Does anyone know the order of taking things apart to pull it out?

Ist here a handy switched live nearby, or do i need to run a cable to the fuse box?

You can get a switched live from the cig lighter I believe, and to remove the storage you can slip a ruler in below the front to prize the two clips out, here is a crude diagram the X is where the clips are on the bottom front of the storage box, up and under!:

/----------\

/ X____X \

Edited 20 March, 201016 yr by daz_pd

You can get a switched live from the cig lighter I believe, and to remove the storage you can slip a ruler in below the front to prize the two clips out, here is a crude diagram the X is where the clips are on the bottom front of the storage box, up and under!:

/----------\

/ X____X \

lovely. ta.

I guess if I'm going to get a switched live from the cig lighter, I'll need to remove some other bits n bobs to get the wire down there. ebay for trim removal tool?

Cig lighter is perm live not switched. The only proper place for a switched live on the octy2 is the fusebox because all the cars equipment is controlled by canbus signalling.

Cig lighter is perm live not switched. The only proper place for a switched live on the octy2 is the fusebox because all the cars equipment is controlled by canbus signalling.

right. I'll do that then. Actually it might be easier to get a wire to the fuse box from the top box anyway. I might be able to get away with threading my cable puller through somehow . I'm sure I can work it out, but easier to ask - which number on the fuse box will give me a switched live?

Try here:- Briskoda post

or here Another Briskoda post

Edited 20 March, 201016 yr by Welsh_kai_boy

This is a switched live connection on mine... with the red wire coming out:

There are others too - a circuit tester or multimeter will find them for you. Either that, or look at the manual for fuse assignments, and you should be able to figure out which rails are permanent live and which are switched based on what else is connected to that rail.

Good luck

This is a switched live connection on mine... with the red wire coming out:

There are others too - a circuit tester or multimeter will find them for you. Either that, or look at the manual for fuse assignments, and you should be able to figure out which rails are permanent live and which are switched based on what else is connected to that rail.

Good luck

bump

Can you tell me how you attached the positive to the fusebox? Doesn't look like a spur fuse so I'm wondering how you secured this. I need to do the very same thing but can't quite figure out the best way to connect it up (spur, in line fuse etc).

bump

Can you tell me how you attached the positive to the fusebox? Doesn't look like a spur fuse so I'm wondering how you secured this. I need to do the very same thing but can't quite figure out the best way to connect it up (spur, in line fuse etc).

Not 100% but I'd say thats just a blade pushed in to the top connection of the fuse "space" next to the blue 15a fuse, with a trailing inline fuse holder

Not 100% but I'd say thats just a blade pushed in to the top connection of the fuse "space" next to the blue 15a fuse, with a trailing inline fuse holder

Thats right. It'll work but I'd not be 100% happy with that. I bought a 'repair wire' from the dealer, basically a wire with the correct terminal crimped on. This fits into the back of the fusebox and lets you fit a fuse into the proper slot in the fusebox. When you look into the fusebox now you dont see any extra wires anywhere. The wire you then have coming from the rear of the box is either switched or perm. live (depending which fuse slot you use) and you feed the wire out to whichever device you want to power.

Thanks for the replies. In principle I'm happy wiring something up but I like to be 100% with vehicle electrics.

I'm tempted to try the blade or spur approach as it seems straight forward. If however I wanted to wire it up correctly behind the fusebox then I assume I would need to undo the fusebox, wire my positive in and then simply use a regular fuse on the consumer side.

Does it matter if I use the mini blade fuses over the regular blade ones? I have found out that I have a row of mini blades which are all switched 12v. On the above picture it is the 2nd row of fuse terminals from the top.

I'm tempted to try the blade or spur approach as it seems straight forward. If however I wanted to wire it up correctly behind the fusebox then I assume I would need to undo the fusebox, wire my positive in and then simply use a regular fuse on the consumer side.

Yes, thats just what I did with mine.

Does it matter if I use the mini blade fuses over the regular blade ones? I have found out that I have a row of mini blades which are all switched 12v. On the above picture it is the 2nd row of fuse terminals from the top.

Depends on the power you intend to draw from the car. I use the mini-fuses to power my 2 devices with 10 amp fuses.

Here's how I did it with my Scout - http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/162617-octavia-fl-scout-access-to-relays-fusebox/

Depends on the power you intend to draw from the car. I use the mini-fuses to power my 2 devices with 10 amp fuses.

I like the idea of using of using this 'repair wire', how much are they? Not sure I can bring myself to dismantling my new car though.. :S

I thought most phones/sat navs drew less than 1 amp so with 10 amp fuses are you actually getting any protection!????