Heya all, I guess it's the cold weather but my rear washer jet is no longer working. I've had the rear trim panel off as that was the problem before but this is not the case. there is a pool of water beneth the passenger side door (under the car) so i guess a tube has come loose? How easy is this to fix? Should I just take it to a garage or tackle the problem when i get it up on the ramps?

Cheers Folks,

Duggie.

Ramp up the car first and have a quick look - if you can see its an loose connector -could be a simple case of reconnecting the pipe back - if it appears not to a loose connector get some one to operate the rear jet washer, and watch where the water comes from - could be a split or broken pipe - if your car is under warranty though I would take to the garage in the first instance.

mines just done this too for the 2nd time! 1st time was before its last service and this time its just done it before its belt service Grr will just get skoda to do it again as its come off underneath the car and im just too lazy :P! isnt there anything else that can be done to prevent this?

Just to let you know guys, I fixed mine today in the fog... The offending pipe had come loose just behind and below the air filter on my 1.4. Just before it goes into the bulkhead. A simple matter of clicking it back into place... though a little difficult with a strut brace fitted!

Thanks folks!

Hi Duggie

I'd be very interested to know HOW you got the tailgate lining off. My Fabia hatchback is leaking from the hose/nozzle connection (at least, that's my guess) or there's a split pipe in there. I just can't suss out how to get at it.

AlPen

Just give the trim a good pull usually best to start from the latch area its a bit tuff but will come off! Then is the hardest bit is getting it back on! anyone got any tricks to getting the trim back on wid ease wud be greatfull?

I've also had issues with the rear washer, happened on Thursday morning. The jet stopped working and then leaked into the boot. Pulled the boot lining out with a bit of force in the works car park at lunch time and found the hose was a little off. Re-connected it but still nothing... thought that it had maybe disconnected in the engine bay but it did seem to fix itself on Thursday night.

Did have it booked into the Garage just incase but once it started working, didn't bother.

A bit of a mystery, considered a frozen bit of water in the pipe but didn't think it was cold enough.

One thing.. the woman at the Dealer did give me a lecture on Skoda approved screen wash.... is it really worth it and could using Halfords own caused the problem?

Hi

Mine has also stopped working and the water appears on the floor near the front wheel is this an easy fix if i jack the passanger side of the car up or do i have to strip half the car out.I only have till March the 19th till its out of warranty if its a big job.

Mike:confused:

Mine is doing the same:(

I can hear water coming out near the front passenger side area, is it possible to fix from the engine bay or is it panel off underneath?:confused::confused:

Any advice would be welcome before I start dismantling:thumbdwn:

For some reason I have had the rear washer gremlin too!!!!

Mine has come away from the connector behind the air filter, with skin ripped from my arm a lot of cursing I tried the rear washer and it popped straight off again:mad:

Will have to find someone with strong small hands lol.

The pipe will have disconnected in one of four places. You don't need a ramp for any of them. In approximate order of likelihood:

1) Behind the trim running along the NSR seat back. Fold the seat forward and pull the plastic trim away (two round clips will come off). Find the black hose running up from the floor into the boot, and locate the connector. Push the two sections together, and fasten with a cable-tie if required (at your own risk: the connector is a 'weak link' to protect against the hose itself bursting)

2) Behind the brake lines running to and from the ABS unit, on the engine bay bulkhead, approximately behind the top/right corner of the engine. There will be a stub hose coming out of the bulkhead, and the other section of hose will most likely be hanging loose. You will find it easier to unscrew the top of the air filter box and move it out of the way. Then reach in and connect the two sections of pipe. It's possible with one hand, although if you have small hands and arms, it will be easier to use both. Use a cable-tie if you wish, but the above warning applies. Make sure the engine's cold if you have to do this, as you'll be fiddling about next to some potentially very hot parts!

3) At the connector to the rear washer pump. The trim inside the boot lid pulls away (you may need to prop it open), and you can then access the pump. Re-fitting the trim can be tricky if you bend the clips, and don't forget the feed the pull handle through before you start putting it all back together! Again, you can cable-tie if you want, but it's at your own risk.

