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NGK BKR6EIX - Anybody Tried Them?


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Excellent info from NGK on Heat Range of plugs.

 

 

Heat Range

The term Heat Range refers to the speed with which a plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or race car, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C.  Within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits that cause fouling.

 

 

 

Heat_Dissipation.jpg

The spark plug design determines its ability to remove heat from the combustion chamber. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose.  In addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges.

 

   - When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, keeping the firing tip cooler.

 

   - A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.

 

 

An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as adding a turbo or supercharger, increasing compression, timing changes, use of alternate fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature, necessitating a colder plug. 

 

A good rule of thumb: use one heat range colder for every 75–100hp added.

 

In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.

 

 

The heat range numbering system used by spark plug manufacturers is not universal. 

 

For example, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK nor the same in Autolite.

 

Heat_Range_Comparison.jpg

 

 

Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other - for Champion, Autolite and Bosch, the higher the number, the hotter the plug. For NGK, Denso and Pulstar, the higher the number, the colder the plug.

 

It is not recommended that you make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification, such as injection, carburetion or timing changes.  Performing too many modifications or tune-ups at once will lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions if any issues occur (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single pre-calibrated upgrade kit).

 

When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. Running too cold a plug can only cause it to foul out, whereas running too hot a plug can cause severe engine damage.

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First of all, make sure you know where you're buying these from to make sure they are the real deal. Some other users have report possible fake plugs out there. Got mine from Camskill for around a £5 more I think.

 

I switched to these just before Xmas and so far no problems.

 

The engine oil temperature seems to be several degrees lower than before so they seem to be doing the job, the downside takes slightly longer for the engine to warm up to operation temp of around 80 to 90 degrees.

 

Reports that they don't last very long so keep an eye for misfires after 5,000 - 7,000 miles.

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If there are Mis-fires they usually between 2,400 & 3,500 / 4.000 RPM under load,

 

That is where the greatest chance is Supercharger & Turbo Charger at full pressure, lots of heat and a cylinder misfiring,

a Spark Plug failing, and an Exhaust Control Light or a EPC of both showing,

and if you are lucky the System Inhibiting the Turbo & putting it into Limp Mode.

 

PS 

Good Quality Oil will also have the Oil Temperature running cooler in normal running,

and coming down sooner.

Right now at ambient temps of around Freezing, i am not even seeing 90*oC indicated Oil Temps,.

& that is at Motorway Speeds after 30 minutes or more of running,

and over 100 miles & more where the Indicated Temp stays below 92*oC, 

88*oC or so at 60-70 mph.

Edited by goneoffSKi
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tatyjay, did you switch to 7's or to 6's?

I am running 7's now and see no problems at all. Engine runs smooth, no misfires, accelerates well, gets its "VVT" moment at 5,5k - happy days.

I was wondering if one number hotter plugs (see explanation from NGK above) would improve fuel efficiency without causing issues of tip overheating and misfires. Hence me asking if anybody tried 6's

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tatyjay, did you switch to 7's or to 6's?

I am running 7's now and see no problems at all. Engine runs smooth, no misfires, accelerates well, gets its "VVT" moment at 5,5k - happy days.

I was wondering if one number hotter plugs (see explanation from NGK above) would improve fuel efficiency without causing issues of tip overheating and misfires. Hence me asking if anybody tried 6's

 

Ah sorry I misread it and got confused.

 

You are correct I am using 7's not 6's apologies, you know better than me what I've got on my car :x .

 

I do think the 7's give less MPG than the standard plugs however, as you said better to run cooler plugs just in case.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=LbR75wq9nmM#t=36

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Some more info on the OEM plugs. Done some digging.

VAG OEM Part Numbers:

Old plugs 03C905601A -NGK PZFR6R8EG (0.8mm gap) (when searching for them drop the last 3 numbers i.e. PZFR6R). This plug is now replaced by the following

New Plugs:

03C905601B - NGK SIZFR6B8EG (0.7mm gap)

As for Denso my searches indicated the VK20 one.

Disclaimer: All the above info cannot be assumed to be correct and poster does not take any responsibilty of any kind in relation to the above.

^

Couldn't resist:)

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Is that for OEM NGK Plugs while they are fitting them, or at the parts desk, ?

because that is well above RRP

and rather expensive, and they should be asked to double check the price.

Parts desk totally ripped off!

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I got charged under £100 to get my plugs replaced by the dealer.

 

Skoda have changed the plug, but apparently this was a while ago. My CAVE engine 11 plate car had the old plugs and when replaced, were fitted with these newer updated ones.

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I believe it was £89 IIRC.

I could have done it myself, but I didn't fancy buying a plug removal tool, gap checker, oh and completely ballsing it up!

Add a torque wrench and plug socket. Ended up snapping the the other spark plug tool I had.

But worth doing and knowing how to do it so you can check them.

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