I changed that when I looked at the service light for 0w30 again and had skoda reset the light back to longlife service.

There was hardly any blocked parts other than 2 bits of something in 2 of the holes.

I did otice tho that the sump had a lot of burned on oil ie the sump was very brown unlike Marks pic which seems pritty nice. Now the car is 100k+ I am going to go from servicing it every 18-20k(when ever the service ind comes up) to every 15-17k with Quantum III

Ive noticed the engine feels nicer too but again she was due a service soon anyway.

Oh and I also noticed that even when you drain the oil there is still quite a lot of oil that you cant get out without removing the sump.

billy

[tuplavee]

PICS!!! :wonder:

[yamz89]

Hi guys,

Decided to go ahead to take the sump off, change the oil pickup pipe and to clean the sump. I did this because of the massive awareness that this thread brought to me - http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/187391-all-octy-1-owners-please-read-this/

All in all, it was a simple job but took all day as I wanted to leave the oil to drip from the engine. As these sumps use just sealant and not a gasket, any tiny drip of oil will effect the way that the sealant sets and will mess up the bead, resulting in having to go over the messy process again. I used a 3-5mm bead all the way round in the end and provided a nice even seal all the way round without any excess. Too much sealant will cause excess to be drawn into the freshly installed pickup pipe, resulting in potential oil starvation and damage to your engine.

Even though my 05' vRS (which I bought last week) has only got 49,000 miles, it has got bits missing out of the service history and shows big mileage in-between services (long-life methods where used). I've read that long life oil's and servicing methods are partly to blame for the oil sludge build-up that these engines supposedly suffer from, so for peace of mind and too see how the engine has fared over 6 years of long-life serving I went ahead with it.

Here are the pics of when I just took the sump off

As you can see, no blockage. The oil was still running out at this point

The sump was clean, no sludge.

After all those long life intervals my engine is fine, pickup and sump was clean, though I will be running mine on 5w30 Fully Synthetic and regular oil changes every 6,000 miles from now on.

Arguably, all that effort was for nothing really, but at least I know my engine and turbo are now safe from premature failure, and for 14 quids worth of parts it could potentially save you hundreds. If you own a vRS and you don't know what condition your pick up pipe looks like then I'd recommend you get it done along with your next service for peace of mind.

The parts you need from Skoda...

Oil Pickup Pipe - S06A115251 £8

Oil Pickup Pipe O-Ring - N0282222 £1

And the good quality alloy sealant that I used from Halfords...

Loctite 5910 Premium Silicone Black Gasket Maker/Sealant - Cat code: 599720-0 - £5

Hope this helps, cheers for reading

Marc

[Liverpool-Lad]

Interesting write up - thanks for posting.

[Bowders1]

+1

well posted and another good contribution to that thread.

[vRStroy]

Hi Marc,

Better safe than sorry,I suppose?

Your sump looks very clean,no sludge and definitely looks well maintained(and not thrashed)even though there was a gap in the service history...

What's next? :wonder:

[mbames]

mmmm, I am considering doing mine on the next oil change (I am running LL in my TDI). There have not been many reports from diesel owners on changing their oil pickup, so it might be interesting.....

Edited 24 August, 2011 by mbames

[yamz89]

Thanks for the kind words guys!

vRSTroy - Nothing needs doing now, just drive the thing! Only owned it just over a week and I've had the cambelt, tensioner, water-pump, oil pickup pipe, turbo intake pipe, panel filter, oil change, oil filter and spark plugs done! Nevermind a full interior valet, two new tyres and a Briskoda sticker!

Going to uprate the dog bone mount this weekend but that's it really, though I'm saving up for a full turbo back system, front mount intercooler and a stage 2 map! Will be a while before I get any of those done!

mbames - You could, but I hear PD's don't really suffer from this issue? But again, its peace of mind isn't it!

Thanks again!

Marc

[Silver Bullet]

Nice pics and good write up .

Mine is also a 05' with same mileage. It sounds a good thing to do if there are gaps in the service history or even for just piece of mind.