4) At the connector to the reservoir pump. Remove the Torx scews around the front edge of the NSF wheel arch, pull it back and use a bit of wood or plastic to wedge it open. You can then access the pump, reconnect the hose (and cable-tie at your own risk!)

As a bit of an aside, I see that most of the posters in this thread are pretty new, in which case could I please suggest you use the 'Search' button in future for queries like this - it's there for a reason...! In fact, one of our members has even posted a link to the official Skoda Technical Bulletin on the issue!

Anyway, lecture over - hope you all get your washers fixed!

Top man:)

I will crack on with that this evening

LMFAO....mine did this yesterday. Mine had come apart at the joint near the airbox on the bulkhead in the engine bay. Bit fiddly but the 2 parts clicked back together ok.

You could hear it spraying the steering rack every time you pressed the button.

Looks like i'll have to sort out the wifey's furby as the rear wash has stopped on that too!!

ACSC:(

funny seeing this post had a similar problem on sunday, front and back washer had stoped working had to take the wheel off and get the arch liner off just to put to pipes back onto the pump! and then one in the engine bay so much hassle for such a little thing

Just done ours, longer to get the wheel off than connect everything up again, all working fine now so fingers crossed I dont have ot do it again soon

Cheers

ACSC:)

The pipe will have disconnected in one of four places. You don't need a ramp for any of them. In approximate order of likelihood:

1) Behind the trim running along the NSR seat back. Fold the seat forward and pull the plastic trim away (two round clips will come off). Find the black hose running up from the floor into the boot, and locate the connector. Push the two sections together, and fasten with a cable-tie if required (at your own risk: the connector is a 'weak link' to protect against the hose itself bursting)

2) Behind the brake lines running to and from the ABS unit, on the engine bay bulkhead, approximately behind the top/right corner of the engine. There will be a stub hose coming out of the bulkhead, and the other section of hose will most likely be hanging loose. You will find it easier to unscrew the top of the air filter box and move it our of the way. Then reach in and connect the two sections of pipe. It's possible with one hand, although if you have small hands and arms, it will be easier to use both. Use a cable-tie if you wish, but the above warning applies. Make sure the engine's cold if you have to do this, as you'll be fiddling about next to some potentially very hot parts!

3) At the connector to the rear washer pump. The trim inside the boot lid pulls away (you may need to prop it open), and you can then access the pump. Re-fitting the trim can be tricky if you bend the clips, and don't forget the feed the pull handle through before you start putting it all back together! Again, you can cable-tie if you want, but it's at your own risk.

4) At the connector to the reservoir pump. Remove the Torx scews around the front edge of the NSF wheel arch, pull it back and use a bit of wood or plastic to wedge it open. You can then access the pump, reconnect the hose (and cable-tie at your own risk!)

As a bit of an aside, I see that most of the posters in this thread are pretty new, in which case could I please suggest you use the 'Search' button in future for queries like this - it's there for a reason...! In fact, one of our members has even posted a link to the official Skoda Technical Bulletin on the issue!

Anyway, lecture over - hope you all get your washers fixed!

Thanks for the help - Mine was the bulkhead hose. sorted it in minutes

The pipe will have disconnected in one of four places. You don't need a ramp for any of them. In approximate order of likelihood:

1) Behind the trim running along the NSR seat back. Fold the seat forward and pull the plastic trim away (two round clips will come off). Find the black hose running up from the floor into the boot, and locate the connector. Push the two sections together, and fasten with a cable-tie if required (at your own risk: the connector is a 'weak link' to protect against the hose itself bursting)

2) Behind the brake lines running to and from the ABS unit, on the engine bay bulkhead, approximately behind the top/right corner of the engine. There will be a stub hose coming out of the bulkhead, and the other section of hose will most likely be hanging loose. You will find it easier to unscrew the top of the air filter box and move it out of the way. Then reach in and connect the two sections of pipe. It's possible with one hand, although if you have small hands and arms, it will be easier to use both. Use a cable-tie if you wish, but the above warning applies. Make sure the engine's cold if you have to do this, as you'll be fiddling about next to some potentially very hot parts!

