Oil Breather Pipe Part Numbers

[SP-1]

Hi All,

Have searched the forum and can't find any posts regarding this,

I've got a split breather hose on my MK1 Octavia vRS. I've made a temporary repair, using a piece of copper pipe and a couple of jubilee clips. I want to replave it, however I've got to dig a bit to get access to it. I can't see the part number, and when I went to the local Skoda dealer, their diagrams on their computer system, were next to useless! (Their words not mine!) If I have to dig it out, I will, but ideally when I dig it out, I want to have the new one in my hand to replace it with.

It connects to the underside of the breather pipe that comes off the rocker cover, on the right hand side as you look at the engine from in front of the car, which is a sort of "V shaped thing. (If it's any help, the part number for that is: DE 06A 103 22 13H.) From there, it looks like it goes down to the lower part of the crank case.

I need to replace it, as when it splits I get a horrible smell of oil coming through the vents.

If there's a post on this subject could you please point me that way.

Thanks in advance

Richard

[Shroud]

I am looking to replace the very same pipe, having snapped it this morning whilst fitting a new silicon crankcase breather pipe. :S

Any help appreciated, also whether the car can be driven safely if i just tape the snapped lower pipe to the new crankcase breather?

[SP-1]

In case you're still not sure, look at this thread. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/176282-viper-performance-breather-pipe/

If you scroll down to the last picture, in the first post, where the red pipe is connected to the enging, where the jubilee clip is on the bottom right, near the plastc cover retaining screw, the pipe I'm needing the number for, or alternative replacement part for is connected there!

I hope I'm not just confusing the issue..

[Shroud]

This should help.

The part i need is as per this listing and there is a good diagram too, that shows the various hoses and connections.

Sad that you said Skoda didn't seem to have access to this type of info.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-GOLF-BORA-MK4-LEON-1-8T-20VT-PCV-LOWER-BREATHER-PIPE-/160506161999?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item255ee9ab4f

[SP-1]

Hi Shroud,

Thanks for that, I had scanned ebay, but obviously didn't use the right keywords!!

I wish I knew how to insert the diagram from ebay onto this post, so anyone searching in future could save themselves a lot of effort.

Maybe some who knows how could post this link for us??

Thanks again

Richard

[tarmacsurfer]

[SP-1]

That's the one! Part number 2 is the one I need.

Better than the Skoda dealers info. Mind you as it's nearly 10 years old, they probably don't care any more about it!!

Thanks tarmacsurfer, hopefully this thread will be of use to someone else in future.

[SP-1]

Well I did it!!!

Man alive, talk about try your patience.

I bought the part from ebay, and set to work.

First of all, to remove the old one was a bit of a *******! Most of it snapped off in my hand as I was digging my way into it. But the "T" piece (number 11 in the pic) is a complete pain in the ass to remove. Skoda obviously connect it before the engine goes in the car. They use those "once only" clip/clasp things that you have you bend and twist to release, which is handy in the next to no space you have to work in.

I did find it slightly easier when I removed a metal plate that held the dipstick sleeve (which was broken), and the air con pipes, plus disconnect some air lines. This gave me a bit (but not a lot) of room to work.

Once I got all the bits out, it was almost as hard to thread the new bit in. I had the foresight to but some stainless jubilee clips to replace the original ones. With the pipe comes an adaptor to join it at the top beside the rocker cover. Also in the "T" piece (no 11 in pic) there is some sort of one way valve I chose to retain.

When reassembling all the bits, I noticed an electrical connector had come off, or so I thought. But the effort I had to go too, to reconnect it, I wonder if it was off in the first place. There's some sort of electric motor or solenoid right beside the dipstick tube, but can't find any reference to it in the Haynes manual. Any ideas anyone??

Anyways, when I'd put it all back together, I noticed the engine ran a bit smoother from cold than it did before, which is nice!

[tarmacsurfer]

Nice one SP-1 I think thesolinoid you refer too is the N249 valve. I had buy a new dipstick tube after replacing a breather hose under the inlet manifold, they seem to be made of cheese!

Edited 2 December, 2010 by tarmacsurfer

[JohnBoyMinster]

Well I did it!!!

Man alive, talk about try your patience.

I bought the part from ebay, and set to work.

First of all, to remove the old one was a bit of a *******! Most of it snapped off in my hand as I was digging my way into it. But the "T" piece (number 11 in the pic) is a complete pain in the ass to remove. Skoda obviously connect it before the engine goes in the car. They use those "once only" clip/clasp things that you have you bend and twist to release, which is handy in the next to no space you have to work in.

I did find it slightly easier when I removed a metal plate that held the dipstick sleeve (which was broken), and the air con pipes, plus disconnect some air lines. This gave me a bit (but not a lot) of room to work.

Once I got all the bits out, it was almost as hard to thread the new bit in. I had the foresight to but some stainless jubilee clips to replace the original ones. With the pipe comes an adaptor to join it at the top beside the rocker cover. Also in the "T" piece (no 11 in pic) there is some sort of one way valve I chose to retain.

When reassembling all the bits, I noticed an electrical connector had come off, or so I thought. But the effort I had to go too, to reconnect it, I wonder if it was off in the first place. There's some sort of electric motor or solenoid right beside the dipstick tube, but can't find any reference to it in the Haynes manual. Any ideas anyone??

Anyways, when I'd put it all back together, I noticed the engine ran a bit smoother from cold than it did before, which is nice!

Jeeeeesus! Mine will be going to the garage for my split breather to be done after reading this!!!