I do a oil / filter change every 6k with fully synthetic oil. I have considered fitting an oil pressure gauge, at least you would have

some indication of a pressure drop before the dreaded warning light came on.

[DBP]

I didn't get a new Oring when I got mine. You've got me worried I have done it wrong now lol.

[Bowders1]

Going to uprate the dog bone mount this weekend but that's it really, though I'm saving up for a full turbo back system, front mount intercooler and a stage 2 map! Will be a while before I get any of those done!

Love the way you say "but that's it" regarding mods, then say saving up for exhaust,FMIC and a map

You, as like most of us briskodian's have been infected by the bug called "continuous improvements". It is highly contagious and very hard to get rid of completely. And you can be left with scar's mostly found in the wallet area....

I didn't get a new Oring when I got mine. You've got me worried I have done it wrong now lol.

Don't panic not really necessary to change that.

[mbames]

mbames - You could, but I hear PD's don't really suffer from this issue? But again, its peace of mind isn't it!

I am a non-PD engine.

Assuming the pickup part is the same, and the sump is easy enough to get off (I'll check when doing the cambelt this weekend) then it is a pretty cheap thing to check. My old girl is only on 187k, so I guess she might not need it doing yet, unlike some of the 1.8Ts which seem to need it around the 50k mark :p

[rwbaldwin]

I am a non-PD engine.

Assuming the pickup part is the same, and the sump is easy enough to get off (I'll check when doing the cambelt this weekend) then it is a pretty cheap thing to check. My old girl is only on 187k, so I guess she might not need it doing yet, unlike some of the 1.8Ts which seem to need it around the 50k mark :p

Same part as the VRS.

Easy to get off provided you have a 1/4" wobble bar and a short 10mm socket to match.

Clean the sump mating surface with a gasket scraper and a rotary nylon brush. Clean out the sump finishing off with IPA on a lint free cloth.

Create a continuous 3mm bead of sealant - down to 2mm is OK but no more than 3mm. Make sure the bead goes inside of the bolt holes. You need to work quickly before the surface of the bead begins to cure. With the VAG sealant that can be less than 5 minutes, from when you start the bead, until the sump is in place with just a couple of bolts to hold it up.

One tip is to check the clearance of the sump from the lower belt cover before doing the bead. I've seen a number of TDIs, where it is easy to get down but is more difficult to get back up. A steel rule usually does the trick.

[yamz89]

I didn't get a new Oring when I got mine. You've got me worried I have done it wrong now lol.

To be honest fella when I took my old one off it was in good condition. I only bought it so that I wasn't stuck without if mine was in bits.

I am a non-PD engine.

Assuming the pickup part is the same, and the sump is easy enough to get off (I'll check when doing the cambelt this weekend) then it is a pretty cheap thing to check. My old girl is only on 187k, so I guess she might not need it doing yet, unlike some of the 1.8Ts which seem to need it around the 50k mark :p

Mine didn't need doing at all, I only did it due to the stories. Oil sludge and blocked strainers can happen with any engine if not properly looked after. I.e. Wrongs oils, lack of servicing over the years etc.

Clean the sump mating surface with a gasket scraper and a rotary nylon brush. Clean out the sump finishing off with IPA on a lint free cloth.

With the VAG sealant that can be less than 5 minutes, from when you start the bead, until the sump is in place with just a couple of bolts to hold it up.

I just cleaned up both surfaces with a sharp razor blade and a cloth with light brake fluid and it all came straight off and was like new. Also the Loctite sealant that I used you have 15 minutes to get the sump on, which helps alot if your struggling on the floor and your car is on a trolley jack!

Thanks again for the posts fellas!

Marc

[tuplavee]

I did that also yesterday. At 145 000km. There was some blockage, but nothing to worry about. Maybe 250t km would be better time to do it if you have made your oilchanges regulary..

I used Permatex Ultra Black to seal it, maybe about 3mm bead. Today when it's dryed for 24h, well se if it was good

Read about those transmission side allen bolts falling down somewhere, so when screwing them out/in, i used some silicone in the allen key to prevent them falling.

Edited 25 August, 2011 by tuplavee