3) At the connector to the rear washer pump. The trim inside the boot lid pulls away (you may need to prop it open), and you can then access the pump. Re-fitting the trim can be tricky if you bend the clips, and don't forget the feed the pull handle through before you start putting it all back together! Again, you can cable-tie if you want, but it's at your own risk.

4) At the connector to the reservoir pump. Remove the Torx scews around the front edge of the NSF wheel arch, pull it back and use a bit of wood or plastic to wedge it open. You can then access the pump, reconnect the hose (and cable-tie at your own risk!)

As a bit of an aside, I see that most of the posters in this thread are pretty new, in which case could I please suggest you use the 'Search' button in future for queries like this - it's there for a reason...! In fact, one of our members has even posted a link to the official Skoda Technical Bulletin on the issue!

Anyway, lecture over - hope you all get your washers fixed!

Thanks very much, my rear washer wasn't working, but it's all fixed now thanks to this thread. It was in position 1)

Should sticky this one. Had to search through a few post before I got to this ine.

2) Behind the brake lines running to and from the ABS unit, on the engine bay bulkhead, approximately behind the top/right corner of the engine. There will be a stub hose coming out of the bulkhead, and the other section of hose will most likely be hanging loose. You will find it easier to unscrew the top of the air filter box and move it out of the way. Then reach in and connect the two sections of pipe. It's possible with one hand, although if you have small hands and arms, it will be easier to use both. Use a cable-tie if you wish, but the above warning applies. Make sure the engine's cold if you have to do this, as you'll be fiddling about next to some potentially very hot parts!

After investigating today, mine seems to have popped off in this location. I cant for the life of me figure out how to get to the pipe though! I can see water spraying out of somewhere on the rhs of the engine bay, but cant access it. Any tips?

Hello,

Front washer hose has a connection just before it disappears into cabin, mine too started leaking last winter.

What I did could be classed as a botched job or improvisation??

I cut off both fittings to each end of pipes, slipped a short length of rubber hose over each end, and secured with plastic ties.

The washer pipes are thick and rigid, so it will take a good sharp pair of snips to cut off the connections.

I ensured that my new connection's remained in engine bay area, with foresight that my job had no guarantee.

Up until today no water has leaked, so my botched/improvisation is holding water. LOL.

You might want to replace fittings to keep it all original, you will find it is not straight-forward.The pipe end connections will fight you, to be removed, so you still may have to cut ends off??

Pipes are thick plastic and not pliable and, probably need to be dipped into hot water to enable you to push new end connection's into pipe ends?

As to the rear washer, tailgate trim to be removed, push pipe that become displaced back onto place.Test for leakeage and replace trim.

Trim removal is a fight, replacing a battle, both can be accomplished by any able-bodied person.

Good luck, whatever you do. Ian. 28/08/2009 :thumbup:

Edited 28 August, 200916 yr by giandougl

Thank you "ap0gee" for your detailed analysis of the problem - a few comments if I may:

1) Behind the trim running along the NSR seat back. Fold the seat forward and pull the plastic trim away (two round clips will come off). Find the black hose running up from the floor into the boot, and locate the connector. Push the two sections together, and fasten with a cable-tie if required (at your own risk: the connector is a 'weak link' to protect against the hose itself bursting)

I looked at this one first not just because it was top of the list but also because if this was the point of disconnection I didn't want lots of washer fluid in the car. To clarify, the trim referred to is the plastic trim immediately inside the door aperture running from the end of the parcel shelf support moulding down to the middle of the bottom of the door opening. It's easier to access if you completely remove the seat back rather than just folding it - this is easily done by using a screwdriver to release the outer pivot, then pulling outwards and forwards to release the other pivot. I'd done this previously to get a large load in so I knew how easy it was - the other (larger) side can also be removed (you don't need to for this exercise - only if you want a larger load area) but it's more involved owing to the seat belt fixing (from memory - whatever, a bolt needs undoing). The upper of the "two round clips" needs to be screwed off - there's a slot to use a screwdriver in - the bottom one is just a push fit and needs to be levered off. The plastic can then be carefully pulled off. I found the connector not far down from the top of the area revealed - but it was fine...