Edited 1 December, 2010 by JohnBoyMinster

[Guest westallc]

best bet is to remove them all and just run a single 19mm oil resistant hose this will mean no problems again

[JohnBoyMinster]

I like all this talk you have westall about removing things and simplifying, vac lines, breather pipes and such. Very muchly interests me. Think I need to start getting my hands dirty.

[Shroud]

Well I did it!!!

Anyways, when I'd put it all back together, I noticed the engine ran a bit smoother from cold than it did before, which is nice!

Well done. I haven't done mine yet. I've got the silicon hose, but still waiting on some stainless jubilee clips. Not looking forward to it TBH, and am unlikely to try for a few more days yet. Interestingly, i'm running the car at present with just the old snapped lower pipe pushed into the upper breather without the metal connector piece, and the car still seems to run ok. :yes:

[Bodge]

Sorry I didn't spot this thread earlier because I had all the info on that pipe to hand strangely! Part number should be 06A 103 213 BG, but the last two revison letters may be different. They normally cost about £35 from a dealer.

Oh and JohnBoy, you don't need to take it to a garage! They'll probably just break stuff anyway! It's not hard, it's just a little bit fiddly. I'm eternally fiddling with the breather system, so I've replaced everything a few times!

[VRS Mike]

I got lucky when changing mine as the one use clip came off straight away. Took me about 15 mins Didn't solve my MAF issue though

[Guest westallc]

I like all this talk you have westall about removing things and simplifying, vac lines, breather pipes and such. Very muchly interests me. Think I need to start getting my hands dirty.

come round the m25 to wokingham i will help you do it

you will need 2 metre of 3 mm vac hose

2 metres 0f 19mm oil hose with 19 t piece

if you want to remove the secondary air system aswell you will need the blanking plate from forge

new gasket for inlet manni as i take it off

1 litre coolant

1 330ohm resistor and that way you can

remove secodary air

n249 bypass

etc etc etc

cleans it all up lots and lots

[JohnBoyMinster]

Thanks! Will take you up on that offer, as soon as the weather clears up and i can get off my drive!

[SP-1]

I got lucky when changing mine as the one use clip came off straight away. Took me about 15 mins Didn't solve my MAF issue though

You lucky lucky b@stard with the clips! Also, you must have extremely small hands and bendy wrists!

Tarmacsurfer, how much was the dipstick tube? Also, how hard is it to fit??

[SNH]

Nice one SP-1 I think thesolinoid you refer too is the N249 valve. I had buy a new dipstick tube after replacing a breather hose under the inlet manifold, they seem to be made of cheese!

i've just had to change pipe 4 in that diagram and noticed my dipstick tube is broke

found a few dipstick tubes on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170517312290&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170547120755&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

anyone used one of these? are they any good?

will eventually be getting rid of the s***y hoses and replacing with a catch can and some silicone hose

[VRS Mike]

You lucky lucky b@stard with the clips! Also, you must have extremely small hands and bendy wrists!

Tarmacsurfer, how much was the dipstick tube? Also, how hard is it to fit??

nope I've got big hands. Just got lucky. it could have been a right bugger.

[tarmacsurfer]

i've just had to change pipe 4 in that diagram and noticed my dipstick tube is broke

found a few dipstick tubes on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170517312290&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170547120755&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

anyone used one of these? are they any good?

will eventually be getting rid of the s***y hoses and replacing with a catch can and some silicone hose

I bought the first one...the second one is not for the AUQ engine...dead easy to fit. Remove the the plate that holds the N249 gubins away from the inlet (two nuts hold on the pipework off the secondary air pump, and two allen head nuts) then pull the old dipstick guide away...it will break! Get some pliers around the base and pull up. then just clean the old crappy bits away and then push on the new one :-)

[SNH]

I bought the first one...the second one is not for the AUQ engine...dead easy to fit. Remove the the plate that holds the N249 gubins away from the inlet (two nuts hold on the pipework off the secondary air pump, and two allen head nuts) then pull the old dipstick guide away...it will break! Get some pliers around the base and pull up. then just clean the old crappy bits away and then push on the new one :-)

nice one mate. had the plate off today to remove the split pipe and noticed it broke at the bottom. got no secondary air system and have by passed the n249, n112 etc so not many pipes to get in the way

Edited 2 December, 2010 by sivrs

[tarmacsurfer]

nice one mate. had the plate off today to remove the split pipe and noticed it broke at the bottom. got no secondary air system and have by passed the n249, n112 etc so not many pipes to get in the way

Yeah I think this will be my next job....when it warms up a bit!

[SP-1]

I bought the first one...the second one is not for the AUQ engine...dead easy to fit. Remove the the plate that holds the N249 gubins away from the inlet (two nuts hold on the pipework off the secondary air pump, and two allen head nuts) then pull the old dipstick guide away...it will break! Get some pliers around the base and pull up. then just clean the old crappy bits away and then push on the new one :-)

Yep I agree, bought the first one, it fits vRS motors. The bit that was left on mine was a bit of a sod to remove, so from underneath, after removing the splash guard, I got a long screwdriver, and a hammer, and gently tapped it up. That way avoiding crushing the top with pliers and loosing bits into the sump.

Here is a handy link to another related thread on the distick stuff:

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/157100-dipstick-tube-confusion/page__p__1940304__fromsearch__1entry1940304

[SNH]

changed it today and used a screw driver from the bottom to prise it up as the plier route was causing it to break