2) Behind the brake lines running to and from the ABS unit, on the engine bay bulkhead, approximately behind the top/right corner of the engine. There will be a stub hose coming out of the bulkhead, and the other section of hose will most likely be hanging loose. You will find it easier to unscrew the top of the air filter box and move it out of the way. Then reach in and connect the two sections of pipe. It's possible with one hand, although if you have small hands and arms, it will be easier to use both. Use a cable-tie if you wish, but the above warning applies. Make sure the engine's cold if you have to do this, as you'll be fiddling about next to some potentially very hot parts!

Having established the break was unlikely to be in the car I moved on to step 2. Whilst I could see that the area behind the engine was the source of the problem I couldn't find where the pipes were. I dropped the drivers window then clipped a bungee round the lever, fed it around to the front, leaned into the car with a torch and pulled the bungee. The pipe was then obvious - and very inaccessible. Following the instructions (I do sometimes) I undid the two screws holding the air filter cover on and took that off. Even with that removed it was difficult - I found that with the right hand going down the bulkhead from the top and the left hand going down the back of the engine and across I could just about clip the two pipes together again. Mended!

Then it was just a matter of putting everything back together. I didn't risk putting cable ties on - in any case it would have been difficult in the engine compartment and I'd prefer it to go again there in the future rather than in the car...

Thanks again!

Thank you "ap0gee" for your detailed analysis of the problem - a few comments if I may...

No problem. Have you posted this in the thread as well? It may be of some help to others in the future!

The pipe will have disconnected in one of four places. You don't need a ramp for any of them. In approximate order of likelihood:

1) Behind the trim running along the NSR seat back. Fold the seat forward and pull the plastic trim away (two round clips will come off). Find the black hose running up from the floor into the boot, and locate the connector. Push the two sections together, and fasten with a cable-tie if required (at your own risk: the connector is a 'weak link' to protect against the hose itself bursting)

2) Behind the brake lines running to and from the ABS unit, on the engine bay bulkhead, approximately behind the top/right corner of the engine. There will be a stub hose coming out of the bulkhead, and the other section of hose will most likely be hanging loose. You will find it easier to unscrew the top of the air filter box and move it out of the way. Then reach in and connect the two sections of pipe. It's possible with one hand, although if you have small hands and arms, it will be easier to use both. Use a cable-tie if you wish, but the above warning applies. Make sure the engine's cold if you have to do this, as you'll be fiddling about next to some potentially very hot parts!

3) At the connector to the rear washer pump. The trim inside the boot lid pulls away (you may need to prop it open), and you can then access the pump. Re-fitting the trim can be tricky if you bend the clips, and don't forget the feed the pull handle through before you start putting it all back together! Again, you can cable-tie if you want, but it's at your own risk.

4) At the connector to the reservoir pump. Remove the Torx scews around the front edge of the NSF wheel arch, pull it back and use a bit of wood or plastic to wedge it open. You can then access the pump, reconnect the hose (and cable-tie at your own risk!)

As a bit of an aside, I see that most of the posters in this thread are pretty new, in which case could I please suggest you use the 'Search' button in future for queries like this - it's there for a reason...! In fact, one of our members has even posted a link to the official Skoda Technical Bulletin on the issue!

Anyway, lecture over - hope you all get your washers fixed!

Thanks for this post - had had problems with rear washer not working and problem now solved! :-D

3) At the connector to the rear washer pump. The trim inside the boot lid pulls away (you may need to prop it open), and you can then access the pump. Re-fitting the trim can be tricky if you bend the clips, and don't forget the feed the pull handle through before you start putting it all back together! Again, you can cable-tie if you want, but it's at your own risk.

Anyway, lecture over - hope you all get your washers fixed!

There is only one pump in the system and that is at the reservoir. I think you mean the rear wiper motor/gearbox. The pipe goes through wiper shaft of the wiper.

If the washer nozzle moves with the wiper then there is a repair kit that solves it, it is cheaper than a new motor/gearbox, see this post. Huzzah! My rear wiper jet no longer rotates with the arm - Briskoda

Thank you Ap0gee and DRJ for your posts, it has helped me fix my rear wiper on many occasions.

The rear washer jet blows off al the time in freezing conditions at a join between the airbox and turbo just before it goes through the bulkhead. It's designed to blow off there and just clicks back in.